Super A Starting Issues, Cont.

[Mark (PA)]

Hello again, this is a continuation from about a week and a half ago as I was mowing hay with my sickle bar mower the tractor started to spit and sputter and eventually died not to be restarted. Initailly I checked the fuel and pulled the drain and the carb and it ran OK so I then started looking on the electrical end.

I bought a new batter yesterday and the tractor started, only running on about 2 cylinders though. I also have a new coil. I cleaned the points.

I am contemplating the next move. I am considering the following and would like some advice from the "pro"s" if possible!

I was thinking of replacing the points and condensor, I saw on this website you can buy a new ignition system that replaces them. has anyone tried that? Just curious if it was worth it.

Next I did find that the wire from the coil to the cap (the center wire) has one end that had a cracked housing. Like the metal had a crack where they had the center wire bent over against it for contact. I took the connector off and was looking at the center wire and I couldn"t even find one... Which I thought was odd although I assume they are quite a small wire. I am wondering if mine possibly burnt up or broke etc... Is this possible?

So I am going to buy a set of plug wires.

I also thought of pulling the carb off and soaking it for awhile.

what do you guys think? Am I making sense with trying to find this issue or no? Please point me in the correct direction if not.

Thanks! Mark

 

[Mark(PA)]

I forgot to add at the top there where I say it "ran" ok. I mean the gas seemed to run out of the carb drain ok. The tractor does not run correctly. Thanks again.

 

[rustyfarmall]

Removing the carb and soaking it will not accomplish anything. I don't think you have carb problems. If you can't find the center wire in the coil wire, the plug wires are probably of the graphite impregnated cotton material which is not correct for your tractor to start with. You're on the right track to order new copper core wires.

 

[Mark (PA)]

Rusty, I believe you are correct. I didn't know they made such a plug wire but that does in fact appear to be the case as there was what I now know is graphite on cotton in the center. Thanks! great info.

 

[rustyfarmall]

The graphite core wires were developed for use on cars and such to aid in suppressing the static generated from the ignition system which would create interference with the car radio as well as other communications systems. You will find that type of wire on just about every car and truck built since sometime in the '50s. They will work OK on most tractors while still in good condition, but the copper core or stainless core wires work much better. I have seen copper core wires with the rubber insulation rotted completely off and still functioning just fine.

 

[John T]

Mark, Pertronix makes electronic ignition units to replace the points and condensor and they are capable of producing more spark energy, but I dont see that as your problem and anything you need to rush out n buy or else the sky is gonna fall lol.

Id check the points gap and re gap if necessary. If they look pretty good but only gray oxide coated I would non abrasively clean/buff/polish and try her, but if they are badly burned or pitted or all carboned up, I would replace them and the condensor.

If shes not hitting on all cylinders that may only be a plug or plug wire problem unless those cylinders are bad or way low on compression. IF YOU HAVENT ALREADY I WOULD TRY A NEW SET OF PLUGS FIRST THING.

Next if theres any cracks or carbon traces or chips etc anywhere in the distributor cap Id replace it and the rotor in a heartbeat. Not hard or expensive either. A carbon trace or crack can be diverting the spark away from those missing cylinders !!!!!!!!!!!

Finally I do NOT recommend carbon core suppressor plug wires on old tractors, use wire core wires. You dont wanan waste any spark energy in the form of heat cuz of resistive wires. Its better to expend all of it across the spark plugs gap to better ignite the fuel.

I will let the IHC guys address any fuel or carb issues.

John T

 

[Anonymous-0]

sounds just like a condenser as i had a new one fail after just a few hrs. on the recent three day tractor ride a electronic system failed that was new also. in this day you never know what new parts can fail. thats why i still put my money on a mag

 

[Mark (PA)]

Hi John The plugs are brand new but I am going to have to switch the wires. I also believe I will replace the Cap, rotor, condensor and points. The points in the tractor are not what I am used to seeing which makes me think they may be bad. I am used to two relatively smooth contact points. When I looked at this the other day on the points the one has what appears to be a large piece of the other on it? I thought this was something to make them mesh properly but I never knew of that to be the case. SO I am thinking my points are bad as well.

I also thought of buying the petronix kit. Although for $10 you can replace most of the internals of the old system and the petronix kit was around $40 + shipping... so... We'll see I guess. I figured if someone was using one out there and could advise if they are worth it.

Lastly on those points... What do you make of that? Could a piece get burnt on to one side from the other point? Its almost like it has a key and keyway on it but I never knew that to be like that etc.

 

[John T]

Mark, If my old brain serves me correct (NO Warranty) I think I have seen what are called vented points that had 2 recessed crossed x grooves at 90 degrees. Theoretically if the condensor is sized properly I believe the potential build up deposits on one side of the points should get transferred back over to the other side when the points break open (coil energy arcs) versus when they close (condensor energy gets discarged). If theres a big pit/hole on one side and a crater built up on the other side, I believe thats an improper sized condensor.

A new set of points n condensor plus cap n rotor ought to fix her we think

let us know

PS if you go with an elec switch (pertronix) you get more bang for the buck if you also match it with a high energy coil versus the stock coil

John T