Tractor/Plow Question

[Anonymous-0]

I have a 82 HP JD 2140 cab tractor 2WD and recently bought a deere F125 3-16" plows for it, 3 point hitch, i turned my sway blocks up like the book said to do, a farmer friend of mine was helping me adjust the plows to use but the problem we found was when plowing the plows are over to the right too much, in fact the first bottom isn't cutting anything at all (about in the furrow). I know the plows should be in line with the tractor, i'm sure others have had this problem, but how do you correct it? I'm thinking this isn't the right size plow for the tractor??

 

[BushogPapa]

You are going to have to move the Hitch bar to the right, or set the rear wheels out wider..

 

[Allan in NE]

Do you have the tractor's tread width set right?

Does the plow need shares; I.E. no suck?

Are you putting the plow in the ground deep enough? It has to run totally level front to back.

Do you have the hitch adjusted so that it will "float" vertically on the arms? Even tho the tractor is "cocked" and running at an angle in the furrow, the plow hitch still has to remain level.

Even tho the plow has a "tilt" adjustment, it will help if you completely unhook that center link until you get the plow leveled out. All the center link is used for is to lift it out of the ground anyway.

When adjusted right, the center link pin should just "dance" and rattle around in the eyes when the plow is in the ground. Shouldn't be any pressure on the center link in any way.

Look at the plow and make sure it isn't sprung.

Just some ideas,

Allan

 

[Anonymous-0]

Sounds like tread width is too narrow. I'm drawing a blank about how wide it's SUPPOSED to be for a 3X16" plow. Plow Manual should say, or maybe someone will jump in with that info. I'm thinking it's 29" from center of tractor to inside of sidewall, but that may be wrong.

Draft arms should trail "centered". Top link should be in line with centerline of tractor. The offset drawbar can be rotated to make plow follow correctly. Standing at the furrow side, rotate the drawbar clockwise to make the plow trail further to the left, and counter-clockwise to make it trail to the right. Most plow manuals refer to that as adjusting "width of cut". (Sounds like you MAY need "clockwise". If the plow is trailing centered, DON'T change this adjustment) Some plows come with a landing lever that will rotate the drawbar to regulate the WIDTH OF CUT of the front bottom. That adjustment should be used to make the plow run centered on the tractor's DRAFT LINE and NOT to force it to one side or the other. Once the plow is trailing correctly, the tread width should be adjusted to correct position relative to the front bottom.

 

[JBMac]

Allen,

So glad you posted that picture. I've got that same plow, or similar and didn't know what make it was. Mine appears to have had more bottoms on it at one time. There is a ragged cut on the top "spine" where maybe it had four or more bottoms. Mine lacks coulters and that furrow wheel. Does yours have landsides as well? I'm thinking that wheel along, with more tinkering may help mine stop pulling so hard to left. Think I'll go by the tractor junkyard today and see if the got one.

 

[Lou]

Yes, that top link has to be loose as a goose, took me a long time to learn that. I have to tighten or shorten that top link to travel in between fields.

Probably in this case moveing the right rear wheel out will do the trick.

 

[Anonymous-0]

Yeah i thought about moving the wheel but its bolted on and not a rack and pinion, so that would be a pain to do, i do also have a JD 1250 4 bottom plow, i haven't tried it yet but it might work better. the shares are good by the way, shins are new, plows are adjusted good, 3rd link is loose.

 

[JBruce]

I have a plow like that. Used to plow a lot with it. Didn't consider it that good a plow-like Lou had to run the tail low and raise tail to go down road or cross ditches. Finaly took the trip beams out and slipped a piece of heavy wall pipe over the trip roller raising the point of the share up and the plow ran level and would still pick up highl enough to cross ditches. Pulled easier too.

 

[wijim]

should be 16 inches from inside furrow wheel to landside of #1 bottom

 

[Dave Sherburne NY]

Found a picture of an F125 looks like the one Allen
Posted The width of cut of that front bottom is
adjusted with that long lever attached to the hitch
on the plow. The inside of the right rear wheel
should be about 29" from the center of the tractor.
Once you start plowing and with the plow in the
ground, adjust the top/center link so that the
plow is level front to back. adjust the lift arm on
the tractor so the plow is level side to side.

 

[Anonymous-0]

Problem solved, hooked up a set of 4-16's today, john deere 1250 plows and they were perfect, centered good, and plowed really good, so i'll just make the 5 bottoms i have into a 4 bottom and be good to go.