I have an 861 that has 14.9x24 rear tires with calcium. On the inside sidewall of one there is a tear about 3 inches long and you can see the tube. I bought the tractor last fall and I'm guessing it was like that when I bought it - shame on me, probably would have passed on the tractor or at least negotiated the price down. Anyway, I hope to finish baling hay before I do something about this but would like some opinions on how best to proceed with replacement. Being filled with calcium each tire probably weighs 400+ lbs so taking them off and getting them to the tire store will be a royal pain. I suppose I can get les schwabb to come out but I don't know what that will cost and after I get the tires off the rims I'll probably need to clean up and repaint the rims and I don't want to have two service call bills. Additionally I can probably order some new tires cheaper from Nebraska tire than Les Schwabb will want to charge me but then I have to figure out how to deal with the calcium. What have you all done in this situation.
Roll that sucker till the valves stems are down and drain the CaCl. You can keep it and reuse it if you want. Those 55 gal plastic drums are cheap.
I don't see anyway around having the tire guy do 2 trips if you want them dismounted, then you clean/paint rims, have him repair current tire, and remount.
If you really want new tires, just drain the CaCl and cut the old tires off if you don't have the tools to break them down. Clean the rim up and you only have one call to mount the new ones.
After all is said and done...re-fill with the old fluid.
I don't see anyway around having the tire guy do 2 trips if you want them dismounted, then you clean/paint rims, have him repair current tire, and remount.
If you really want new tires, just drain the CaCl and cut the old tires off if you don't have the tools to break them down. Clean the rim up and you only have one call to mount the new ones.
After all is said and done...re-fill with the old fluid.
I do all of my own tire work and always dump CaCl. It's great for keeping weeds down in gravel parking areas, driveways, etc., (wish I had some more).
If you are not doing any tillage with your 861 you neither need nor want the CaCl. If you plan to plow or pull anything more than an 8' disc in loose ground, you will need ballast. Look for weights.
Your tire will need to be replaced. the 24" tires are less common and more expensive than the 28" tires, as are the 28X14" rims. Hopefully your rims are OK.
If you are concerned about dumping the CaCl, be advised that many, many state and local jurisdictions used it (as well as used lubricating oil) on gravel roads for decades to control dust and still spray it and similar chemicals on highways to melt ice. If it's OK for them, it's OK for me.
Drive the tractor to the tire store if possible. You will be amazed by how quickly experienced AG tire service folks can change your tires without removing the rims from the tractor. Of course, CaCl will add to the cost, especially if you want it replaced.
Dean
If you are not doing any tillage with your 861 you neither need nor want the CaCl. If you plan to plow or pull anything more than an 8' disc in loose ground, you will need ballast. Look for weights.
Your tire will need to be replaced. the 24" tires are less common and more expensive than the 28" tires, as are the 28X14" rims. Hopefully your rims are OK.
If you are concerned about dumping the CaCl, be advised that many, many state and local jurisdictions used it (as well as used lubricating oil) on gravel roads for decades to control dust and still spray it and similar chemicals on highways to melt ice. If it's OK for them, it's OK for me.
Drive the tractor to the tire store if possible. You will be amazed by how quickly experienced AG tire service folks can change your tires without removing the rims from the tractor. Of course, CaCl will add to the cost, especially if you want it replaced.
Dean
Anonymous-0
Well-known Member
How much water do you put in a 13.50/28 tyre?
Royse
Well-known Member
- Location
- Ionia County, Michigan
You can drain the Calc out, or pump it out into a barrel using a
regular old drill mounted pump and a fitting.
Same fitting used to put it back in if you want to do so.
TSC has the fitting for $10.
Tire is bad, but if you're not putting liquid back in it, you might get
away with a boot. No guarantee on how long though.
28's are cheaper, but you would need new rims. Probably rim centers too.
I don't know how you'd have 24's on 28 inch centers.
For that reason, I'd see if I could save the tire or find a good used one.
regular old drill mounted pump and a fitting.
Same fitting used to put it back in if you want to do so.
TSC has the fitting for $10.
Tire is bad, but if you're not putting liquid back in it, you might get
away with a boot. No guarantee on how long though.
28's are cheaper, but you would need new rims. Probably rim centers too.
I don't know how you'd have 24's on 28 inch centers.
For that reason, I'd see if I could save the tire or find a good used one.
Ultradog MN
Well-known Member
- Location
- Twin Cities
Dean,
While I agree whole heartedly with your advice, I will say I disagree with one point you make.
[i:654c4848f0]"If you are not doing any tillage with your 861 you neither need nor want the CaCl." [/i:654c4848f0]
By that I assume you mean ballast in general?
I like a little weight - even if I'm not plowing or discing. It plants the tractor more firmly on the ground which is safer on my hilly, mogully terrain. Even on my little mowing tractor I run 450 lbs of cast iron on the rear = 225/side as I find I get less tire slippage on wet grass with negligable increase in compaction.
By wet grass I don't mean mowing in the rain but mowing tall, dense weeds and grass.
While I agree whole heartedly with your advice, I will say I disagree with one point you make.
[i:654c4848f0]"If you are not doing any tillage with your 861 you neither need nor want the CaCl." [/i:654c4848f0]
By that I assume you mean ballast in general?
I like a little weight - even if I'm not plowing or discing. It plants the tractor more firmly on the ground which is safer on my hilly, mogully terrain. Even on my little mowing tractor I run 450 lbs of cast iron on the rear = 225/side as I find I get less tire slippage on wet grass with negligable increase in compaction.
By wet grass I don't mean mowing in the rain but mowing tall, dense weeds and grass.
Ultradog MN
Well-known Member
- Location
- Twin Cities
You don't specify how good the tires are aside from the cut in the one sidewall.
If the tires are ok otherwise I would do as Royse suggests and look into a boot.
If you are not pushing maximum horsepower through your tires all the time you may get by for many years with a boot.
They are not cheap but would be much cheaper than 2 tires and tubes plus mounting and pumping.
Plus, if I had both rims empty I'd be sore tempted to do the sandblast, prime and paint.
All of which would add to the cost.
If the tires are ok otherwise I would do as Royse suggests and look into a boot.
If you are not pushing maximum horsepower through your tires all the time you may get by for many years with a boot.
They are not cheap but would be much cheaper than 2 tires and tubes plus mounting and pumping.
Plus, if I had both rims empty I'd be sore tempted to do the sandblast, prime and paint.
All of which would add to the cost.
johnw (OR)
Member
Better get all new 28 inch rims and tires cause I need a 24 inch ford weded center rim.
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