trailer flooring suggestion

[Frank Dodson]

I have a 16 foot dove tail trailer that the floor is rotten. I bought the trailer new approx. seven years ago. I have always kept in the shed while not in use. The floor was treated however it was painted so I figure the paint held the moisture in therefore it rotted. I am considering the following for replacement:
treated lumber again
fresh sawed oak
dry planed oak
pine and treat with diesel
I would appreciate your experience or suggestions..

 

[Scott-SD]

thompsons water seal works good.

 

[Matt in TN]

White oak treated with boiled linseed oil. If you can't get white oak, then clean pine, treated or not, but soaked with boiled linseed oil.

 

[MarkB_MI]

If the floor rotted out in seven years, it was NOT pressure-treated. Even if left outdoors, properly treated wood should last for 30 years, painted or not.

If you choose to go with oak, it needs to be white oak. Red oak has terrible rot resistance. If the supplier isn't willing to say their wood is white oak, then it is almost certainly red.

For maximum rot resistance, pressure treated southern yellow pine. For durability and strength, white oak.

 

[jlewis457]

oak is best for tracked or heave equipment if all you haul is rubber tired light equipment then treated pine will work

 

[Royse]

You didn't mention what you were hauling on it or how much weight.
I like rough sawn hard wood, treated with water sealer not paint.
It's not slippery and its, well, hard wood.
I personally would stay away from any soft or knotty wood.

 

[omahagreg]

White Oak! Dad built a trailer 50 years ago, never stored inside. Saw it again and said it still was good!

 

[showcrop]

I have used a fair amount of Thompson's and it certainly water proofs the wood, but I have noticed that it does not penetrate much. I also am not happy with how long it lasts, so I plan to try drain oil.

 

[onefarmer]

That floor was either not treated or not treated well enough. I put 2x6T&G on a farm wagon 20 years ago. It has been outside all this time and is just starting to show some weathering.

 

[jon f mn]

I've built a lot of trailers and unless the customer insisted I used untreated pine, or oak if I had it. The treated wood always went bad faster than untreated. Don't know why, and it should be the other way, but that is my experience. I would never waste the money for treated wood foe a trailer.

 

[Paul from MI]

Used untreated white oak on mine 15 years ago. Still looks solid as new, never had anything on it and only been inside about 1/2 the time.
Think it will outlast me by far.
Paul

 

[Anonymous-0]

I've got a 12' single axle trailer that is about 20 years old and has the original floor in it that was treated. It has always sat outside, but has been treated regularly with lindseed oil. Not a heavy use trailer, but floor is still in excellent condition.

 

[patiolant]

I've used fir with good success. Reasonable rot resistance and good strength. I treat with Thompson's water seal every two or three years if I remember.

 

[Anonymous-0]

I have tried a lot of things on wagons and trailers. Oak or yellow pine has been best. If I paint it is topside only, pressure treated pine is good. Do not use old oil or diesel on wood that sits outside, the oil holds moisture and rots the wood faster than untreated. I know, you don't believe me so pour your old oil on there Lyle will sell you more lumber.

 

[Geo-TH,In]

I had a 16 ft trailer and an 18 ft trailer. Both came from the factory with treated. Sold the 16 footer when it was 15 years old, floor still good, stayed outside.

Both trailers used boards that were the total length of the trailer. Where are you going to find a 16 foot oak or pine board unless you go with treated?

Neighbor has a 16 footer that the boards need replaced. Cost around $200 to replace with treated, either 6 or 8 inchers, just about the same price. My 18 footer has many screws holding the boards in place. His trailer the boards are held in place in the front and back only.
George

 

[Texasmark1]

I have a 30+ year old 16' tandem utility trailer that are popular around here. Original wood was non treated and spray painted when they painted the trailer...build it and paint it.

It lasted for awhile and I replaced it with treated 2x6 material from Home Depot rather than the more expensive 2x10 that came on it...just more of them.

Periodically (every couple of years or so if I think about it have nothing better to do) I mix up some linseed oil and turpentine; about 50-50. This gives you a good concentration of the oil and the other just helps it to get into the wood, then evaporates. I don't bother with the bottom and if the sides get it ok if not ok. I just brush it on.

I did not paint it for the reason you mentioned.

The trailer sits outside always and the current floor is still in excellent shape and will last many more years. No cracked or broken boards.

HTH,
Mark

 

[DoubleR]

Whatever you decide be sure to leave a gap between the boards to allow for expansion when wood gets wet. Especially if the trailer is sitting outside. I learned the hard way to do so next time.
The next deck I build will be with 2x6 womanized from the lumber yard. I have a couple of wagons I did years ago and they have held up with O maintenance.

 

[john in la]

It really depends on what you want out of the trailer floor and what you haul.

Pressure treated wood is good and will last a while if you pay attention to the fasteners you use but it can be slippery when wet. It also makes for a easy install because you can find long boards. Problem is it is made out of sap wood. A dozer track will eat it up in short order and I do not care how well it is treated it will rot over time.

If you want the best under all conditions you will need to find some old growth white oak wood like beams out of a barn but expect to pay dearly for it.
Choosing Wood for Outdoor Projects

 

[Anonymous-0]

If you keep it inside, rough sawed white oak. Treat it with a 50/50 mixture of boiled linseed oil and turpentine. On subsequent treatments I just go with straight linseed but you can cut it if desired. Treatment works best if done in the sun on a hot dry day. Soaks in and dries fast. If you have a lot of money, use cypress. Also thought it would be great to try Osage Orange. Sawed up a few boards and it is incredibly tough and weather resistant. Also probably would attract attention/comment at any show.

 

[Texasmark1]

John, I never had, felt, knew of, or experienced any wood that was planed off (not rough sewn) that wasn't slick when wet. My local HD store is right down the road. I don't have a saw mill nearby and down here processed hardwoods aren't that plentiful. I know better than to fool around on wet wood unless I am wearing marine deck shoes.

But I never figured out the construction differences between white, red, and live oaks. But that really doesn't matter as the last time I used it when I was a teen building a boat and using it for framing and I used white....because it was available at the marine wood store where I got my Philippine mahogany for the bottom, sides, and deck. I used a purple 2 part glue, forget the name, but it would tear the wood apart before it would separate.

Mark

 

[Frank Dodson]

Thanks for the help. I only haul small rubber tire tractors (Oliver 550, Farmall Cub, Yanmar 1401 etc,) and some small equipment. These were great suggestions.

 

[36 Coupe]

White oak is the wood to use.Hard to find here but I saw some once in a while.Red oak makes nice indoor wood but it dosent weather.