stuck steering wheel.

rgvnaa

Member
Hello, i have a 53 jubilee, i want to paint the dash, i have to remove the steering wheel but it's stuck on pretty good, the top nut will unscrew but the wheel does not buge, i tried hitting it off but did not work, what would be the best way to remove the steering wheel. thanks
 
Soak threads with WD-40 for awhile. Then pull up on steering wheel while someone else taps the steering wheel from underneath. I usually use a 3 lb hammer and alternately tap each spoke from underneath. Works for me about 90% of the time.

Brian
 
(quoted from post at 13:43:11 11/10/11) Soak threads with WD-40 for awhile. Then pull up on steering wheel while someone else taps the steering wheel from underneath. I usually use a 3 lb hammer and alternately tap each spoke from underneath. Works for me about 90% of the time.

Brian

WD-40 is not a penetrating oil, it is a protectant against water intrusion. If it is already rusted, WD-40 is not what you want to use. You should use a penetrating oil designed to get into and loosen the rust and corrosion, like PB Blaster or Kroil, or even a homemade mixture of ATF and diesel fuel.

After soaking it for a couple of days with the penetrating oil (reapplying several times a day during the wait), loosen the nut, but leave it on the threads of the steering shaft, at least a couple of full threads on. Then grab the steering wheel with both hands at the 3:00 and 9:00 positions, and rock the wheel back and forth, left to right while pulling as hard as you can. When it does finally break loose, the nut still being on there will save you from going backwards off the tractor.
 
I'd soak hub with PB Blaster. Loosen the nut about 1/4 inch, then pull up on steering wheel, you can do this alone by using your legs and one hand, tap downwards on the nut. It should pop or at least come up the 1/4 inch. I usually use a hand held sledge hammer (about 3 lbs too). Just don't get crazy wacking the nut.
 
When they're really stuck I get out the oxy/ace rig and use a redbud tip to heat the steering wheel hub.
 
Remove the steering wheel nut and replace it with a common hex nut (half nut if you can find one). Thread the nud several threads past the end of the shaft but leave it several threads above the surface of the wheel. The nut serves to chase the threads after you have removed the wheel and to prevent you from falling off of the tractor when the wheel lets go.

Stand on the footboards and pull up on the wheel with both hands while a helper strikes the exposed end of the steering shaft with a BRASS hammer.

Obviously, you will choose a helper who will not hit you in the face with his back swing.

Dean
 
if you use a puller, get the style that has the wide flap blades like a tie rod puller.. less chance to deform the wheel hub, also they don't reach too deep.

if you do alot of them, you can make a puller out of an old steering wheel, and bend the arms down into hooks.. Hobo I believe made one.. and I copied his. slicker n snot..

soundguy
 
Here is my system---PB Blaster first with several app's then got good 1/2 inch rope wraped the spokes as close to the hub as I could get making each rope leg same length positioned my coe along over the wheel at the same angle as the column. hook the rope loops, tighten the comea long loosen the nut and tapped the column. when it pop's loose loosen the nut. comes rigth off. Got to have the pressure as close to the hub the wiggle method the spokes flex you have very little presure at the hub.
 
Soaking the splines with a penetrant worked well for me then worked with a hammer and block of wood. I let it sit a day or two to soak in deep.

Larry
 
I've parted out about a dozen Ford tractors. Most of them had sat for years before I got them. I've never failed to remove a steering wheel using the Zane method, which is:
1. Loosen the acorn nut but do not remove it.
2. Stand on the running boards and hold the wheel at 3 o'clock and 9 o'clock.
3. Pull up with all your might, use arms and legs.
4. As you pull, rock back and forth, forward and back.
5. If it hasn't popped loose yet, turn the wheel 90 degrees and keep pulling.

Penetrating oil can only help this process. Heat on the hub can also help, but I've never had to resort to violence with a puller or hammer. Maybe someday....
 
I use a 3 jaw puller.I center punch the steering column for the point on the puller.Last one popped loose pretty easy and didn't ruin anything.

HTH

Vito
 
(quoted from post at 10:36:53 11/10/11) Hello, i have a 53 jubilee, i want to paint the dash, i have to remove the steering wheel but it's stuck on pretty good, the top nut will unscrew but the wheel does not buge, i tried hitting it off but did not work, what would be the best way to remove the steering wheel. thanks

If these ideas don't work, buy a hydraulic puller from HF. I got the biggest one they had. I got 250+ lb wheel weights off rusted bolts when nothing else
would budge them. I guarantee that you can apply enough force for
something to give. Hopefully, it's what you want.
 
yer lucky.

I've done 2 that were rusted to the splines.

both I had to cut the hub with a die grinder and split with a chissle, then use a needle file to 'fix' the wormshaft splines, and a thread repair file to 'fix' the top threads.

both shafts were saved, but both steering wheels were destroyed. one of the 2 had to be QUARTERED vs just split.. it was rusted that badly..

( naa and 740 )

and of couse I've had the ones that you remove the nut and the wheel just omes off in yer hands when the wind blows.. :) )

soundguy
 
I keep a couple of half nuts on hand for this reason but I do have a VERY good fastener supplier nearby.

Dean
 
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