TEF20 Rear Axle Oil Leaks

[Frank Smith]

I have studied all the numerous posts on rear axle oil leaks in Fergusons on this forum and must admit to being quite confused now. I am located in Brisbane Australia and have TEF20 Serial No 423672 with the Standard Diesel Engine. The tractor sat idle for some years, but I have it running well again apart from the brakes, which have had oil on them. The left brake has had oil on it for a long time, but when I moved the tractor after sitting idle, oil began weeping from the right brake drum assembly too so I suspect the oil seals had hardened and deteriorated whilst standing. I have new brake pads and gaskets to install but need advice on fixing the oil seal problem and that is where the confusion arises.

The serial number on this tractor indicates that it has the updated axle assembly with two oil seals on each half axle and the presence of a grease nipple on the hub bearing retainer tends to confirm that. When ordering the brake linings I also ordered two SURE oil seals, but after reading through this forum I do not know whether these can be used on this model or not. As I am keen to know exactly what to expect beforehand, what parts I need to replace, and to have the correct parts on hand, I have not yet removed the rear wheels and half axles.

So I would appreciate members advice firstly on whether my problems are likely to be the oil seals or simply deterioration of the gaskets either side of the brake backing plate. Secondly, is it likely that the outer grease seals (nearest the rear wheel) need to be replaced. As I understand it this would require removal of the retaining collar and bearing. Thirdly, can the SURE seals that I have be fitted to the half axles on this model tractor or do I need to use the original type of inner oil seal (the seal closer to the splined end of the half axle).

I look forward to your guidance before attempting the rebuild.

Frank

 

[Graeme(Aust)]

Frank
I have a TEA20 built in 1956. It has the later axles with 2 oil seals. From information supplied by John(UK) the upgrade was made in 1953 from SN 325,001 onwards. So I suggest this includes yours.

Yes, you have to break the collar and put new seals on the outer axle as well as new seals in the axle housing. You can"t use the Sure Seals. A good garage/workshop should be able to remove collars, etc. Probably a good idea to put in new bearings at the same time. I bought Sparex kits but they included original leather type oil seals which I discarded and got modern seal from a bearings supplier. Suggest you price bearings and seals from other suppliers. Collars are available from Sparex.

Other thing you must watch is the replacement of gaskets. One on each side of brake plate. Need 4. Shims need to be replaced to get correct end float, and only way is by trial and error. It"s quite heavy work, and best to remove brake shoes and brake rod to make assembly lighter.

Best to get advice bulletin from John(UK) whose contact email can be found on his posts on this forum.

Graeme in Tasmania

 

[Frank Smith]

Thank You Graeme - I was afraid that may be the case and the job would be more complex than I had first envisaged. I see the Sparex seal kits and kits including bearings in their catalogue - was it only the seal components that you discarded from that kit? I have the gaskets for the brake backing plate. Where did you source new shims from and what assortment of thicknesses would you suggest?

I will email John (UK) for a copy of his bulletin as you suggest.

Frank

 

[Anonymous-0]

Keep note of the shims and gaskets you remove from each axle,the probablity is if you replace the same the gap between the axles will be the same.
If you have an electric drill and cold chisel, drill a hole in the collar and use cold chisel to split it.. . you don't realise how inept some of these so called mechanics are when you take it in to have the bearing pressed out . I had two pressed but had only removed one ring. cost $70. the bearing press took 5 minutes, getting the ring off was a real circus and on the time card. Told the boss he should not get rid of his helper, a real gold mine for the business.

 

[Graeme(Aust)]

Frank, I got the Sparex kits S.42078 $41.95ea. I didn"t use the leather oil seals but got TC12153 seals 2"x2-7/8"x3/8" for $10ea from a bearings supplier.
I didn"t need new shims. Shims already there, but when you reassemble you may not need to use all the shims. The idea is to try and use the same thickness of shims on each side, but I don"t think that is critical. I ended up with a few shims left over. I aim is to get the end float correct so axles don"t bind inside the diff.
John"s bulletins are invaluable.

There were two thicknesses, thick and thin. They are made of brass sheet. The new collar and new bearings may have different thickness to original, hence the need to adjust shims. Remember the collar has to be heated to expand before installing, and I think you need to drive it down firm onto bearing shoulder before it cools tight.
I was lucky to have a mechanic who worked on tractors and had previously done Ferguson axles.
Remember to note and mark L and R axles and install as before, as axles like to be twisted in the same direction as previously.

Graeme

 

[Frank Smith]

Thanks again Graeme - those Part numbers are very handy. Can you use the TC12153 seals for both the inner seal and outer seal? I notice the inner and outer seals are separate part numbers in the Sparex Kit S.42078.

John (UK) has also emailed me a whole lot of very useful information on this topic.

Frank

 

[Graeme(Aust)]

Frank
I got the Sparex S42078 seal kit,
372-35 bearing
385-301 gaskets all from Bepco. I think the last two might be BareCo numbers.

The seal kit has the two seals and the collar. The oil seals TC12153 were from Bearings Tasmania, and these would be the inner seals, I think now. My photo of old seal had number 104628 on it. (This shows as Sparex S.41417, which is included in the Sparex kit)
Modern, non-leather, seals seem easy to get from bearings suppliers.
Hope this is not too confusing. I am a bit confused.
Graeme

 

[Frank Smith]

Thanks again Graeme. I think I have it worked out now and will go and source the parts early next week. The material that John (UK) sent has been very useful and inspires some confidence which I hope will not prove to be misplaced.

Regards, Frank.