Tires leaking

[Texasmark]

I have all of a sudden, had a leaking problem with 2 tractors rear tires. In short, examining the tires and no evidence of punctures were evident. In trying to solve the problem, I got to thinking about cause and effect. Two things came to mind....the Shrader Valve and the Shrader Valve housing to tube stem interface.

As its turning out in one case the slow leak was caused by the seal on the Shrader valve yielding to the age of the tractor...OEM tires and tubes. New valve solved that. Easy fix. The other one, same age area, is a leak between the Shrader valve assembly and the tube stem....I don't have the professional name for this marriage handy but most all tractor rear tires use it.

So, I buy some new Shrader assemblies and think about installing them. One was a walk in the park. The other was on a younger, larger, tractor and the Shrader assy was stuck to the tube stem and I was afraid to put too much pressure in trying to remove it since I could wind up with a total mess with a damaged stem, not wanting to deal with a weighted wheel and 18.4 x 38 tires. A soap/water solution easily detected the interface of the two elements and the leak rate (tiny bubbles) was very low so I decided to leave well enough alone and just check the air in the tire before going out to the field and replacing as required.

So....moving on, have any of you had a similar problem in wanting to replace the Shrader assembly without cooperating. Were you successful, and would share your reason for success. where is the pass/fail.....fix it or leave it alone point.

Thanks,
Mark

 

[Willow Lane]

Not saying that I always remember to do it, but those valves should be replaced about every 5 years

 

[Jim.ME]

I have all of a sudden, had a leaking problem with 2 tractors rear tires. In short, examining the tires and no evidence of punctures were evident. In trying to solve the problem, I got to thinking about cause and effect. Two things came to mind....the Shrader Valve and the Shrader Valve housing to tube stem interface.

As its turning out in one case the slow leak was caused by the seal on the Shrader valve yielding to the age of the tractor...OEM tires and tubes. New valve solved that. Easy fix. The other one, same age area, is a leak between the Shrader valve assembly and the tube stem....I don't have the professional name for this marriage handy but most all tractor rear tires use it.

So, I buy some new Shrader assemblies and think about installing them. One was a walk in the park. The other was on a younger, larger, tractor and the Shrader assy was stuck to the tube stem and I was afraid to put too much pressure in trying to remove it since I could wind up with a total mess with a damaged stem, not wanting to deal with a weighted wheel and 18.4 x 38 tires. A soap/water solution easily detected the interface of the two elements and the leak rate (tiny bubbles) was very low so I decided to leave well enough alone and just check the air in the tire before going out to the field and replacing as required.

So....moving on, have any of you had a similar problem in wanting to replace the Shrader assembly without cooperating. Were you successful, and would share your reason for success. where is the pass/fail.....fix it or leave it alone point.

Thanks,
Mark

Sounds like you are seeing a leak at the interface between the stem and the valve core housing. If a tube is really old it may have the AA (CH1) style core housing, the new CH3 style is the common one. The Shrader valve is inside the valve core housing. I use one pair of pliers to hold the stem and a second pair to turn the valve core housing. One must be reasonable in force applied, but they usually come right out once started.

 

[caterpillar guy]

I have had to remove the core and let them drain into a barrel ,preferable a plastic one then change thew tube with a new one if it is leaking between the rubber and the threaded pipe bonded to the rubber. IF just the piece screwed into the pipe then sometimes you cam hold the pipe with a pliers and with another set turn the stem piece out of the pipe. As said usually if they start they will come on out pretty decent. I would drain it now and fix before the rim is rotted out from the leak. Adding air as it softens will just ad to your problem as the chloride leaks down behind the rim with the stem in different locations of rotation. These arew the reasons loaded tires with chloride get such a bad rap.

 

[Texasmark]

I think you guys are onto it. The nut on the outside of the valve stem protrusion through the wheel is on a continuously threaded shaft. With that said, it appears that I have the old style. I notice your caution about "carefully"!!!!!! I did use 2 pair of pliers holding the stem in place with one and the insert with the other. Moderate pressure didn't budge it. I thought about soaking the joint in penetrating oil but I didn't want to get any on the rubber and possibly cause it to degrade and cause more of a leak. I guess the time line exceeded the ability of brass to resist corrosion.

That's my main question.......how much force is too much and I wind up with a mess on my hands....the bond between that continuously threaded stem and the rubber is what I would worry about. There are wheel weights and no fluid. Sometimes it's best to leave things be and I think this is one to leave alone. The leak isn't bad but it is a leak.

Thanks for your time.

 

[Jim.ME]

If you have the old AA/CH1 type you have to loosen the collar nut on it then work the valve core housing out as the collar nut is backed off the stem. Squeezing too hard on the collar nut can cause it to bind on the stem. The nut is not very thick and just a bit larger diameter than a valve cap.

The two types of core housings are not interchangeable. Be sure you have the right type in hand, if you decide to procede.

It is old and has a tube, so you could try putting a good dose of a sealant for tubes in it. Not much too lose in this case.

 

[caterpillar guy]

IF not loaded and not leaking bad.I would finish the immediate job and as soon as I had the time I would get the stem apart however possible without ruining the tube and fix or replace the tube. tubes must be in the 100.00 or more range now. I know a few years ago that size was about 80.00 .

 

[Fixingfarmer]

Yep the thing about a leak is it won’t get better by itself. I’d put the jack under the tractor first then try a little harder pulling the valve apart it does sound like you might have to invest in a tube

 

[casecollectorsc]

Have had trouble with the entire assembly, but replacing the core stops the leak a lot of the time. Yesterday had to change a 23.1x30 tire. One on the tractor had large cracks so put a used one on.

