Stroking Da M Engine.

LarryM

Member
Stroking da M Engine - Crankshafts that is. This question may very well be totally absurd. So I have an C-281 I want to build up and I have enough parts to literally put it togther as a 281 cid with fire craters. Not enough power. Being a highly creative person I started toying with the idea of an offset grind and then using custom rods and so on. And then I pulled some rods out of the parts pile that are almost identical to an M but are 9.5" on center instead of 10" on center. I went Hmmmmmmm. From what I have been told an M engine can use the stock rods on a 6" stroke. What I am wondering is what would interfere with the rotating assembly if you went to 6.25" on the stroke? I know the block would hit. What about the cam? I am wondering if it is possible to grind enough away to make it work. I could build a 334 cid engine for the cost of the stroked crankshaft. Has anyone done this? I would have to make custom wrist pins bushings in the lathe but the rods would fit the stroked crank beautifully. I could do some things to make it work like stroking it to 6.15 and then offsetting the wrist pin bushings .050" and then taking another .050" off the top of the pistons where ever they would touch the head. Anyway I am always curious to see if anyone has done it. Why not just bore it out? Just curious to see what is possible. Anyone with a blank check can build horsepower. To build a 334 cid enigne for less than $2000 (not counting the opportunity cost on the existing engine) appeals to me more in the realm of the possible than the affordable. Looking forward to your comments.
 
As soon as I walked away from the computer I said to myself "There is an inaccuracy in your post" Please ignore the part about shaving the top of the pistons. If I stroke it less than 6.25" with a 9.5" on center rod then the pistons would not be high enough. Brain fart on my part. I could offset the wrist pins upward by .100" and then a stroke of 6.15" would be right on.
 
he used to be on here all the time and made a lot of sense until he got going then he got your money and wouldn't talk to the folks he was supose to be working for that were waiting long after the due date set by him. lot of complaints about shoddy work also after that. you're only as good as your reputation
 
well, mark us, those days are behind us. whats ur name puller? even things up by not hiding behind a screen name. we had a few glitches there early, but, i didnt walk away. got rid of bad rubbish that blew in n out of the doors,,, seems to me, u need to talk to me, if u got a problem, or just sit back in ur easy chair, n watch n behave. tell me, why is it, that, instead of me, truly enjoying a website, patronizing it, everyday, is not possible, by unforgiving people. when i come here, i read...... I experieince, I learn, and i have educated. Life, educated me just a bit more than i wanted, but, i didnt walk away.
 
yes. and yes. stock rod shortened up to use stock 450 pistons. cheap to make, but u need cnc to build a good jig to hold, and weld the rodz. chads
 
like i said he used to make a lot of sense now he just uses a lot of needless commas. if you want something done right go to someone who does just that without senseless nonsense on here.

it does not make any difference who i am because i'm not on here telling good folks that i know what you evidently do not.

a good motor man does not need to be on here trying to make people believe he knows something, his work does his talking for him. where's your people that are bragging on you Chad's?





I'm waiting!
 
WOW!!! My post turned into a reality TV show!! I just wanted to know if it was possible to stoke an M engine to 6.25" and still be able to use the original rods. I understand this would require removing material from the block however I was wondering if it would interfere with the cam or other parts of the engine.
 
Answer you question, yes. up to probably 7.25 + - . Its a pain in the a$$ to go past 7" 7.5" Sucks and youd better know what you are doing. If you are going to stroke a crank, stroke a crank. But better yet, call a professional and pay him to do it. There are two who frequent this site who know alot more than me you and the rest of the group.
 
markus, if u love bandwagons, then build one. If u cant be an athelete, please be an athletic supporter! lol. stay out of the shop n go to a pull and watch my latest builds that i have succesfully built. if those pullers who want to tell em who built it, then let em speak. but, to those who did stick by me, i thank you all. im glad u guys won ur points championships, the first year out. its not me who makes em win, its you. Im doing a Super M now that will rock your world. chads
 
you sir are not going to do anything that will rock anyones world. what a stupid post name some names that are setting the pulling world on fire, go ahead name some names. rock our world. do you see any of the major engine builders on here bragging like you? no because they don't have to others do it for them. if the other builders were talked about like you are talked about there would be lots of folks on here defending them. get a life. please
 
