TO-30 Cranks but won’t start

[medina30]

I have had a hard time with this, to make things easier I’ll attach the link. Thanks for your time in advance.

 

[TimothyF]

Either no spark or gas. Check that the points and wire position on the distributor are correct. Condenser, coil, is the cover connecting to the rotor, right cover? Gas flowing thru line to carb. Flowing through carb? Do a compression test at some point as well.

 

[medina30]

Either no spark or gas. Check that the points and wire position on the distributor are correct. Condenser, coil, is the cover connecting to the rotor, right cover? Gas flowing thru line to carb. Flowing through carb? Do a compression test at some point as well.

When you say wire position are you referring to the way that the wires are to the plugs? Or the position of the distributor? I thought maybe I had it incorrect. Gas is flowing to the carb. I will check the coil.

 

[pomester]

I have had a hard time with this, to make things easier I’ll attach the link. Thanks for your time in advance.

I don't like your switch wiring. It is not really the appropriate switch, but should work.

I realize yours may have a different configuration, but I would wager the same labeled terminals. The 'ST' is used to momentarily activate a solenoid (which you don't have). That terminal is only energized when the key is turned all the way to the right. As soon as the key is released the 'ST' terminal is no longer energized. There should be a wire running from 'IGN' to the coil. There should be a wire run from 12v to then 'BAT' terminal.This could be pulled off the ammeter or the hot terminal of your starter switch.

When you switch the key to the 'run' position, 12v should show up at the 'IGN' terminal and run thru a wire to the coil. Do you have a continuity tester of some sort? You don't really need a meter, a cheap continuity tester such as this one will work fine.

Double check that wiring and see what's going on.
David

 

[medina30]

I don't like your switch wiring. It is not really the appropriate switch, but should work.

I realize yours may have a different configuration, but I would wager the same labeled terminals. The 'ST' is used to momentarily activate a solenoid (which you don't have). That terminal is only energized when the key is turned all the way to the right. As soon as the key is released the 'ST' terminal is no longer energized. There should be a wire running from 'IGN' to the coil. There should be a wire run from 12v to then 'BAT' terminal.This could be pulled off the ammeter or the hot terminal of your starter switch.


View attachment 64718

When you switch the key to the 'run' position, 12v should show up at the 'IGN' terminal and run thru a wire to the coil. Do you have a continuity tester of some sort? You don't really need a meter, a cheap continuity tester such as this one will work fine.
View attachment 64719

Double check that wiring and see what's going on.
David

I’d rather make things simple, what kind of switch would you recommend? I have 12v where it should be. I will run a tester and comeback. Unfortunately it would have to wait for the weekend.

 

[pomester]

I’d rather make things simple, what kind of switch would you recommend? I have 12v where it should be. I will run a tester and comeback. Unfortunately it would have to wait for the weekend.

The tractor originally came with a four position switch with three terminals on the back. The positions were 'off'- 'ignition'- 'ignition and lights' -'lights'. There was no momentary 'start' position. In your video you mention moving the coil wire from 'ignition' to 'start', IIRCC. This will not send 12v to the coil except when the key is in the start position (all the way to the right against the spring).

The fact that you get no reaction at all from ether into the intake suggests to me an electrical problem. Even if the distributor was miss-timed or wired backwards, if there was spark you would get some kind of reaction to the ether, smoke - popping - backfire.

 

[Hdonly]

Has it ever started since you have had it? It sounds like the engine is turning over kinda slow. Make sure your battery is fully charged. Pull the high tension coil wire off the distributor cap and hold the end close to engine block and see if you have spark while turning the engine over.

 

[medina30]

Has it ever started since you have had it? It sounds like the engine is turning over kinda slow. Make sure your battery is fully charged. Pull the high tension coil wire off the distributor cap and hold the end close to engine block and see if you have spark while turning the engine over.

It did, ran it twice for about 200 yards then it would die on me. Let it sit for about a year. Turns over string when charged, that was a last attempt.

 

[Hdonly]

Do the spark check. If no spark, it could be a failed condenser under the distributor cap. Sometimes they short to ground and kill the spark. Also check the points gap.

 

[Mad Farmer]

Your small hot wire to the coil needs to go to the ign post on your key switch. That post should have 12V with key on.

With that fixed check that the coil gets 12V from switch with they key on from the same wire.

It looks like plug wires are in correct order on dist cap.

Take a picture of inside of dist with cap and cover off. Are points set/gapped to 0.022"? If not gap them them, then clean them with contact cleaner and by running a piece of clean paper between them.

Key off. Take the high tension lead off the dist (center wire) to coil (so tractor can't start).
Connect a multimeter to the coil post that goes to dist and points (low tension small wire), the other lead to ground, set it on ohms. Turn the engine with the fan so the points are open, should be no continuity. If there is, the points or wiring to them are grounded, and that needs to be fixed.

Turn the engine so points are closed. Now there should be continuity. If not points may still be dirty.

Again, Take the high tension lead off the dist to coil (so tractor can't start). Do the same test above, with key on and meter set to volts. When you turn engine you should see 12V with points open and 0 V with them closed.

Let us know what you find out. We'll check timing next.......

 

[olddavid]

As mentioned check for voltage to the coil first and then for spark. Normally the number one spark plug wire comes off the distributor cap at around the 10:00 o'clock position. Yours looks more like 6:00 o'clock. Having said that it may be that yours is set that way so don't change anything, yet. The firing order looks correct on your cap. Get the #1 cylinder to top dead center (compression stroke) and see where the rotor points. If it's pointing at the wire going to #1 on the cap it's right. Don't change a thing. If it's pointing at #4 plug wire on the cap either it isn't on the compression stroke for #1 OR the wires are off 180 degrees. Confirm #1 is on the compression stroke. If the rotor isn't pointing somewhat close to #1 on the cap you need to retime the engine.