 

[Texasmark]

Have had trouble with the entire assembly, but replacing the core stops the leak a lot of the time. Yesterday had to change a 23.1x30 tire. One on the tractor had large cracks so put a used one on.View attachment 112060View attachment 112063View attachment 112062

Nice work. I have 2 weights per wheel plus getting the tire off, the tube out, to fit a new tub in....working alone at 83 and not what I used to be. I have a tire shop that just put a new 13.6x28 tube in my Ford 3000 here at the farm and two tire guys worked over an hour to get the old tube off the wheel center part (stuck to it).....one of the guys has been working tires for 25 years. Their service truck is not that big and their tools primitive. Old tire store that had been in business for 2 generations quit the service truck business about 15 years ago. More I think about it I think I will just park near an air compressor and just keep the tire from going flat over time and just air up prior to use.

On replacing the Shrader core, I had a worse leak and replaced the core which made a big difference in the size of the leak.

Thanks

 

[Texasmark]

IF not loaded and not leaking bad.I would finish the immediate job and as soon as I had the time I would get the stem apart however possible without ruining the tube and fix or replace the tube. tubes must be in the 100.00 or more range now. I know a few years ago that size was about 80.00 .

The price of the tube isn't the problem. The problem is getting the tire serviced. If I could find a company with a service truck with adequate equipment, it would be who knows how far away and the cost would be a consideration figuring I'm really not out anything by just keeping it up. I run 15" in the tire and over a couple of weeks lost 2# after replacing the Shrader core.....I can stand that.
Thanks

 

[casecollectorsc]

Nice work. I have 2 weights per wheel plus getting the tire off, the tube out, to fit a new tub in....working alone at 83 and not what I used to be. I have a tire shop that just put a new 13.6x28 tube in my Ford 3000 here at the farm and two tire guys worked over an hour to get the old tube off the wheel center part (stuck to it).....one of the guys has been working tires for 25 years. Their service truck is not that big and their tools primitive. Old tire store that had been in business for 2 generations quit the service truck business about 15 years ago. More I think about it I think I will just park near an air compressor and just keep the tire from going flat over time and just air up prior to use.

On replacing the Shrader core, I had a worse leak and replaced the core which made a big difference in the size of the leak.

Thanks

At 77, I'm not far behind you. Averages about $450 a tire for mileage and service to have a dealer come out to change rear tires.

 

[Texasmark]

At 77, I'm not far behind you. Averages about $450 a tire for mileage and service to have a dealer come out to change rear tires.

About what I expected plus parts.

 

[paul]

If you have the old AA/CH1 type you have to loosen the collar nut on it then work the valve core housing out as the collar nut is backed off the stem. Squeezing too hard on the collar nut can cause it to bind on the stem. The nut is not very thick and just a bit larger diameter than a valve cap.

The two types of core housings are not interchangeable. Be sure you have the right type in hand, if you decide to procede.

It is old and has a tube, so you could try putting a good dose of a sealant for tubes in it. Not much too lose in this case.

All the sealants I come across are for tubeless tires, I have not seen one that is rated for, works in, tubes? I’d appreciate more info!

Paul

 

[Jim.ME]

All the sealants I come across are for tubeless tires, I have not seen one that is rated for, works in, tubes? I’d appreciate more info!

Paul

Slime has one they say works in tubes, and they sell some sizes of tubes with it already in the tube.

 

[buickanddeere]

Are the threads a common size to cleanup with a tap ?

 

[Jim.ME]

Are the threads a common size to cleanup with a tap ?

They are common for stems and components, not common to regular taps for nuts and bolts.

 

[stevieb49829]

Both mine leaked, and they are loaded with chloride. The one that was the worst actually unscrewed and I replaced both the core holder and the schrader valve. The other one would not part from the tube, but luckily it took a new schrader valve once I used an easy out to get the remains out of the core holder and chased the threads with a tap. This is the one that came out quite easily:



I don't think bronze and calcium chloride are very compatible.

 

[stevieb49829]

Are the threads a common size to cleanup with a tap ?

No, the threads are not common. But, I think a 10-32 was close enough to clean out the remains of the Schrader valve and the new one went in tight and sealed. I think I put a little RTV on the Schrader threads to help seal it. Just don't get any on the poppet valve or you'll have more leak.

 

[caterpillar guy]

The o-ring on the stem body should seal that to the pipe in the tube. then the core seals there. I've had some rotted out but not so I could sve the tube if they got that bad. I have one that is leaking slightly on the 1466 through the core. I just change the bodies then replace the cores after they are out. It is easier and faster with less leak loss during changing to swap out the body /schrader piece than trying to get a cor out and back in all the while it is leaking. the body will slip out and new back in pretty easy and quick with little leak. As for those big tires like that 23.1-30 I got a couple bigger bars for them that are heavy but are about 5 foot long to pry with. I also use one of the forks on the telehandler to push them off the bead then pry that side off and pull out some with a chain to change the tube the back bead can stay on that way. did it to a 12.4-38 on the H so will work on a pretty narrow tire. Works really well on wider tires. not so much if the tire has to come off then I push the inside bead off by getting in behind it at a slight angle can push that one off too. I do this with it on blocks and never have tipped on off yet. I also lift the tire off the ground and set the blocks with it. It will lift one tire on the Stiegers so no jacking and yes I will drive it to the tractor. makes tire work so much easier and faster. IF you ever used one you will wonder how you got along without one. Much more versatile than a loader.