Still won't start

[Whitespy]

I got the plug out of the bottom of the carburater and there is a steady stream of gas for 30 seconds.
I got a sparkplug with a 3/16" gap and have a good spark.
Still won't start. I don't have much more hair to pull out.

 

[Anonymous-0]

Might try pull starting the tractor. I had a starter once that grounded when turning over, which ultimately killed the spark to the dist. If you pull start it you either have bad compression or grounded out starter.

 

[Bruce (VA)]

When you ask a question here, it’s always important to tell us:

1. The model of your tractor (2N, 9N, 8N, NAA, etc).

2. If it is 6v or 12v.

3. If it’s an N, if the distributor is on the front or side of the engine.

4. If it has any major parts that are not OEM, such as electronic ignition, an in-line fuel filter, a Zenith carb, an 8v battery, a side coil on a front distributor, etc.

Troubleshooting is different depending on the model of the tractor, voltage, ignition system & distributor placement & the absence of OEM parts.

And, even if you told us that yesterday, remember that you’re dealing w/ a bunch of guys w/ CRS.
50 Tips

 

[Dell (WA)]

Whitey......ennytime you have starting issues, change yer sparkies, NO ARGUE!!!

Recommend AutoLite 437's gapped 0.025". Don't throw yer FLOODED sparkies away, clean'n'dry them one-atta-time in HOT running engine and save'um fer the next time. (and there will be a next time)

Iff'n that don't start'um, time to do the dreaded compression test. Ford specs: 90psi min (dry) You may have "stuck rings" which won't compress ennythang. Compression gauge $20 (cheap) Un-necessary engine rebuild, $1500 (not cheap) ......Dell the cheap

 

[Whitespy]

Sorry Bruce, I forgot. 2N, Front mount, 6volt, and an in-line filter.

 

[Whitespy]

Dell, I will put another set of plugs in and give it a compression test. Thanks.

 

[Bruce (VA)]

First, as Dell said, replace the plugs. If you flooded it, they're fouled & it will be it next to impossible to start. You don't need to toss them; heat the tips for a few seconds w/ a propane torch to burn off the invisible spark-robbing deposits from today's additive filled gasoline........or wash them in lacquer thinner.

Next, make sure you have a fully charged battery. You need that to turn the starter as well as provide enough voltage to fire the plugs.

If that doesn't work, jump it (see tip # 43) or pull start it.

While each N has it's own starting sequence, none of them will start well by just yanking out the choke rod & holding it out for 5 or 10 seconds while the engine cranks. This is an updraft carb w/ a gravity fuel system; it is by it's very nature subject to flooding. Too much choke makes it happen.

Try this:

Key on, gas on 2 full turns, clutch in, 3/4 throttle, press the starter button. Let it crank for at least 3 - 4 seconds before you pull the choke rod. Then, don't hold it out for more than 2 or 3 seconds.



If you are still having problems, remove the breather hose & try starting fluid or propane in the carb.

Lastly, it could be a compression problem. If you don't know how to do a compression check, just ask.
50 Tips

 

[lha]

Dell is right,so is Bruce.Mine refused to start last week,as I didn't follow my usual procedure,which is to crank,key off and pop the choke quickly,just to get a little rich mix in the cylinders.I then turn the key on and it always starts,with the throttle about 3 clicks out,that's one of the things that makes all Ns act a little differently.The throttle on one machine will react to 1st or 2nd click,on others 1/4 throttle is required to start increasing speed.When mine didn't start,I remembered Dell's admonition"Replace the sparkies DON'T ARGUE".---lha

 

[jclus]

Is firing order correct? 1-2-4-3?