Tool question for all

NCWayne

Well-known Member
I was just reading the post below about the low priced hammer drill, along with some of the replies, and it got me to thinking. A comment was made to the effect that is wasn't really all that smart to spend alot of money on a tool that wasn't going to be used but once or twice a year. In the farming world, if no other, I'd think that comment would be so far away from reality than in any other profession.

It all got me to thinking about my tools, and the frequency of use they get. Basically I have some that are cheap and some that are expensive, that all get used on a near daily basis. On the other hand I have some that might get pulled out only once a year, or even every couple of years, or some even less than that.

Funny thing about the whole deal is that some of the ones that get used the absolute least of the bunch are some of the most expensive. For instance I've several Enerpac, Simplex, etc hydraulic rams that only get used when they are really needed. One of the largest is a 100 ton ram with a 10 inch stroke. That ram alone would cost me around $3500 to replace. Add on the 100 ton with a 6 inch stroke ($2500), a 50 ton with a 6 inch stroke ($1250), a 50 ton twin ram ($1000), a 60 ton thru hole with a 10 inch stroke ($3500 plus), and another 60 ton thru hole with a 6 inch stroke ($2700), not to mention all of the smaller diameter 10 to 30 ton rams, and the flat/short stroke rams. Top that with another 103 ton CAT ram, and a smaller mate at 75 tons, both used for pulling sprockets, etc, and the list grows even larger.

All total I'm guestimating I've got somewhere around $25,000 worth of nothing but hydraulic rams designed for lifting equipment, pushing out pins, etc, etc, etc., that spend 99% of their lives doing nothing but riding around until they are needed. Granted I don't have nearly the $25000 invested in them it would cost to replace them all, but that's because I was smart enough to wait for deals on many of them, and a few I got lucky when LARGE customers would clean up and give me items they no longer used (ie-the two CAT rams).

In any case my point it this. I wouldn't even begin to cheap out on any of my tools, but I still know when it's prudent to buy the high dollar item, buy the lower cost item that will do the same job only without the brand name, and/or simply wait for a deal on a name brand item that is truely worth the cost for that name.

So, I said all that to get to my question. How may of you guys have a $30,000 impliment that only gets used once or twice a year? How many are like me and have to have expensive hand tools on hand wether needed every day or not?

Ultimately, I guess what I'm really curious about is who has the most expensive tool/item/whatever you call it, that only gets used a couple of times a year? Too, when used it has to be of the highest quality and is actually worth the expense to own (and have a high quality name brand) regardless of hugely inverse proportion of the cost -vs- the time used ????
 
My most expensive tool toy is my big lathe shown in your lathe post last week. Right now that machine would take the most of 30K to get delivered to your door. Although it rarely sits still for more than a couple days 99% of what I do on it now could be done on a $500 worn out junker lathe, bushings, washers etc. I actually "need it" maybe once a year.
 
I'm with you, I don't buy too many tools from HF, especially power tools. I buy quality tools. Some are decades old. My power tools are dewalts, delta, milwaukee. The tools in my truck tool box are worth about what the 2007 truck is worth.
 
This isnt any answer to your specific question, but is on point. I used to stock my RV or pickup etc with "cheap" tools thinking they were good enough for the truck or RV and I keep the good ones at home in my shop WRONGGGGGGGGGGGG if you think about it if you break down on the road or field and isolated from a shop or power etc (maybe in rain along the interstste grrrrrrr) THATS WHEN YOU NEED GOOD TOOLS THE MOST!!!!!!!!!

So I started stocking the RV and truck with its own dedicated set of good tools. No way I wanna haul stuff out of the shop every time I take a road trip. Of course, since they are seldom used I still need good but I dont need Snap On quality in the truck or RV. For there I often go with Craftsman or SK or Proto or Stanley or Kobalt or Husky etc etc (and 6 NOT 12 point sockets) but certainly NOT Buffalo Forge or Harbor Freight.

Fun topic

John T
 
You can spend the money and buy quality tools ONCE or you can "save" money and buy cheap tools, OVER & OVER & OVER.
 
