Three way fuel valve

[Pat Lafon]

My three way fuel valve is leaking badly where the shaft goes in. Can these be rebuilt? John Deere wants $180.00 for one.
Thanks.

 

[Anonymous-0]

take the valve off take it appart and take it to the dealer and find a tappered o-ring that will fit the shaft. when you put it togeather it will have to be turned right so the lever coresponds to the letters on the dash. also you will have to adjust the nut so that you can turn with ease but so it dont leak. we had to do this on the valve for our b it stops the leak.

 

[PBrowning]

I can find you a valve for a whole lot less than that -- call me (830) 627-0430 (PatB)

 

[Mike M]

Alot of times a new packing available from Deere will stop them up for a few years. D2126R part number comes to mind ? for some reason ? it might be the right one.

 

[johns48jdb]

why not just tighten it up a bit and see what happens first. don't over tighten it to where you can't turn it with just a little bit of force.

 

[Pat Lafon]

I tried tightening. It's tight and still oozing. I think I'll take it off and apart and redo it. Previous owner used teflon tape for plumbing around the threads so it must've leaked on him too and now it's come back. That stuff is made for water and not gas/fuel.

 

[Duane Larson]

Pat,
Mike has the right idea - the part number is D2122R - just unscrew the end, slip it over the handle, remove the old cork seal and put in the new one. The old cork has probably deteriorated.

 

[Greenday]

I just put a new sealing washer in mine today. Got it from McDonald Carb and Ignition for 2 bucks + shipping. They also have the new complete 3 way valves for $67.00.

 

[John T]

Duane, You ever do any of that lapping/grinding (use valve grinding compound) of the center cone down into the bore??? Ive just replaced that outer seal n never had any trouble BUT once I get a good seal I NEVER turn those valves again as I dont ever run Fuel or Kerosent etc.

John T

 

[John T]

Duane, You ever do any of that lapping/grinding (use valve grinding compound) of the center cone down into the bore??? Ive just replaced that outer seal n never had any trouble BUT once I get a good seal I NEVER turn those valves again as I dont ever run Fuel or Kerosent etc.

John T

 

[Mike M]

I should of known better then to trust my memory ! LOL

What's the likelyhood of me learning to not do this ? Greater then or lesser then the likelyhood of those owning and working on these old tractors to have a parts and owners manual for them ???

 

[Duane Larson]

John,
That approach can be complicated, and I have tried several things over the years, some of which actually worked. First, one has to be careful not to remove too much material because then the holes will loose their overlap. Sometimes some material has to be removed from the bottom of the movable plug. The best lapping material is something around 1000 grit Clover type compound. Being very careful, I chucked the stem in the lathe and at a very slow speed held the outside case against the stem and repeated that operation, checking often to see if the leakage had been resolved. One can mate the two pieces to an almost "perfect" fit - but normal valve grinding compound is too coarse in my opinion.

The O-ring method suggested several years ago on this site would seem to be a good solution, but I've not tried it (yet).

 

[alabamafrog]

On the topic of never turning the valve again, how do you turn the tractor off. Turning the fuel off and waiting for the carb to run out is the only way I know to turn either of my A’s off.
I think there is a pretty good article on the H website about repairing 3way valves.