Styled D Woes

Hi All,Recently got my tractor back together with new radiator (see link about that part ).
No leaks, was running great, and tractor had its first good long run since it was saved from a fence row in corona about fifteen or so years ago. Wasn"t able to run it very long before with the home built radiator prior owner had put in because it would overheat.
After a few runs of a couple hours each, it sat for a few days, when I tried to start it the other day engine would not turn over, left cylinder was full of water, open oil level test cock and white muck spewed out, cracked the threads on oil drain and about a gallon of water came out.
My first thought was that knowing the prior owner had had the engine apart to repair stuck valves from it sitting so long, he may not have properly torqued the head, and the head gasket probably failed after being ran at temp for the first time in 15 years, after pulling the head, I can"t see any obvious signs of a gasket failure from the water jackets to the cylinders...But, there is supposed to be lead washers under the head nuts if I"m not mistaken, there aren"t any.
Would that in itself be the reason for the leakage? I don"t see any obvious cracks in the head, or in the cylinders, So I have a couple questions I hope someone can help me with...
1. What would be the procedure for determining how the water got into the cylinders / crankcase ? I was planning on having the head magnifluxed, I can have local shop do that, I was dreading even thinking about pulling the block off, but will that be necessary as well ??

2.I needed to pull the fan assembly off to pull the head, the threaded end of the fan shaft broke off, and the fan disks and generator drive pulley all came off in pieces, so besides everything else, I now have to replace the fan shaft and related parts, How do you get the fan shaft off ?
My JD service manual says to remove governor housing but it doesn"t detail anything else, already have enough to deal with, don"t want to break anything else.i have seen many posts over the years about water in the oil, head gasket problems ,ect, but haven"t really saw much about what was actually done to fix the problem. I have a lot of time and money invested in this old tractor already, it"s a keeper and I intend on getting it right, although at this pace it may take a while.
Also, parts manual for the D shows 18 lead washers are supposed to be used, but with 9 head studs, where do they all go ? Double stacked ? Learning as I go, Thanks for any help with this..Tom
Styled D Radiator Replacement
 
The lead washers are only used as a lubricant when your cylinder head bolts are torqued. will not cause your water issue in the cylinder. Just remove the 3 bolts that attach the fanshaft to remove. You will need to remove the gov. housing when installing your replacement shaft as you will need to adjust the clearance between the fan gear and gov. gear.
 
Don't know much about 'D's', but I suspect a crack in the cylinder wall(s). Had a similar scenario with my 60 - new sleeves (to standard) solved the problem - spendy. HTH
 
Your $$$$$$ your Tractor.

I always follow the below practice:

All threaded Cap Screws and or Studs that come in contact with the medium ( water / Ant-freeze) in the cooling Jacket have threads coated in a thread sealant,LOCTITE product as per picture:

All threaded Cap Screws and or Studs that enter blind threaded bores in the head that are associated with the exhaust manifold have threads coated in a Loctite High Temperature anti-size compound:

25% + of Torque can easily be lost due to friction ......I always use the Lead washers between the Boss of the head and the Nuts:

When attaching the RAD ASSEMBLY to the Tractor, I always make a DRY RUN. That is, the Rad assembly is mounted on the Tractor with NO GASKETS or Sealing adhesives until I?m sure I have the assembly procedure perfected.

Bob.....Owner of various colored Tractors....

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