To30 hydraulics

ruschman

Member
I have no hydraulics. Today I removed the leveling arms. I could raise the lift arms manually without resistance. Once raised, they fell rapidly back down with no resistance.

This must mean something, but I don't know what. Where does it lead me?

Thanks
 
I suspect either the machine wasn't running or might be out of oil.
Beyond that it's potentially borken.
The part where the crack ends in a break or that stuck think might be your problem however that is not
guaranteed.
Fluid is what color? Changed when? How much water? Frozen control and or relief valve?
Linkage is connected internally or is disconnected?
Remove the side cover and have a look.
DO NOT STICK THE FINGERS IN THERE WHILE RUNNING.
Yo do that and we change your handle to Stubby.
If the lift arms just fall without the engine running or engaged controls, I can say that the pneumatics in
this machine are non existent.
Other smarter folks might chime in shortly.
 
Follow what Bruce says looks like a good plan. It may be that the lift arm pistons O rings may have worn out too.
cvphoto164916.png
 
None of these are easy as make sure the plug is in. But I am looking at where to start. When I did my JD H, the piston with just the leather cup was difficult to move by hand. That's why I was surprised by the lack of resistance.

I'm not going to start tear down for a few weeks because I do not see this being a quick fix, and I'd like to have some parts on hand. I wish they'd have made provisions for using the tractor with hyd. Disassembled.
 
"I could raise the lift arms manually without resistance. Once raised, they fell rapidly back down with no resistance."

That is because the arm mechanism is not attached to the piston/rod assembly. It's a one way cylinder/piston using gravity/weight to lower the lift arms. When you raise the arms manually you do not move the piston.

A couple of pictures of the mechanism. This is an 8N cover which I used to covert a TO-30 to position control, but the cylinder/dog bone/lever are of similar design to the original. The dog bone is attached to the lever, but not the piston in the cylinder.


mvphoto110985.jpg


mvphoto110986.jpg


mvphoto110987.jpg
 
Thank you Pomester, that
now makes sense. So it
makes no difference to
the original problem nor
does it give me a new
lead on how to proceed.
I'm trying to get away
from having to do both
the pump and lift cover.
 
The PTO must be engaged for the hydraulic pump to be driven. That's a good place to start.

Water accumulates and oil floats on water. It's not uncommon to open the drain plug at the bottom of the hydraulic pump and drain off significant quantities of water. Water freezes and damages things. Contaminated oil is generally opaque and cream colored. Generally, even contaminated oil will allow the hydraulic system to function, but the control mechanism is near the bottom of the pump and can get corroded/corrupted/gummed.

Taking the side cover off allows examination of the control linkage which can become disconnected.

There's not a lot to go wrong with the top cover and cylinder. The seals on the cylinder can become worn, but the system will still operate, it just drops quickly after the engine is turned off.

These systems are pretty simple and durable. I'd carefully diagnose the system before dropping the pump/pulling the top cover.
 
I had side covers off and checked linkages. Everything seems to move properly but I cannot see to the bottom. I'm planning to change the control and relief valves at the same time, but don't I have to drop the pump to do that? From what I've read, it's yes, but if it could be done without dropping I'd be happy.
 
Before you do naything, make sure the T shaped controlvalve stem is in the sockets on the H shaped control fork and the control valve moves fore and aft in the control sleeve easily and isn't stuckt. It should easily move in an out of the control sleeve by a total of one inch.
 
I drained my TO-30 that had been sitting for a few years. Quite a bit of water came out, and the fluid was very dark.

Since then, I loaded a gallon of diesel in there, ran it for 30 seconds, then drained that out and refilled with UTF. It worked like a champ. The hyd system seems to be rather over-built. I would get the fluid situation straighten out first before digging into pump, piston, etc.
 
Well folks I want to thank you for all the help,but this portion of the project is on hold. I live in a colder climate so before winter sets in I figured I'd check coolant. Oil on top of the core. I think it is confirmed that I have a blown head gasket, and hope it is no worse.
I think it would be best to take care of the engine first before putting dollars and effort into the hyd.
I wanted a winter project, but maybe not one that would outlive me. All these ideas will be used, but not just yet.
Thanks again.
 
You must be in the mid froze, excuse me, mid west.
Winter is still coming on the west side, unless your high up.
 
Take cover off and pull out the piston. Had similar problem with my TO30 years ago, the rubber rings on the lift piston had worn out.
Replaced o ring, new oil in hydraulics ( I use motor oil as it does not draw water in) back together and no problems since. Just worn rings.



Tom
 
That brings up a question. How heavy or cumbersome is that cover. No lifts, can one person ( average strength with minimal IQ) handle it?
 
"can one person ( average strength with minimal IQ) handle it?"

I'm going to say no. Moving it around the bench, probably, but to remove the top cover it has to be raised vertically close to 2', and the parts dangling down are fragile. Same for replacing.

Rent a engine hoist.
 
The boat isn't the problem,the space in the garage is the problem. It is probably easier to do than to think about how to do.turning it over onto its back without damaging internals sounds intimidating.
 
(quoted from post at 02:45:50 10/30/23) The boat isn't the problem,the space in the garage is the problem. It is probably easier to do than to think about how to do.turning it over onto its back without damaging internals sounds intimidating.
That was supposed to say hoist isn't a problem. Sorry.
 

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