Stuck clutch?

I can shift the pto and the range gears c 123 when stoppedon my yanmar 1810 d without the clutch pushed in no grinding. Is this a good indication m my clutch is stuck?
 
No, when a clutch is stuck it is stuck engaged. If I am understanding I think your symptoms are just common with the power shift.

If your clutch is stuck your tractor will not stop when you push the clutch in. Does yours stop?
 
It does not slows a little but does not stop. With the clutch locked down and you put it in reverse it will try to move but doesn't. As soon As you release clutch from the hold down lever it takes off
 
Maybe the linkage needs adjusting. Should have 9/16 to 5/8" or so free play at top of pedal. Do you have that?

Maybe you are already, but the clutch should be pushed all the way down for full release.
 
Messed with it tonight. I dont believe the clutch is stuck. With it depressed all the way and shifter placed from n up to 1 you can feel the pressure go to the wheels but won't quite turn them and when you pick up on clutch pedal very little it takes off. Why would the clutch not come all the way up? You have to put your heal behind it and pull it up away from the safety switch all the way to the top
 
You probably at least have a broken return spring, which is probably inside the bell housing and will require a split unless it is external or you can install one externally.Also sounds like badly out of adjustment or bad pressure plate. You really need to research how clutch works and how/why the adjustment.
 
Tore it apart last weekend. Throw out bearing shot spring unhooked pressure plate missing fingers. Also need drop box gears. Which models share the same gears as my 1810d?
 
"Which models share the same gears as my 1810d?"

Hard to know. Factory Parts manuals (and to a smaller extent Service manuals) include some dimensions but are in Japanese for grey models. And Yanmar occasionally makes a running change of a part on the same model without changing the manuals.

Wear parts, I'd order from Hoye. Non-wear, I'd look for your model in a salvage yard. Good luck.
 
Got my clutch all fixed up and everything put Back together. It works great. Unfortunately I don't have any hydraulic pressure now. No lift on three point and nothing to loader. Fearing the worst. Not really thinking I unhooked the hoses to the loader and left them dangle while I pulled tractor into garage. Did I destroy my pump? I filled it up with 303 equivalent fluid from tsc also.
 
Follow the hydraulic lines to the pump located on the right hand side of the engine toward the front. Remove the hydraulic lines, bolts from pump to engine and pull the pump out. Don't know what kind of coupler the 1810 has but it will become evident when you pull the pump.
 
Thanks Winston. Have one more ? When I put tractor back together I have one wire I can't figure out where it goes. It's in the wiring harness that runs up to the horn and headlights and is long enough to connect somewhere between oil filter and radiator.
 
Here is a picture of the wire

36244_c1a58f20904f5b621e8927e04f477303.jpeg
 
I think the oil light sensor is in that area. Does it have a wire hooked to it or have you checked it to assure it is working? All gauges and warning lights working?
 
Dads having problems removing the nut on the end of the pump shaft. He says it just turns on the shaft when he tries to loosen it. I haven't been over there to see it in person but have read of this problem on Google. Any suggestions?
 
If the nut spins on the shaft but won't come off the threads are stripped on either nut, shaft, or both. Might try pulling on the nut while turning. Maybe with vice grips or similiar. If that doesn't work you might have to use a dremel tool or similar to cut the nut for removal.
 
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