timing sickle bar mower ??

[BLW]

been a long time since I've done this but a friend of mine has a mower that is not cutting right and I think it is out of time-- the knives are not all the way in the guards at the end of the stroke-- any info on how to gauge this would help alot-- I think the pitman arm wood is the wrong one-- thanks

 

[georgeky]

What kind of mower? It could be the pitman rod.

 

[old]

When its all the way in on its stroke and also all the way out on the stroke the section/knifes need to be centered in the guards, if not then its out of time and need to have the pitman worked on and or replaced with the correct one
Hobby farm

 

[BLW]

thanks old-- this guy is still confused-- please state exactly if you don't mind-- when you say the knives have to be centered do they have to be in the guards et. covered by the top part- or in the open space-- this is the only way I can stop this confusion

 

[Bob]

The point of the knife section will be centered in the guard point and move just beyond that point at each end of the knife stroke.

In other words, the knife is "in register" when each knife section is the same distance beyond the guard at the inner end of the stroke as it is at the outer end of the stroke.

"Clear as mud", ain't it?

 

[BLW]

bob yeah still clear as mud-- do you mean the knives are between the guards or in the same place as the guards at either end of the stroke

 

[DaveH IA]

If the pitman stick is right (and my memory hasn't completely failed) you can loosen the bolts where the bar attaches to the frame and slide the bar in or out to get the proper regester

 

[old]

The section/knifes need to be centered on the ledger plates or think of it this way. When you look at them/it you see the points of the guards. Well the knife/section needs the tip/point centered in the guard when the stroke is both all the way in or out. OR in other word the line that is the gap in the sections where they meat will be center of teach pair of guards. Hope this is better then clear as mud maybe more like clear as beer.
Hobby farm

 

[Dick L]

The cutter bar needs to go the same distance both ways. Turn the Pittman slow and mark both ends at its farthest point. Make sure you are centered. Rod (NH) has a drawing but I have had to make new pittman arms and was told by the dealer to center the cutterbar stroke.

 

[Walt Davies]

moc.tlib-ulav has wood pitman arms for all mowers. they also have a universal one to cut an drill to fit.

it should come with instructions for timing it.

Walt

 

[Anonymous-0]

On my old mower the bar can be moved in or out to adjust the register. The pitman wood has no bearing on the register of the knife.

 

[Clarkbug]

The manual for my JD #5 says to move the forked washers from one side of the main casting to the other, and if needed then adjust the clevis on the end of the drag link.

I think it would probably help to know the type of mower, and maybe we can get more specific.

 

[georgeky]

Mine does to, but if it has the wrong pitman on it , it does matter.

 

[Anonymous-0]

The wrong pitman stick would make it so far off you couldnt run the knife.My parts catalog lists the proper size for most mowers.I keep spares on hand.Keeps me from running the road after new sticks when I could be mowing instead.

 

[Leroy]

First off you have to determine the make and model of mower. The directions given will not work on all mowers. A standard mower will have a 3" knife section with a 3" guard spacing point to point. Most mowers will have a 3" stroke to the pitman so in register the point of the section will set exactly under the point of the guard on both ends of the stroke. Now to the confusing part some mowers such as the John Deere No. 8, No. 9 & No. 11, possibly others, use a stroke of 3 1/4" instead of the standard 3" so with that it would start at point tip to point tip 1/8" to the left of the first guard going thru that guard and thru the next guard and ending 1/8" past the point to point area of the second guard. Deere got that idea with the thought that the centered guard and section start cutting from a dead stop while going past center ment that the section was already moving when starting to cut and therefore take less power and cut faster.

 

[BLW]

thanks guys-- I have obtained a pic. of the section in time-- and the best way to explain it is to say the knife is over the guard when at either end of travel-- I was sure this was the case-- glad that is cleared up now back to work