Trailer Ramps

[Lanse]

Goodevening everyone!!

Well, Ive been contacted by someone looking for a set of removable ramps for his trailer. He says he will have the occasional load that will hang off the back, and because of that, regular "hinged" ramps aren't going to work.

So, this will be interesting. How does one come up with ramps that are easily removable? I want them to somehow "anchor" to the back of the trailer.

The best I can figure, is going to be getting a length of angle, and putting it across the back of the trailer. I will gusset it for extra strength, and gusset it in many places. If the angle is only like 1.5" or 2", it should hold a lot, right? lol.

Im just looking for thoughts here, Ive never built any kind of "removable" trailer accessory.

Also, I wonder what the standard "distance" is for cross-members on a trailer ramp. Using 3" angle, I think that putting the cross-members 6" apart should create a nice "surface" for one to drive up...

After the ramps are put together, Ill have to come up with some sort of a rack to hold these ramps, but that sounds like the easy part of the job.

Anyway, I hope this trailer job doesn't turn out like the last one. A few weeks back, someone contacted me about getting another, longer, tongue built for his trailer. Turns out the square tubing I would have had to buy isnt cheap, and he didnt want to put much money into this. Oh well, can't win them all...

Thanks in advance you guys, You all are the best. Im hoping theres someone whos built something like what we're thinking of here... Have a good week, everyone

 

[JMS/.MN]

Ramps should have legs underneath them to support the trailer, especially needed if the trailer is not attached. The leg needs to angle forward far enough so the base is forward of the rear end of trailer. Otherwise it offers no support, and the trailer hitch will raise. I made the sides of my ramps using 3 inch channel, with quarter by two inch angles between. Six inch spacing sounds a bit wide. My spacers are welded in as an inverted "V", not an "L".

 

[Jim in Ma.]

My ramps are like JMS's - They are connected to the back of the trailer with 3/4" id. pipe welded there. I can swing them up or pull 2 (3/4") pins to take them off.
My first set just hade a grove to sit into but would sometimes jump off.
Good luck

 

[Anonymous-0]

What is going up the ramps? I made the ramps for my trailer out of 2" square tubing with 1/4"x2" angle cross members and 3" channel supports for when the ramps are down. 6" is about right for spacing with the V of the angle facing up. Sometimes I have to back up for the ramps to go down all the way but unless the trailer has a bulldog coupler, it's hard on a standard coupler. They aren't designed for lifting on the ball. That's why most horse trailers use bulldog couplers. I have brackets welded on the back of the trailer and use a heavy wall pipe for the pins. The ramps have a 2" pipe that the pins go through. The pins are wider than the ramps so the ramps can be adjusted for width. To take the ramps off, you just need to remove a couple 3/8" bolts in the ends of the pins. The other end of the pin has a short piece of 2" pipe welded on for a stop. I made supports to hold the ramps up out of 3/8"x 2" flat bar. 1/4" seemed too flimsy.

 

[Dick2]

Don't forget about liability insurance. You know that he is going to put more hang-over weight on the ramps that they can possibly carry. So the ramps will collapse, someone may get injured when the stuff falls off and you will get blamed (and sued).

It's nice to be creative and make things, but you are exposing yourself to danger that could put you in debt for the rest of your life.

 

[Bryan inIowa]

I made mine out ot 2 in angle for the frame . I used two 6inch wide strips of sure grip? Expanded metal they use to make stair steps out of. These run lengthwise inside the angle frame . NOTHING slips on these and work great for all kinds of vehicles. On top end I have 2 1/4 x 3/16 falt strap across the face , hangs down on the bottom 3/8ths or so to lay into angle iron running across back of trailer . Never had one come off yet . simplely weld sngle iron under trailer to carry/store ramps . Pin or tap to lock in place . Some make these so the ramps go in from the side .

 

[dixon boy RL]

does this trailer have stops or drop down legs on it. that waht you need to load nay thrailer safely. if you choose to do this project go to your local implement dealer and get set of implement jacks,side crank style weld the weld on ring on each side of trailer. these work really slick and will become thetrailers swing down loading stands. ramps i made slipped over 2x1/4 flat bar spaced out 1"or so with spacers welded in place.When you use angle iron welded across the back,which alot of outfits do it always has tendency to fill up with hay ,rocks dirt ,etc. flat bar will not. ramps themselves were channel ironsides angle iron treads. biggest issue is they will be heavy to carry or slide into storage. also does this trailer have a dovetail? good luck

 

[Puddles]

(quoted from post at 19:49:53 02/12/12)Well, Ive been contacted by someone looking for a set of removable ramps for his trailer. He says he will have the occasional load that will hang off the back, and because of that, regular "hinged" ramps aren't going to work.

