Tips for division 2T

[DK44H]

I'm going to be participating in my first national pull in Lincoln NE in march. I'm going to be running in division 2t. What are some tips any of you can share both for attending a national pull in general, and running 2t? I'm going to try to cut my own tires, so if you have some advice on how to do that properly I'd appreciate any help I can get. Thanks for all your input! DK

 

[VicS]

Cutting tires is harder than it sounds. I like for just 1/2 in of rubber to touch the concrete when weighted for my class and with the air pressure set so about 2 inches of bar doesn't touch. Just a place to start. Be sure and take enough weights to the scale. Find who you follow and follow him over scale if possible. You will have plenty of time to get weighted for next class because of the number of pullers. Don't be intimated, they are people just like you and most will help without you asking. Vic

 

[DK44H]

Thanks for the advice. So when I top cut my tires, what is a good tread depth to leave on the lug? 1/2in? More? Less?

I'm also curious to know how the tractor may pull differently with cut tires. Does it spin the tires easier or do the pull a little harder due to the extra bite? Are the indoor tracks normally a little looser or do they require as much hp as a good outdoor clay track?

Sorry for all the questions, I just prefer to be prepared! Thanks DK

 

[mshultz]

When I top cut a tire, I try to keep an even taper across the entire bar and keep going down until the front edge is "sharp" - just a taper without the edge won't do. The shorter the cleat the less it will buckle under when pulling, but I wouldn't take a tire that gets a nice edge on it at 1" height and cut it down just to get it shorter - especially an old hard tire. You can only resharpen it so many times so leaving a little meat there gives you some more options down the road - once it's gone it's gone! I usually run it down the road a little just to see if there are any high spots I missed, and then let it alone. I never measured any like Vic said, but his formula sounds pretty accurage to me (and he kicks butt so listen to him.

Depending on how well your old tires worked and how good of a job you do with your newly cut tires - you may need to gear down b/c of the extra power your new found traction takes, and you'll definitly need more weight on the nose than you ran without cut tires running similar weight classes. It is amazing the difference they can make on some tractors.

 

[VicS]

Cale Manhake cut mine by hand, he is good. I talked him down to 5/8 . Eric Bloom always beats me I would judge his are 3/4 and tapered more than mine. It's like everything else one size doesn't fit all. MShults is right also. Vic

 

[DK44H]

Thanks guys for your help. Sounds like this will be a learning experience! I enjoy trying new things even if they don't work for me the first time. Keeps it interesting!

I'm wondering about tire choices. I have 12.4x38 tires that I regularly pull with in my local club. I'm quite successful with those but I don't want to cut them because I won't be able to use them this summer when the local pulls start. I have some old hard 15.5s on rims already that I'm not using that I could top cut and bolt right on but I'm questioning whether that's too big for my tractor to handle. Should I look for another set of 12.4s or maybe 13.6s? Will 13.6s mount on a 14in rim?

 

[Anonymous-0]

I would like to top cut my tires myself it would be nice if someone could post some pitcures as a guide.Thanks to all for good comments!

 

[jd b puller]

Just curious why you want your first pull to be 2T, instead of div 2. You already have the div 2 tires.

take your winning tires and pull div 2, and look around and see what the 2T is like.

Cutting tires is a lot of work.

 

[gpuller]

(quoted from post at 13:36:45 01/20/12) Just curious why you want your first pull to be 2T, instead of div 2. You already have the div 2 tires.

take your winning tires and pull div 2, and look around and see what the 2T is like.

Cutting tires is a lot of work.

Maybe he has some bolt ons that aren't allowed in D2. I'd like to pull my G in D2 but have an aftermarket cold manifold, that alone would bump me to D3.
If I had some top cuts I'd like to try 2T also.

 

[DK44H]

Because my tractor will not fit the division 2 rules due to welded on hubs and a few other engine modifications that would not be allowed. I do not have the hp or tires to compete in division 3. I have always wanted to pull at the national pull in Lincoln because it's only 45 minutes away but couldn't until now. So this is the only way I can.
It may be hard work but I like challenges and I think it would be a nice change of pace. If anyone has any tires close to me I'd be willing to talk about buying them!

 

[Anonymous-0]

What would a top cut cost on 15.5x38 approx range.Thanks

 

[6pack]

Maybe someone has a set you can borrow? or use for a couple bucks, what size tires are ya looking for?

 

[6pack]

I have a set of 151 firestones 15.5x38 already topcut $500, or $800 with 15" pressed steel

 

[NOS88]

If you normally pull a 12.4 uncut and are wondering about if you will have enough power to run a top cut 15.5, you may want to find something top cut close to the 12.4. The 15.5 top cut will take more power as you know. Only one way to find out though! Trial and error!

 

[DK44H]

Where might you be located 6 pack?

Also, do any of you think 50 hp is enough to handle 15.5s in
the 3500 and 4000?

 

[Mike Bock]

i use a electric wood plane to top cut my tires alot easier than grinding them and alot faster to

 

[Anonymous-0]

One picture is worth 1000 words if possible.Thanks

 

[6pack]

DK44H, I am south west MI, if you were close I would let you bolt mine on to try,

do not get caught up with have to have top cuts, I have seen 45hp tractors with 13.6 uncut beat 75-over 100hp tractors with full cuts,

I think a 50hp tractor will handle 15.5s up to 4500 in mph class, you will be in 1st gear, just go and have FUN,

I just missed a set of FREE 12.4s on craigslist road worn with no checking, them would have been good to throw on, I have some really old good year not cut, but sharp 13.6s, are weather checked, but hold air rims are shot

 

[jd b puller]

That's what I was thinking. I've used a power planer as well. Set the depth of cut as deep as it would go (which wasn't very much). Watch the rubber fly. If it's not throwing out big rubber that looks like black shredded mozzerella, the blade is dull. Smoke is bad too.

You can buy those fancy grinding disks too. If you do that, make sure you wear gloves, goggles, ear plugs (keeps the grit out of your ears), a mask, and a couple layers of clothes in case the ginder kicks back on you.

I still think I'd go with my winning stock tires. Get a good look at 20 tractors with top cuts.

 

[Anonymous-0]

6 pack, where in sw mi are you from, as I am in
sw mi too..

 

[6pack]

I am near Allegan, where are you at?

 

[DK44H]

Thanks 6 pack for your generosity. Im west of Lincoln NE
about an hour so we are quite a long way apart! I did an
internship in north central Indiana around warsaw and
leesburg a few years back and would have been easy to
meet up then! I've got a couple months to do some checking
locally so hopefully my luck will be good! Thanks again for
your help and everyone else too for the good advice! Hope to
see you guys there! DK

 

[Anonymous-0]

Coloma

 

[2cylinderpuller]

try spinning your tires on a concrete floor backwards. chain the frontend to another tractor. just stop and let them after they start to get hot. we did it all the time in div.2.