(quoted from post at 12:24:00 11/26/15)
20W50 is as heavy as you would want to use , the tapping may be due to a weak or broken valve spring or a slightly bent push rod .
(quoted from post at 01:01:13 11/27/15)
20W50 is fine to use , 15W40 is closer to the original grade . Much depends on the temperatures it will work in and the amount of wear in the engine . Finland is much colder than Australia so a lighter oil might be advisable if working in the cold . I use 20W50 because our summer temperature regularly reaches 40`C plus.
Look at the faces of the tappet arms ; where they contact the valve stems , often they have a groove in them from previous bad adjustment . This can cause excessive noise as well .
(quoted from post at 20:09:51 11/30/15) Have you tried a Stethoscope? (with Engine running)
Often, if there is a foreign noise, and the location of noise is obscured, a Stethoscope or a Long bladed screwdriver, placed against a pair of EAR muffs/hearing protectors, can assist you in pinpointing the location of concern.
(quoted from post at 20:26:58 12/02/15) As mentioned above, post war British engineering was concerned with operation, not 'estetics' I still can't spell. it is nearly 60 years old, but you did not do a complete rebuild did you?
It starts, runs, accomplishes what you ask it to do? Until the noise starts sounding dangerous, I dunno... Did you listen to other Standard petrol engines? Again, not recently rebuilt ones, but ones just like yours?
I rebuilt mine last year, and still has so many noises from so many directions, and with a vertical exhaust pipe, I need to wear ear plugs. I have Continentals that are quieter than most cars of that age. Just the way it goes.
And remember, as USAAF Lt. Murphy said in his law #4, 'the best way to break something is to fix something that ain't broke'.....
(quoted from post at 18:20:03 12/04/15) Your second picture..........with your finger tell us how deep the indent is in the rocker tip.....your best guess! .005/.010/.020/.030 deep?
(quoted from post at 19:46:12 12/04/15)(quoted from post at 18:20:03 12/04/15) Your second picture..........with your finger tell us how deep the indent is in the rocker tip.....your best guess! .005/.010/.020/.030 deep?
I think deep is .010-.015. Knocking problem? Grinding?
(quoted from post at 22:00:35 12/04/15)(quoted from post at 19:46:12 12/04/15)(quoted from post at 18:20:03 12/04/15) Your second picture..........with your finger tell us how deep the indent is in the rocker tip.....your best guess! .005/.010/.020/.030 deep?
I think deep is .010-.015. Knocking problem? Grinding?
You ain't going to like what I say but I suggest you take the head and rocker arms to a machine shop and have the valve guides and stuff checked and have the rocker arm pads ground and recontoured. The reason I say that is the pad on the rocker arm slides across the tip of the valve as it opens and closes it. With indentations like yours on the rocker arms, chances are it is pushing the valve its self back and forth since the rocker arm can no longer slide across the tip. Plus you can't set the valve clearances with the indentations like that.
(quoted from post at 08:06:43 12/09/15)(quoted from post at 22:00:35 12/04/15)(quoted from post at 19:46:12 12/04/15)(quoted from post at 18:20:03 12/04/15) Your second picture..........with your finger tell us how deep the indent is in the rocker tip.....your best guess! .005/.010/.020/.030 deep?
I think deep is .010-.015. Knocking problem? Grinding?
You ain't going to like what I say but I suggest you take the head and rocker arms to a machine shop and have the valve guides and stuff checked and have the rocker arm pads ground and recontoured. The reason I say that is the pad on the rocker arm slides across the tip of the valve as it opens and closes it. With indentations like yours on the rocker arms, chances are it is pushing the valve its self back and forth since the rocker arm can no longer slide across the tip. Plus you can't set the valve clearances with the indentations like that.
Machice shop grinding rocker arms. Then I put valve clearance inlet 025 and exhaust 030. When engine was warm then knocking start (not cold engine). Now I put inlet 020 and exhaust 025. Now warm engine didn't knocking... Are these valve clearances ok?
(quoted from post at 17:30:17 12/09/15)(quoted from post at 08:06:43 12/09/15)(quoted from post at 22:00:35 12/04/15)(quoted from post at 19:46:12 12/04/15)(quoted from post at 18:20:03 12/04/15) Your second picture..........with your finger tell us how deep the indent is in the rocker tip.....your best guess! .005/.010/.020/.030 deep?
I think deep is .010-.015. Knocking problem? Grinding?
You ain't going to like what I say but I suggest you take the head and rocker arms to a machine shop and have the valve guides and stuff checked and have the rocker arm pads ground and recontoured. The reason I say that is the pad on the rocker arm slides across the tip of the valve as it opens and closes it. With indentations like yours on the rocker arms, chances are it is pushing the valve its self back and forth since the rocker arm can no longer slide across the tip. Plus you can't set the valve clearances with the indentations like that.
Machice shop grinding rocker arms. Then I put valve clearance inlet 025 and exhaust 030. When engine was warm then knocking start (not cold engine). Now I put inlet 020 and exhaust 025. Now warm engine didn't knocking... Are these valve clearances ok?
Not according to what John Deere D posted...they should be .010 intake and .012 exhaust.
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