TE20 Not Running

[CPD Sarge]

Got the TE20 from relative, it was running several years ago but he stored it for a long time and recently it would not start. When I got it home the wiring appeared to be in pretty bad shape so I rewired it using a diagram for the TO20 tractor. It has a Lucas generator and a D-R distributor and starter. Set the distributor to #1 cylinder TDC on compression stroke, new points, plugs, condensor, cap, rotor, set timing, new voltage regulator, ignition switch, two carburators, one Zenith, one Marvel, plugs produce good spark, blue/white spark will jump 3/8 of an inch from plug wire to ground but this tractor will not start. I have been working on this thing for 3 days now and cannot find the problem. I am probably too close to this and am failing to see something really obvious. Any and all suggestions to get this tractor started will be appreciated.

 

[gshadel]

Sarge,
I can only guess where to tell you to start looking, however, 1st thing to check is that you have the distributor timed to fire at the top of the compression stroke on #1, not the top of the exhaust stroke by accident. The engine timing marks on a TE is different than my TO, I think there is a TDC mark (notch) on the crank pulley on the TE that lines up with a notch on the gov. housing cover, but that may be hard to see with the radiator in place. The firing order is 1342. With your ignition ON, and your # 1 wire connected to a grounded spark plug, you should be able to crank the engine by hand, hold your thumb over the #1 cylinder plug hole to feel the compression stroke, and see your spark plug spark when you hit the top of your compression stroke on cylinder # 1 (in the front).

Pull the drain plug on the bottom of your carb & let gas run out into a small coffee can. The gas should pour out freely, not dribble, and fill a 1 pound coffee can in less than a minute or so. That will insure you have good fuel flow to the carb.

Make sure you don"t have mice nest, or other obstructions in the exhaust pipe, or in the air intake filter.... been known to happen to tractors that hae been sitting for a while.

If you are totally stumped, try running compression checks on each cylinder, should get ~80 PSI or better in each cylinder with the starter cranking the engine, all the plugs out, and throttle open full.

George

 

[john [mo]]

the only thing i want to add is that when you hold your finger over the spark plug hole the exhaust stroke can feel like the compression stroke. here is the way i learned years ago on locating compression stroke. remove spark plug and push a shop towel into the spark plug hole tightly. the shop towel with pop out only on the compression stroke.works every time. i learned about putting a distributor in 180 degrees out after exploding a muffler while cranking the engine.

 

[Bob (Aust)]

Father used to use a wine bottle cork in the plug hole, then a 1/4 inch dowel to find exact TDC.

What is wrong with using the timing marks as per the manual? I'm not familiar with the Continental engine.

If he has a good spark and timing is correct, the only other possibility has to be fuel?

 

[Jeff-oh]

I do not have my manual in front of me but I think your spark (if on the compression stroke) may be too late. I believe it should be set for 7 degrees before TDC. Again I do not have my manual here to check. The Shop service manual is very handy to have.

Jeff

 

[CPD Sarge]

With the dawn of a new day, I decided to go out and double check all the things you guys have suggested. I have been restoring Model A Fords for about 20 years now and thought I knew a lot about old 4 cylinders but this one really take the cake! A fellow Model A'er and I independently checked for TDC and agree we have actually found it. I have all the service manuals I could find on this tractor. The old girl must have lead a hard life. I assume that it started life as a TE20 as it has the Coventry radiator and the one piece steering box/transmission cover. The motor number is 32000. There is no line on the crank pulley to indicate TDC. The pulley may have been changed as there is a long shaft protruding from the center of it that was used to drive the pump for the front load attachment some time in the past. There are no punch marks or other markings on the flywheel or the housing under the starter motor. There is no inspection plate or observation hole in the flywheel housing. The muffler appears clear as I can feel pulses of air coming out of it as the engine cranks. I can feel stong suction as the engine cranks when I palce my hand over the throat of the carb. Gas readily runs out of the carb drain plug and out of the carb throat after cranking with the carb choked. The apparent bad news is that the cylinders show a compression of only 60 lbs cold and dry with the throttle wide open. I realize this is not the best but shouldn't the engine at least start but not have great power? The Model A's should have about 78 lbs but I have seen them run with 35. That's where I'm at with it this morning. Any other suggestions, please let me know and I will try them and keep you all apprized of the progress. Thanks for all your help, Sarge

 

[Jerry/MT]

Sounds like you have the requiste, FAT, BLUISH-WHITE SPARK so you have a leg up on solving the problem. Make sure that your timing and the firing order are correct and that you have adequate fuel flow. Remember the the timing mark is visible on the compression stroke AND the exhaust stroke so to determine the compression stroke hold your thumb over the #1 spark plug hold as you crank the engine and you'll feel the pressure build on the compression stroke. Stop cranking when you feel this and rotate the engine by hand to the correct timing mark (TE-20 = TDC). Then take the cap off the distributor and see what plug wire the rotor is pointing to. It should be pointing to the #1 plug terminal. If it's not, loosen the distributor and rotate so it points to the #1 terminal. If it's pointing to #1, put the cap back on and loosen the distributor, put a paper clip or a piece of wire in the #1 spark plug boot, turn the ignition on and hold the #1 plug wire near a good ground. Rotate the distributor back and forth until you hear the snap of the spark. At that point you are statically timed. You'll have to do it sevral times until you feel you have it right. When you do tighten the distributor down and try a start. When you get the start check the timing with a timing light and also the advance mechanism operation by reving the engine and noting the timing advancing with increased rpm.

 

[Anonymous-0]

on my te20 there is a hole to check timing,as you are looking at it from the front it will be on the right side,I could never find my timing marks took the housing off and still couldn't find them,never looked on the main pulley to check for marks,I never heard that before,I will check on mine.good luck

 

[CPD Sarge]

Just thought I'd thank you all for your input. I actually started from scratch and used all of your suggestions and the darn thing started. I'm not sure if it was just one thing wrong or a combination of things but the final result was I was able to drive it around the yard for the first time since bringing it home! I actually used the cork in the plug hole to find TDC. The first cork left a red mark on my forehead, the second one is somplace in the yard! Thanks again for all your help. Sarge