I try to buy "GOOD" tools for the shop and tool boxes. The cheap stuff is in the tractor in the field, I have planted a lot of tools AND I AM STILL WAITING FOR THEM TO COME UP!!!!!!!
 
There's seems to be a gap in understanding between those who are tool snobs and those of us who can't afford to put thousands or even hundreds into a tool that will only get used once or twice a year. If it's your profession you can write it off and depreciate it. For Joe Average farmer/handyman out here it makes absolutely no sense to grab the credit card and go into debt for a fancy tool that will only get used once. I think you would get that.

The other part is that some of us just can't even begin to think about buying Snap On, etc. or Milwaukee in the first place. Example- I needed a heat gun. I could spend $9.00 at HF or $50.00 + at Lowes. I spent $9.00 at HF and the heat gun still works fine 5 years later and gets used almost every day all fall, winter and spring to start my diesel. I did have to tape up the cord where the cheap plastic split. My wife eventually bought me a Porter Cable heat gun at Lowes for over $60.00. It's lots nicer than the HF, but it doesn't work any better. Or take abrasive paper- I can buy the real good stuff from MSC or McMaster-Carr or I can buy the cheap HF stuff for 10% of the price. They work the same.

You have to balance out investment vs return vs real world ability to pay in the first place.
 
I write off all tools bought for farm use. Actually I rare work on anything that is NOT farm equipment.
 
I don't have any tools that cost over 1000 dollars that I can think of. Maybe a Harley flywheel truing stand but when I got it they were 500 bucks . I have almost every power tool. Most are USA made I usually never buy power tools at sales but have made exceptions for 5 dolllar Bosch sheet metal sheer. 5 dollar Milwaukee heat gun. I once had a Hitachi die grinder which the first job paid the 100 dollar price, after many uses it died. I went back to Tooltown [ USA tools] and new owners didn't carry any die grinder. Nor did any of the contractor quality tool stores. Off to Harbor Freight ---- die grinder [Hitachi copy] 30 bucks. Same die grinder but no "saftey switch" like on the Hitachi. Sometimes you end up in Harbor Freight unintentionally. If you have ever seen a Milwaukee die grinder it is a monstorus thing. I don't think of myself as a tool snob but I have spent a fortune on Snap-on . Since becoming addicted to yard and garage sales I have every known USA brand wrench. I sell tools from my trunk and all are made in USA ,none are stolen and most have Craftsman Mac, or brand warranty to new owner.Even my milling machine I paid only 900 for. Lathe 500. I don't work on large equipment but from reading the original post it does seem tool costly.
 
I am mostly a non-professional tool user, though I do maintain tractors for a couple of clients. It has been my experience that tools rarely break in storage, they fail when used. Exactly when you want it to work.

I started out with Sears electric tools before I learned the difference in much more expensive tools. In fact, the Makita router I still have dates back to when 4 Sears routers failed in the warranty year and they gave me a refund. That was almost 40 years ago. Worth the extra $120 back then? I would say so.

Is my Caterpillar 944 loader a tool? It's a 23,000 lb beast, paid for by happy customers and sits patiently waiting for me to call her back to work a few times per year. Like the Hilti SDS drill I mentioned in the other thread, bought well-used. 45 years old when she came to live here.

Without tractors, my replacement tool cost would exceed $120k. Ever price a 42" wide sander? Another antique, cost me $50 to buy, considerably more get 11,000 lbs of it here. The reason these old tools still work is the quality manufactured into them.

I would have to work a LOT harder than I prefer, to buy all new expensive tooling. Certainly not the road for everyone as I cannot rely on factory assistance when something breaks. Nobody at the Cat dealer here has ever seen a 944, much less worked on one.

I started buying machine tooling when it dawned on me that my retired machinist buddy wouldn't be around forever. Same plan, find old tools still in good shape. My metal lathe has babbitt bearings, as does my wood jointer. Neither used very often.

Interesting thread, highlighting the different needs we all perceive. My wife was happy I bought all these tools, figures I have far too many to move again. She also knows how convenient it is that I have a functioning tool at hand when I need to do something, large or small.
 