Lanse building the ramps is a piece of cake. Building them that will hold the weight of something on the ramps while they are cantilevered is going to be a engineering nightmare! I can picture a head frame, or stations with wire rope running through sheaves holding up the ramps. Google a ramp barge and you'll see what I mean.

I'm sure you haven't heard these next three terms but in time you will hear them thousands of times.

Industry standards.

Built to plans, and specifications.

Acceptable risk.

Industry standards, is the term a prosecuting attorney is going to shove down your throat if you take on this project without engineered drawings.

Build to plans, and specification, you will hear this term a million times in your life. Engineers love to through this statement around. If you do not build a product to plans and specifications you just may own the product when it's completed, and never get paid for it.

Acceptable risk, the company I worked for could easily bond for billion dollar projects, but they would never take on a project of that size without joint venturing with another contractor. They wanted someone else to help absorb any loses if need be.
My company was bidding a big bridge project in California one time. They had $250,000.00 in estimating labor into the bid, when Caltrans sent out an amendment to the specifications to the project. The owner of my company refused to bid the job. Walked away from $250,000.00. Just because the risks were too high.

Now if you want to build the ramps, I can take pictures, and measurements of the two different styles I have on my trailers. But myself I wouldn't touch this project without engineered drawings!

 

[cd1]

It sounds like you want to just put a set of removable ramps on the trailer with a rack underneath to slide them in for storage (eaZy peazy), how are people coming up with "cantilevered loads" on these ramps. You might want to clarify to the audience what is going on.

 

[Puddles]

I took it as the load would be on the ramps. If not, the ramp design on my dump trailer should work.

 

[sotxbill]

welded a piece of sucker rod full width of rear with helpers on each end and each quarter way across. the ramps were notched and removeable by hanging notched ends over sucker rod. could move them left or right as needed. mounted ramps on sides of trailer via a notch in side of ramp and a tounge welded to the side rails.. use a tractor clip to keep em from bouncing off when stored just inside of rails laying sideways.

trick is how long are ramps.. too long and they bend. too short and they are too steep.

 

[Puddles]

Lanse here are the pictures of the flatbed trailer's ramps. It is a 1 1/2-inch solid round bar for the pins.

 

[JMS/.MN]

The legs on those ramps need to angle forward, in front of the pivot....otherwise the trailer will rise up when you drive up the ramps.

 

[MF294-4]

Lanse, my trailer has ramps that are stored under the right side behind the wheels. Have to pull them out and carry them around to the back. They are made of angle and hook over a lip. Have to put a sissor jack under the rear so it doesn"t put a negative load on the hitch. I"m getting to old for those ramps. Boy do I want a tilt trailer!!!!!!!

 

[Anonymous-0]

My ramps are very similar to Puddles except made from 2" square tube with 2" angle iron cross members. The 3" channel legs point straight down when the ramps are down an I've never had the front of the trailer come up, even when loading a 12,000lb JD 335D crawler.

 

[Puddles]

Lanse here is another way to build a hinge for ramps. When I built the 14-foot flatbed dump for my F-550 I added this hinge system. I bought some of those cheap Harbor Freight ramps, and added four pieces of flatbar to each ramp. I made a cross beam out of C-channel with two trailer tongue jacks, to help carry the load because the ramps were too light duty to carry the weight of my tractor. Really red neck, :lol: but it worked until I sold the truck.

 

[scotc]

Puddle's flatbed's ramps are about what you are looking for, I think, if it's a heavier trailer. One suggestion I would make though, is instead of having the tube across the end of the ramp like his, plate the end of the channel or whatever it is you build it out of, put a hole in it, and put a third support on the back of the trailer. Those pins can and will bend.

Also, built a straight ramp, then use some channel to make an "L" under the hinge point. It will make it easier to stow the ramp when it's pulled off under a long load.

Isn't there a big trailer place over by Richmond or up by Troy? Maybe you could run over there and have a look at some trailers.