TO-30 Oil pump

[pojo]

Is it a major undertaking to rebuild/replace the oil pump (engine) in a 52 TO-30? I've been told the pressure relief valve may be stuck open.

 

[Richard L]

POJO, haven't had to do it yet but as many on this forum say there is nothing major about fixing anything on a Ferguson. My GUESS is pull the pan, remove pump, open up pump to check inside, I just looked in the shop manual and it does not sound like it would be hard at all to pull it and inspect it. My suggestion is if you do not have a shop manual get one then everything is easier. Richard

 

[Anonymous-0]

It is pretty simple but I ran into two problems caused by poor maintenance and one by my inexperience: 1. The relief valve was corroded in place and I had to use a bolt extractor to get it out which is tricky since it is a thin walled tube with a closed end running in a bore and I couldn't allow too much force or it would distort the wall and make it tighter. The bore required honing and probably costs me a few PSI at idle. 2. The gears had scarred the cover plate (looked like it may have run with something abrasive in the oil) and I had to polish it down which took a while. 3. The set screw that holds the driving gear in place on the shaft requires care in drilling because you drill in the interface of the steel shaft and the aluminum gear and, even with a drill press, the bit wants to run into the aluminum. I finally got it by chucking the drill bit so that only about 1/4" was peeping out and the vise with the gear and shaft was bolted down. A jig can be bought for this but it costs more than the kit.

Removal and installation was straightforward. I hope this helps.

 

[gshadel]

I rebuilt my pump several years back. It is a straight forward job. The pump simply unbolts from the front main crank bearing. The relief valve typical is either siezed or eroded so oil leaks back into the pan, robbing you of desired pressure.
The pump gears are close tolerence to each other, they can be worn, but not "look" worn. The tolorence between the gears and the front plate is critical to good pump flow and preventing excessive wear. You MUST use a pump gasket that is made for that pump to insure you have the right clearance between the plate & gears. Don't just cut your own from gasket paper or use silicone gasket maker on that face plate gasket.

The oil pump rebuild kit description does not tell you what you get. You get a new relief plunger & spring, bushings for the pump shafts, both pump gears, face plate gasket, aluminum drive gear and set screw.
As Don mentioned, drilling the alum. gear/steel shaft interface is tough. Don't try with a hand drill(like I did). I was able to finally drill with a drill press. You have to tap that hole to accept the set screw, but that is easy once you have a good hole drilled. You also have to drive the aluminum gear onto the pump shaft. A small shop press would be ideal for the job.I had no press... I was able to do it using a deep well socket as a mandrel on the aluminum gear, a hammer & vise to drive the gear onto the shaft.
Pressing the pump shaft bushings in is your call. I decided my new gears had no slop in the existing bushings and chose to not use the new bushing that came in the kit (not having a shop press weighed on that decision too)

George