Having spent a good portion of my adult life as a professional mechanic in a dealership, I do know the value of GOOD tools. As such, I had a tool box full of Snap-on, Mac, Matco and S-K tools. All were of high quality, with the Snap-on being a bit better than the rest. HOWEVER....over the years, I have made many trips to the junkyards around as well as a goodly number of road calls for motorists in distress. In many of those cases, I ended up buying expensive replacements for missing sockets or screwdrivers that ended up getting lost in the crevices of the item I was working on. In those cases, the HF tool lost would cost a good bit less than the Snap-on tool.
Years ago, the cheap tools were pretty poorly made. Many simply were not the stated sizes, were made of inferior metal that stripped, broke, or distorted easily.
Today, many of the cheap tools will get the job done. HF now has a lifetime warranty on hand tools as does Auto Zone and others selling cheap tools.
I have found that in use, most are of good quality these days. Certainly not of the quality of Snap-on, but still of good quality. The chrome plating and luster of the tool is of secondary importance out on the road.

I keep my Snap-on tools in the garage and take the cheap stuff on the road to risk loss or theft. Just my humble opinion...
 
as with anything.. it's all application.

If i was going to buy a tool to use 1 time.. and a 1$ harbor freight worked as good as a 15$ craftsman... why pay more.

All depends on what it is.

I own cheap and expensive tools... same with test equipment.. everything from those free red vom's from HF.. to expensive lab grade 'bench' test equipment... all depends on what i'm doing.
 
I have a lot of tools that range from Snap-On to the cheap. They all have a use and a place here. Given a choice I but older used tool from tag sails and auctions.
 
Like you I thought HF stuff was junkie.
There's an electric tool that I first saw on TV made by Rockwell that vibrates. It saws, scrapes, sands etc.
HF has different versions at different prices. A few years ago I bought the cheapest on sale for $19.?? and more than paid for it the first use sanding a tight area where I would have had to do by hand. I didn't expect it to last but It's still going.
I see them on sale every once in a while now for $15.??. I am going to get another to keep me from having to switch tools.
The worse tool I have is a Snapon ratchet head for use on a 1/2" strong arm. I got it in 1969 or '70. It has always jumped out of gear allowing you to fly across the shop and has been repaired and now replaced many times.
I never even try it anymore.
 
If you buy a high quality tool and take care of it, your children will probably get a lot out of it at your estate auction. On the other hand, I have never heard anyone at an auction marvel on how the no name Taiwan socket set is a desire able buy, but the will on an SK set. That being said I have bought very good tools and cheap ones, I like the quality ones better.
Someone on here a few years ago was going to buy a cheap miter saw with the mindset that he would only really need it a few times. Someone else was pushing for a DeWalt, with the theory of "how many wrong cuts can you afford to make". I own a cheap miter saw and that argument holds water here. I wish I had one with a square fence.
It all boils down to your preference and budget.
 
I purchased a cheap right angle grinder from HF, used it once, JUNK, gear box fell apart removing disk. Purchased HF grinding disks and cutoff disks, junk,they won't hold up like dewalt cutoff disks. Purchased a HF chain saw sharpner, wouldn't work on my chain, returned it. Purchased a grinder/wet stone, MAJOR JUNK RETURNED IT. Purchased a gismo to attack to air hose to add soap to clean with, That's right JUNK. Purchased a hose to suck gas out of a can, returned it, it leaked gas. Don't pay $10 at HF for 2 pounds of made in china 6011 welding rods when you can get 5 pounds of lincoln rods at Lowes for $12.50. HF welding gloves fall apart. HF doesn't sell G70 log chains.

It's a good thing I live 3 miles from HF. Saves me gas. Most things I buy there I make 2 trips, one to buy them and one to return them. I can't understand why I get sucked into going there, buy something and then return it. One nice thing to say about HF is they don't give me a hassle when I return items, perhaps they have seen me too often.
 
