to 20 brake adjustment

[Anonymous-0]

How do I adjust the brakes on my TO 20? I would like both sides to work about equally. thanks

 

[Jerry/MT]

Jack the back end up so the wheels clear the ground. Using a screw driver in the slot on the brake backing plate, crank the starwheel til you can"t rotate the wheel. Then back off the star wheel til the wheel just turns freely. Repeat on the other side. Check out by operating the tractor and repeat if necessary till your braking is satisfactory.

 

[Bruce(OR)]

Compliments to Sir John.



How-to adjust the Brakes on a FERGUSON
TE20 series / TO20 / 30 or FF30 Tractor
The Braking system on the TE20 series of tractors has been changed from and to
Girling Kidney cam and Floating cam during its life. The TO20/30 uses Bendix Brakes
which are similar to the Girling Floating cam type, but smaller in diameter. Everything
for the TE & FF30 tractor applies to the TO models also except the method of adjusting
the Brake-shoes.
After being in service for sometime you may find the braking power
deteriorates, this can be due to oil on the Brake-shoes, the Brake-shoes have become
glazed, the Brake linings worn away and they are now running on the rivets or direct on
the shoes themselves or someone has played around with them and messed up the rod
adjustments.
Check that the independent Brake-pedals are not seized up, this you can do easily by
lifting each independent Brake-pedal in turn and see if the Brake-rod to the main
Brake-pedal bends in its length. If this occurs the joint at the end of the Pedal is seized
through lack of lubrication (early TE series tractors up to # 225159 had oil-lite bushes
fitted and no grease zerk/nipple, same with TO20 models too) you will need to free off
the Brake pedals before you can do anything, they must be taken apart and thoroughly
cleaned, and except those fitted with a grease zerk/nipple DO NOT USE ANY
GREASE ON THESE BUSHES. Along the front of the Rear-Axle housings is the
Brake operating shaft attached at one end to the independent Brake-pedal and on the
other end to the Brake-shoes, on the back of the Brake-drum there are two large nuts,
one either side of this shaft as it passes into the Brake-drum, slacken these large nuts
off. Jack up the rear wheels and go to the back of the tractor, inside the rear wheel on
the back of the Brake-drum and back plate, there is a square nut ** with a hexagon nut
below…slacken the hexagon nut first and tap it with a small hammer to make sure
its free to move, then adjust the square nut ** clockwise until the wheel is locked up, go
to the front of the Rear-Axle and tap the Brake shaft up and down a few times to free
it off and also to make sure the Brake-shoes are central in the drums. On the Kidney
Cam brakes (earlier type) make sure that the collar on the shaft is adjusted so there is no
end play in the shaft. Now tighten the two large nuts at either side of the Brake shaft,
VERY TIGHT. Now back to the Brake Adjuster and tighten the hexagon nut, then back
off the square nut ** until the wheel turns without binding, usually 6 to 8 clicks. Repeat
all this on the other wheel. .
Lower the wheels to the floor and drive the tractor forwards slowly in 2nd gear with the
Brake- pedal pressed down hard, if the tractor veers to one side slacken that Wheel
Brake off a couple of clicks until the tractors will run in a straight line.
If you have to dismantle the Brake-shoes for any reason, make a note as to how the
springs are fitted, if you get them wrong you may get only one shoe braking or maybe it
will only Brake in reverse or maybe even not at all You need to check that the Brake
Shoes are square to the Axle Flange by using a “Straight Edge” from the Axle Flange to
the braking surface of the shoes and adjust them by altering the nuts on the steady posts
in the centre of each shoe, otherwise the Brake Shoes may only operate on part of the
friction surface and this would lead to poor braking. The Shoes should be at a perfect
right angle to the Axle Flange to work properly.
The Brake-rods need to be of the correct length for the tractor and should be checked
from time to time to allow for any wear taking place. If you need to adjust the Rods,
then go to the Rod section on the next page below for information. Once you have done
this procedure and you now know the Rods lengths are ok, next time you have to adjust
2
the Brakes you can simply adjust them on the square nuts, ** but slacken the hexagon
nut below off first and tighten it when you have finished as this is the centraliser for
the Adjuster, if you don’t slacken it you will break it.
** On TO model tractors and some modified TE series tractors, the Brake-shoes
are adjusted by turning the Adjuster through a slot in the Brake back plate with
screwdriver; these tractors do not have the square nut or the hexagon nut below.
Move the handle of the screwdriver towards the axle to tighten.

To adjust Brake Rods for equal length.
With both Brake-rods being detached from cross-shaft and with the Brake-shoes fully
expanded in the Brake-drums, proceed as follows:-
Adjust yoke ends on Brake-rods so that the clevis pins can be inserted without difficulty
through the cross-shaft arms, with the cross-shaft arms one spline back from vertical
position, at the same time pulling forward on the Brake-rods to remove excessive play
in fork ends and clearance between cam and shoe tips. Insert the cotter pins.
Slacken off the Adjuster 6 to 8 clicks. Now test the Brakes.
NOTE: - Brakes cannot be adjusted by altering the length of the operating rods. The
Brake-shoes themselves must be adjusted in the Brake-drums.
** On TO model tractors and some modified TE series tractors, the Brake-shoes are
adjusted by turning the Adjuster through a slot in the Brake back plate with a
screwdriver. Move the handle of the screwdriver towards the axle to tighten.

 

[Bruce(OR)]

The only thing That I did not cover my posting below is when I removed all the slck from the brake pedal rods, I used a bungee cord to keep the pedals pulled up for the proper adjustment.
The cords ran from the sterring wheel down to each pedal as memory serves.

 

[John(UK)]

You should not need to use anything to lift up the pedals while you set them providing the linkage is free and not sticking or the springs are weak. If you do find that you do need to do this then it is an indication that something is wrong.Before adjusting the brakes you should check if the independent Brake pedals are seized at the inner joint or you will not be able to set and balance the brakes until they are free. To check if they are seized. Just LIFT each Independent brake pedal in turn and if the brake rod alongside the Transmission bends, then the Joint on that pedal is seized and must be freed off first. Something else to check in addition to all that the Bruce posted, is that the rear edge of the drop levers on the brake cross-shaft that runs through the Clutch Housing should be set ONE spline back from vertical BEFORE you check the length of the Brake Rods. You CAN'T adjust the brakes by altering the length of the brake rods. If you want all this information about the brakes in written form or if you have any other query about the brakes, just email me and I will send it to you....John(UK)[email protected]