That's Better!

[Allan in NE]

It's Hugh MacKay's fault.

But, he's right. The later model M's drawbar has a pin hole of 1 1/16". Lots straighter too. :>)

Allan

 

[856]

Talk about a stump lifter hitch!!!!

 

[Allan in NE]

Darned thing seems to do okay.

Allan

 

[balatonm]

Sure makes a handy jack, (grin).

 

[AndrewFromNS]

Bah!
Allen, thats the light end! You've got the truck the wrong way round!

AR

 

[Janicholson]

Can you imagine someone in 1950 seeing the way that unit is dressed out!!! they would be Blown away. Nice. JimN

 

[CWL]

Have you decided what you're going to do about the swinging drawbar support not letting the arms go all the way down? When I made the three point for our H I did away with it completely. I made my own fixed drawbar that tied in at the stock location in front of the axle and was supported by the frame of the three point. You sure are bringing that machine around though!

 

[Allan in NE]

This old tractor is just a plain pure joy. Both to operate and to work on.

I probably say that because all of the hard stuff had already been done by the prior owner; all I had to do was a bit of updating stuff.

As for the hitch, think what I'm gonna do is just narrow that orginal U-drawbar up about 8", drill some holes and bolt it to the bottom of the 3-point brace, then run the reinforcement rods as usual only with a little more of an angle.

All it is for is to carry the tongue load anyway so it should work.

Allan

 

[Anonymous-0]

Now, who'd win the pullin contest?? Put the Ford in 4WD and have at it...Cmore

 

[Red Mist]

Allan:
That tractor is a "dressed up dandy". You've got it not only "purdy", but downright useful. Great job on a great ol' M.
mike

 

[Steven f/AZ]

I like the front tires, what size and brand are they?

I need to get something better than my grippers on my H...

Looks like a stout drawbar, if you bend that one something else got wrecked pretty bad!

 

[armand tatro]

Alan if you cut it at the right spot you will not have to drill any new holes. I was lucky enough to find a broken drawbar and did not have to drill any holes. As I recall we used original brace rods. Will have to check with my son. Armand

 

[Allan in NE]

Well heck Guy,

I just took another look at the thing. Didn't even see those holes up front.

All I gotta do is build a couple of little support legs, chop and weld the U back together again.

Allan

 

[D&Dservice]

(quoted from post at 10:16:50 03/13/08) Darned thing seems to do okay.

Allan

<img src="http://www.rieckesbaysidegallery.com/programfiles/talers/ACFC25.JPG">

Allan, if it was a wrecker you wanted I would have sold you mine! That tractor looks great! itll be a pleasure to hay with now!

 

[NDS]

Allen: I don"t know what you plan to use hitch for but do not think you will have problem with it as is. My Super M has had Saginaw for 30+ years (U bar is slanted down couple of inches more than yours and do not use swinging draw bar) and have never had a problem with arm height.

 

[Jrry]

Allan, you have a nice set up there. I have a chance to buy a similar Farmall M with wide front. It does not have a three point but I have one in my shop that was removed from another M a few years ago. How difficult is it to connect the hydraulics to the three point cylnder (mine only has one cylnder)assuming the M has hydraulics. I would think it would be pretty easy if the tractor has hydraulics already but am not famalier with the M.
Jerry

 

[Allan in NE]

Nothin' to it Jer.

In fact, this is the way it used to be done all the time before the advent of the quick disconnect.

Just screw one end of the hose into the cylinder and the other end into your hydraulic out on the tractor.

Walla! You're in business.

Disclaimer: If you're using a two-way cylinder and the original M hydraulics, you'll have to "vent" that upper cylinder port so that the cylinder isn't fighting against compressed air.

Allan

 

[jonathan s]

hey allen, is that a schwartz wide front? if it is it turns alot sharper then the one on my 400d. mine stickes out a little faruther to and turns sharper to the left then the right.

 

[Owen Aaland]

You can lower the U part of the draw bar all the way down and then put the swing part above rather than below. You will gain some on the three point arms and still have the swing bar in about the same location.

 

[Dan Bear Kelley]

Allen, that is too sweet for words! I'm going to save these pictures and post them in my garage as inspiration for my M.

 

[Bruce Wa.]

Allan, Did that with the Saginaw on my H, except I welded a couple verticle tabs with holes to the inside of the lift arms and bolted the U on the same way as a stock one. When I bent the braces in they went in a different hole than before but it seems as stout as it was before.