I thought a lot about the harbor freight warranty when I needed some impact sockets for my work truck. Finally decided that 20 dollars vs 300 dollars was a no brainier. Don't need a recept for either one to get replaced both do the same job. I did however spend 100 dollars on a snap on test light and it was well worth it. I don't by snap on to look good, I buy when needed. On a side note I have a 1 inch to 3/4 inch impact adaptor from harbor freight that I just used on a brand new 1 inch drive impact and it took a beating and did not break. I am sure it will someday but snap on tools will break also and both have lifetime warranty.
 
A lot of times you when you need a specialty tool, you don't want a cheap one because it might not work. It always amazes me when people try to find the cheapest welding equipment they can find but then they drive a big diesel pick up with $5000 worth of wheels and tires or have some other expensive materialistic keeping up with the Jones's items.
 
In the UK we have a saying, 'only the rich can afford to buy poor quality tools first , meaning that they have money left after buying cheap, poor quality tools first time.
 
I know exactly what you mean, Wayne. I too, am a field mechanic and work out of a service truck. Ive had shop mechanics say no way would they take their expensive Snap On and Mac tools out to use in the locations and conditions we're in out there. My take is I can't afford not to as when your in a gravel pit, mud hole or whatever I have to have something that will work, not break, and be able to get the job done. After all, I bought 'em to earn a living with, I ain't running a museam. That said there are some things I feel I can get away with that are of lesser quality, example for me are large (over 2") wrenches. I've learned over the years most things I use them for are large hydraulic fittings and such. Sounds funny but I'll use and abuse a 3/4 far more and I just cant justify the expense of say $200 for one wrench that probably won't be used that hard or much. By the same token say a 3/4 inch drive 3/4 inch twelve point socket (Cummins KTA head bolts) better be the best money can buy.
Just bought a Snap On video bore scope, doesn't get used every day but when you need it it's there. By the way, always enjoy your posts, can relate to most.
 
Dad was a shop mechanic for awhile when he first started in the business, and the a field mechanic for many, many years after he had time to get his feet wet, so to speak. From that point on he would always tell me there was a big difference betweem field mechaincs and shop mechaincs. The guys in the shop may have had challanges, but a challange in a shop environment, where you can run to the parts room, or nearest parts house, is nothing compared to the same situation when your in the field 50 miles from no where. In cases like that you either find a way to make do with what you've got, or spend hours of time driving around back to the shop, or trying to find that $10 dollar tool that might take you 30 minutes to make using something you've got on the truck already.

That all said, your exactly right on the larger tools, at least as far as wrenches go, because hydraulic fittings are usually all they get used for. On the rare occasion that one gets used on something else, I'd much rather break a $50 wrench doing something I know I shouldn't do (like using a forklift or a crane to supply the turning force) in an attempt to get that last, stubborn fastener out (without using the torch) than the $500 name brand version of the same wrench. Too, like you said, there are other small tools that get used every day and HAVE to be the best available to not only withstand the use, but also to make sure you don't hurt yourself (because you know the cheap one would break the first time you used it).
 
Application, experience, and good judgement should lead all of us to purchase the tools we need to do the jobs we each want to do. We all are working with different variables, budgets, backgrounds, training, and personal experiences. When we have never or seldom done a job, a good coach is invaluable. Unfortunately, judgement seems less influenced by good coaching, but hey, some days two out of three is as good as it gets!!
 
Your comment about farming brought to mind the kind of "tools" that farmers own that only get used infrequently. Combines, planters/drills, primary tillage, hay equipment, etc... It seems that when you make a living with tools or equipment you try to own the best you afford. My personal equipment/tools may not all be the best but, nothing is more frustrating than tools or equipment that won't do the job they are designed for or that you spend all day fixing tools/equipment that broke.
 
NCWayne:

Fully Agree! But it gets even more complicated when your working on a large piece of heavy equipment (ie: Scoop-Trams, Road Headers / Continuous Miners, etc.) over 1000 feet UNDERGROUND and MILES from the Shaft.

Doc - Union Certified Top Millwright / Senior Underground Mine Maintenance Mechanic
 
Bret4207:

First time that I needed a heat gun, I borrowed the
wife's hair drier - worked great. Years later I
broke down & bought a HF heat gun as I couldn't
justify the cost of a "quality" tool that only gets
used maybe once or twice every couple of years.

Doc
 
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