My dad has a super h that he has. he has recently told me that he wants to pull in some classic pulls with the grand kids. He wants to know how big cubic inches can u make it. He wants to take it to the max. Running dry block is no problem and stroking it. Tell me how and what parts thanks
 
This is coming from a puller, please dont butcher a good super H. Tell him to sell it to a collector and go buy an M that is already built for pulling for a dime a dozen. Ive seen good original super H go for $5000 around here in Indiana. He will have more weight class options with an M and easier to find motor parts.
 
Easier also means cheaper to build. If you are pulling in "classic" classes don't be expecting to pull that hopped up H anyhow. I would be the first to protest. Classic classes around here mean stock motor, stock drawbar, and stock RPM's.
 

If you have a 54 super h dont mess it up. If you have a 53 dont worry about it.IF YOU WANT TO BUY SOME 53 H FOR 5000 CALL 618 664 2732 AND TELL ME HOW MANY YOU WANT. Hs can be very competive up to 5500. I STOP AT 5000 BECUSE i worry about rear end and tranmission.
 
How can i tell what year it is? Iam not worried about being protested if you feal like you will have to protest a couple of 11 year old kids i guess go ahead
 
if it is a 54 or very late 53 it will have live hydros and battery under the seat. also look for cast dates on the engine and large cast parts if it has Z then it is a 54 Y is 53

Andrew
 
let the guy pull what he wants ,collector tractors are only good for guys who like to look and brag about how rare it is
 
If it is a 54 it will also have a square front end like a 300 int.A 53 super H looks like a regular H except seral tag will have SH prefix on tag.
 
I certainly would protest an 11 year old kid if "they" brought a bored and stoked Super H to pull in stock class!
 

You guys keep using the word "stock class". Do your rules specifically state how much compression, displacement, fuel, etc? Do you make tractors that were originally kerosene run on kero, or do you let them run gas? How about M&W kits, they aren't stock. What are you going to protest? You out there checking compression on every tractor? Pulling pans to check stroke? If I put a 0.125 over kit in the old farm tractor because it was wore out, are you going to bich and complain that I'm not stock?

If you have tire rules, MPH, RPM rules, and mfg replacement blocks, original frames, etc, you can quit your whining about what's stock.

You guys that are doing all the complaining over "stock", please post your rules so I can see what your "stock" class looks like.
 
is mandw kit made by they manufactor like ih jd case or ect i guess i am kind old fahsion but thought they word farm stock means they way it come from they factor i would like to know thanks and i am not whinng about acertain tractor or person or place
 

Charlie, no disrespect intended, but post your rules and show me where it defines "stock". Normally Stock means "stock appearing", tire, RPM, Ground speed and hitch restrictions that limit the value of HP.
 
(quoted from post at 10:01:31 09/06/09) I certainly would protest an 11 year old kid if "they" brought a bored and stoked Super H to pull in stock class!

sflem849, can you post your rules, I'd like to see what you would be protesting.
 
(quoted from post at 19:31:38 09/06/09)
(quoted from post at 10:01:31 09/06/09) I certainly would protest an 11 year old kid if "they" brought a bored and stoked Super H to pull in stock class!

sflem849, can you post your rules, I'd like to see what you would be protesting.

I just read the rules and you are correct. No where in the farm rules does it say stock bore and stoke. It is assumed that "stock" includes M&W Kits and normal overbores, but no major motor work.
As stated, it does say no cut tires and mandates tire sizes and rim type. No aluminum and stock RPM's, but that is about it.
Sounds like I am going to have to propose an amendment for the winter meeting. I think the smart way to do it would be to require XX% displacement from stock. IMO, farm if the class for working tractors and antique is for hot rods. Where are the stock tractors going to pull if the only difference between the two classes is cut tires and pressed steel?

BTW - In our club farm means stock and antique means hot rods w 20% over RPMs etc. We don't run a division thing like some of the stuff I see on the site.
 
so do"s that mean u are going to take the head off and mesure it? iam currently running a 560 now thats 350 cubic inches i can tell u now that u cant tell it is that big just by sound unless idle it below 1000 rpms
 
I didn't get it at first, but now I see you only have five posts. You never learn anything on this forum, you only get to hear how you are doing it wrong :wink:
I don't have any tips for you. The best tip I have is to call ChadS. He builds Farmall pulling motors and can sell you the parts, etc.
As for displacement. Our club will let you protest another tractor. Generally your tractor will be checked for the same infraction if you are protested. I feel it is only fair to pull a stock tractor in the stock (antique) class, if you want to pull "run what your brung" class go pull at the county fair and all the other no rules farm classes.
 
Eric, if the engine is done right, it can make an honest 70 hp and still plow, use pump gas, and have rebuild options for future enhancements or just a rebuild. Ive seen Super H's sell for well over 5 grand. The Super H puller in the classisied ads here on YT,,, in the photo ads,,, If I had the money, It would be here in Indiana with me! Dont care if something could be wrong with it. I doubt there is. JMHO. ChadS
 
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