Regardless of the drama, welding stock rods is a bad idea. my dad talked to a welding shop owner who said cast iron rods do not weld very well and might break. The better choice is to do 7 inch stroke and find pistons that are the correct height. Then bush the rods to that piston pin size and grind the rods and block for clearance.
 
nothing wrong with a stock rod 7inch either. tell ur dad id show him a sample of a welded rod. its in the prep, n proceedure and new age welding that shows best results. still, the stock rod 7in can be done for 2500 or less! chad
 
markus, do you look in the mirror and say that to yourself? you will never do anything to set the world on fire..... wow man. i love that phrase you said too,,, dont do anything yourself..... UM, that is y u say shoddy work. since i restarted doing things myself, me, myself n I, in this shop, aint nothing shoddy about it. slow, maybe, but shoddy, no. save the fancy phrases, for guys who buys their parts rights, slaps their name on it n call it original. thats one of the experts you love on here. lmao. Ive set a farmall azz on fire more than once, more than twice, and if you wanna see it in person, then u breakout your checkbook n go see one. till then, i bet u got a list of builders on hand,,, at ur disposal. seems like it cause, that seems to be all u contribute here. pass out numbers n talk bout nonsence. I dont even watch football,,,, had to look up to see who was even playin this year,,,, but just so u know, Im routing for the team u dont like to win. Back to the numbers list,,, so u call em twice, maybe 3 times a week, like a dog in heat, probably never really buy anything, but ur in the know,,, ya know? anyways, lets even say, you did buy that big buck, and you pullin, and u meet up with one that waxes u to the wall,,,,,, who do u call when that happens? My point is, when its done right, and it comes from here, i dont get calls like that,, cause where we stand, were on top looking down. from the smallest anthill,,, but we climbing,,,,, out of the pits of he11 and back in your face. markus. whats ur name puller? cause you already KNOW MINE!
 
If you would publicly list of proven stolen parts that are here in the shop, I sincerely request that you contact the sherriff in my county and u file theft on it. Many, have entrusted me to hold onto their worldly belongings, and asked me to even work on said belongings with trust, understanding, but, they aint got no money. yet, somehow, their projects, are becomming a reality. now, if you have something here that i stole, i should be expecting a visit from the 5.0 in the next,,, say 48hours???? cause, if i dont get a visit, or a contact from either you, or the sherriff over your property in which you say im a thief, the very next time, benthere,,, you post this on a site, without said proof, im gonna make it rain lawyers. chad
 
sir, weld rods if you want. NOTE: anyone thinking IH use cast iron in rods better learn how to identify cast versus forged. i put together many engine w/welded rod, want a cheap stroker, weld/stroke crank 7.25" make rod journal stock farmall H, use bb chevy keith black pistons, weld H rod bottom to bb chevy6 stock forged rods, clearance grind cam/block/notch bottom of cylinder throw sleeves away & bore block, 411 c.i.d., cheap ran mine 2000 rpm + didn't fail till i boosted compression up over 375 cranking psi and fuel detonated running 116 octane while pulling, lost piston next pull, that welded rod went through block twice, bent frame rail 2", bent rod, but never broke. now i've been out of pulling 10 yrs, but back then Keith Merfeld in Iowa would do your crank rods for under $1000.
thats a puller talking up machinist, note: that welded crack only required straightened .010/.010 regrind to go back in service
 
if u build one of them motors, just as u described,,, it will make good power for the dollar spent. no doubt, that 375psi will do damage over time. I keep em 300 psi and less. One of em held an easy 108hp all day long. she never offered to overheat, oil pressure held steady, and that was on 93octane pump gas with no hi perf bolt ons of any kind. i think she would plow n work as good as stock. that was at the low comp setup too. i grew up in a pulling club that was filled with merfeld motors. power, was never a problem with em. but, ud have to see one upclose to truly understand a few details that really helped them live longer.
 
Wow all of the anger over a little old motor.Well Larry I have found that dreaming up different rod & piston combos,shaving pistons etc. is half the fun of doing this stuff!There are many ways to get a motor to run.I can tell you from experience that you will have to grind the cam on a 6 in. stroke.I even once had to touch the cam on a 5 3/4 stroke.Making stroker motors is alot of work.I would not have rods welded,they will break at some point,had it happen,its not pretty.Murphys make a great rod.Money well spent.
 
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