Tires (continued)

[Paul Douglass]

I started a thread the other day and some were kind enough to respond. Now I have new questions so I starting a new thread again to bring it back to the top. Hope you don't mind

Original Post:
I need to get tires for my 1956 Ford 851. The rear tires on it show 13 - 28 in big letters. Under that is 11.25 - 28 in smaller letters. What does this mean? what size do I go by?

New comment and question:

I just contacted Tucker Tires in Tenn. They sell a lot of tires on E-bay. The gentleman says 13.6 will fit but will be 2 inches shorter than a 14.9 wich is the correct size to replace the old 13. Has anyone dealt with them before? If so, do you recommend them? Looks like it would cost me around $700 for 2 tires (they are 8 ply).

 

[Anonymous-0]

Are the rims included in that price? If they are, that is a great deal.

 

[RodinNS]

Don't know/deal with them. The price seems good to me if it's a Firestone Field & Road tire. A Primex/Galaxy should be a bit less. There's probably a few other cheaper tires that may be worth consideration. Titan ought to be left where it's at in my opinion.
You could probably get by fine with a 6 ply tire on that tractor. It couldn't carry enough to actually need an 8 ply.
For what it's worth, most of those tractors had 11-28's on them new which would convert to a 12.4x28 now I think. Either a 12.4 or 13.6 would be considered the normal tire on them. It's not that there's anything wrong with a 14.9. It's just bigger, taller and more expensive.... If you're lacking for low gears it might be adventageous to go with a bit smaller tire. IF you find the tractor slow (which it is dreadfully), then go with the larger tire. Just depends on what you need.

Rod

 

[hardscrabble]

11.25 was replaced by 13, which was later replaced by 14.9. I must say, though, that 11.25 designation is REALLY antique. Much older than the tractor you say they are on.

 

[Joe(TX)]

Like I posted the first time. The 14.9 (13) is not what origionally came on the tractor. It is an oversize tire.

 

[GlenIdaho]

Just to add my 2cents for comparrison. I paid $600 for two 13.6 and 2 wheel with centers. They are Kelly Tires.

 

[RodinNS]

What make tire and what make wheel?
The last 14.9R28's I bought cost me 760 each.... and that was mounting and loading on MY rims. Those were Michelin Agribibs; not your average tire.

Rod

 

[GlenIdaho]

Hi Rod; the tires are Kelly-Springfield, 6 ply. Regarding the wheels, I can't tell you the exact make other than I was told they were off a Ford. Didn't look for the Ford stamp. I'll have to do that. They were used but in very good shape. I picked them up at a salvage yard.

 

[Dean]

Paul:

The original size tire for your 851 is 13.6x28 but 14.9s were offered as optional equipment on later models and will work fine on your tractor albeit at a higher price.

The 14.9s will work best with 12" wide rims. 13.6s will be OK on 11" rims.

Dean

 

[Paul Douglass]

I asked Tucker Tire about brand here is the responce:

"Hi power lug imports I have sold the imports 18 yr with no problems in the tens of thousands"

The price for 13.6 - 28 is $533 (starting bid) 2 tires and tubes, no rims.

 

[RodinNS]

Never heard of that tire, but if it's an import you probably want to stick with 8 plys. Just the same I'd take a chinese tire over a Titan. At least with the chinese you don't pay much for a cheap tire.
Import also explains the price. I haven't checked any Firestones lately, but I'd imagine them to be about 400 per tire here.

Rod

 

[Obsession]

http://www.millertire.com/ click on FAQ and it will tell you everything you want to know about old and new rear tractor tires and Rims.

The following is my opinion, but do whatever you want. Everyone is a little different.

Suggestions for tire shopping. Call every place in a 50 mile radius for tire and tube prices. I just bought a set of 15.5 by 38's for $300 a piece new - The highest price I was quoted was $420 a piece. Buy the lowest price tires and tubes you can find. (they may not be at the same place). Use the lowest ply tires you can find. Your tractor more than likely came with a 4 ply tire from the factory. The higher ply tires will work too, but the tire may not flex as well to optimize traction. The lower ply tires are easier to mount. A lot of tractors that came new with 8 ply tires were over 10,000 pounds. The eight ply tire may last little longer, but I am not sure. A couple of guys in my area sell the Chinese knock offs and they have nothing bad to say abut them. (other than they are made in china) Ask for a trade in or sell your old tires and tubes. Any rear tractor tire that will hold air will bring at least $50 a piece at a swap meat in our area. Someone WILL want you old tires and tubes. It is a popular size.

I would also recommend removing fluid from the tires if the tires have the corrosive fluid in them, unless you need the weight for traction or safely. Sandblast and paint or replace the Rims too if they need it. What better time to do it.

Good Luck

 

[Obsession]

PS --The $700 sounds like the price is too high. I don't recommend buying tires online, because of inflated tire and freight prices. Buy local if you can.

 

[Jim.UT]

I have a pair of Tucker Tire rims and tires on my 850. I'm running 13.6-28. Price was just under $700 for tires, tubes, mounted on new rims, inflated and delivered to my door. Local tire stores couldn't touch that price.

That was about 3 years ago and I've had no issues. The tires are a Mitas brand made in Turkey. I'd buy from them again.

 

[Paul Douglass]

Jim, you say the tires were inflated when you received them. Do you use fluid in your rear tires? If so how did you get it in that little hole?

 

[Jim.UT]

Yes the tires were inflated with just air when I got them and yes I use fluid in my tires.

I tried running them with just air, but I could tell that traction was sorely lacking and that I would definitely need fluid in the tires before next winter came.

I bought a special valve from NAPA that screws onto the tire valve and has a fitting to screw a garden hose into it. First jack up the tractor to take the weight off the tires, then remove the valve stem guts to let the air out. Rotate the tire so the valve is between 10 o'clock and 2 o'clock.

My original plan was to drill a hole in the bottom of a plastic bucket, then install a hose fitting there with a shut off valve. Then I was going to hang the bucket from a step ladder above the tire and then pour the fluid into the bucket and let it flow into the tire.

But I lucked out and found a hand crank pump. So I poured the fluid into a 5 gal bucket on the garage floor, stuck the pump input tube in the bucket and started cranking the fluid into the tire. I put 20 gallons of RV antifreeze into each tire, then topped it off with water. I figured a 50/50 mix would be enough to keep the tire from freezing solid. For 2 years I was right, but last year the tires froze up a couple of times. I would therefore recommend a stronger mix than 50/50 if you use RV antifreeze. I didn't want to use calcium chloride because of the corrosion it causes. That's why I had to replace rims in the first place. I've heard of others using windshield washer fluid, too.

The valve at NAPA cost about $15 or $20 as I recall.