Anonymous-0
Well-known Member
I work for Ohio Dot and the chain should be rated strong enough to lift 1 1/2 times the weight of the cargo to be tied down and should have at least 2 tie downs. I forget the gauge of chain, but it is gold in color. That is the highest rated and what we use for all of our equipment at work. I will try to find the gauge for you.
ScottyHOMeY
Well-known Member
That gold chain would be Grade 70 and for your load, you'll need it in 3/8", with binders to match.
I can't find the link I was thinking would be helpful to you, but .if you search around over on the tractor hauling board, you can find a reference to the DOT requirements.
I can't find the link I was thinking would be helpful to you, but .if you search around over on the tractor hauling board, you can find a reference to the DOT requirements.
Anonymous-0
Well-known Member
Section 393.108 of the Federal Motor Carrier Safety Regulations deals with the working load limit for tie downs. 5/16 Grade 70 transport chain is rated at 4700 lbs. 2 chains that size with the correct binders would give you a little extra capacity. I never use anything less than 5/16 Garde 70 chains and always over center load binders. The ratchet binder are OK in some situations but must be properly lubricated. I much prefer the over center type.
Anonymous-0
Well-known Member
3/8 G43 (high test) is rated at 5400 Lbs. Don't buy chains at a farm store like TSC. These stores are way over priced. Buy chains and binders at a dealers that sells semi trailers. You will be able to get the chains you need at a much better price.
Larry, I don't know DOT regs., You could inquire at your state Dot. I spent quite a few years flying cargo aircraft--my job was to tie cargo and vehicles (including heavy equipment, forklifts and such) in the airplane for flight. There isn't room on this reply to explain it but if you email me I could email you back some tie down diagrams and explinations out of my flight manuals. hope I can help. Mike
ScottyHOMeY
Well-known Member
The chains you have are not DOT spec but will hold your load just fine as long as the hooks are of at least the same grade AND if you have enough of them.
Best way is to have two pieces of chain (You've got 16 footers which is long -- use each one like two individual chains by binding down the ends with a piece hanging slack in the middle) on the back of the tractor (axle housings are better (stronger than the drawbar) and at least one on the front. If your trailer is short, use two sections of chain on each end, with the chains pulling toward the middle of the tractor instead of off the ends. Bear in mind that you can stop faster than you can accelerate, so it's as important (if not more so) to have it tied down so that it can't break loose going forward and into your truck as it is to keep it from rolling off the back. A lot of folks will throw an extra chain hand tight (i.e., no binder) on to keep it from rolling back in case something fails.
The over-center binders are the ones with the big lever, that cams over to tension the chain. Less costly than the ratchet style, but a tad harder to get and keep tight. Always helps to have a 3 or 4-foot pice of pipe to use as a lever in pulling them down.
Whatever binder you use, stop after 10 miles or so and re-tighten anything that has slackened, and again at 50 miles, and then every time you stop for fuel or a haircut.
Best way is to have two pieces of chain (You've got 16 footers which is long -- use each one like two individual chains by binding down the ends with a piece hanging slack in the middle) on the back of the tractor (axle housings are better (stronger than the drawbar) and at least one on the front. If your trailer is short, use two sections of chain on each end, with the chains pulling toward the middle of the tractor instead of off the ends. Bear in mind that you can stop faster than you can accelerate, so it's as important (if not more so) to have it tied down so that it can't break loose going forward and into your truck as it is to keep it from rolling off the back. A lot of folks will throw an extra chain hand tight (i.e., no binder) on to keep it from rolling back in case something fails.
The over-center binders are the ones with the big lever, that cams over to tension the chain. Less costly than the ratchet style, but a tad harder to get and keep tight. Always helps to have a 3 or 4-foot pice of pipe to use as a lever in pulling them down.
Whatever binder you use, stop after 10 miles or so and re-tighten anything that has slackened, and again at 50 miles, and then every time you stop for fuel or a haircut.
I apperiated your reply and information given. I think the binder with long lever and a cheater bar extension as I call them.. lol will do right for me. Not interested in getting stop cause of being to cheap are lazy to get correct items needed. ....Besides that .. if I had a wreck cause I did not tie it down right.. my wife would never let me hear the end of it.."ever" lol Thanks again
Clint Youse MO
Member
use the grade 70 chain if you get stopped or have an accident you will be better off and hook one going in each direction if you are not familiar with using the break over binder have somebody show you they can be highly dangerous underload they have hurt people real bad that used them wrong where are you in MO I live about 30 miles east of Hannibal if close I could possibly help and the local implement dealers usually have the grade 70 chain
big hunter
Member
In Maryland hauling equipment you must have a chain and binder at all four corners. you need at least 4 chains and 4 binders, running the chain from one side to the other with a binder doesn't cut it here. Also if you have a backhoe or something with hydraulics that could move you must also tie down the boom, dipper, bucket or whatever to keep it from moving.
Yep Maryland requires everything you stated.
BUT they also have changed their law on the chain that is allowed, you must use grade 70 chain for equipment when traveling in and through Maryland.
The State boys have a little gadget that is about the size of a pack of smokes.
They put it next to the chain, push a button and it will let them know the grade of the chain you are using.
Learned this from a State Trooper, AFTER he issued a ticket to me for using the improper grade chain.
Took it to court and lost.
Bought grade 70 chains, and have had no problems since.
BUT they also have changed their law on the chain that is allowed, you must use grade 70 chain for equipment when traveling in and through Maryland.
The State boys have a little gadget that is about the size of a pack of smokes.
They put it next to the chain, push a button and it will let them know the grade of the chain you are using.
Learned this from a State Trooper, AFTER he issued a ticket to me for using the improper grade chain.
Took it to court and lost.
Bought grade 70 chains, and have had no problems since.
Forgot to add this to my other post.
When I went to court in Maryland the judge told me that DOT regs are setup by the feds, BUT each state has the right to set or make their standards to be above the federal standards.
You might want to check the regs of any state that you plan to travel in or through, it may save you some money.
After paying the fine, court cost, losing a day from work, etc., I quickly found out that the price of grade 70 chain a LOT less.
When I went to court in Maryland the judge told me that DOT regs are setup by the feds, BUT each state has the right to set or make their standards to be above the federal standards.
You might want to check the regs of any state that you plan to travel in or through, it may save you some money.
After paying the fine, court cost, losing a day from work, etc., I quickly found out that the price of grade 70 chain a LOT less.
Anonymous-0
Well-known Member
I haul tracked skid steers weighing 8000-10,000lbs at least weekly, daily in the summer. Others have helped you a lot--use nothing but the BEST chain as they have told you. Tie down all 4 corners and throw a chain over any attached imp as well.
As far as binders: The over-center binders you use a pipe on are not only dangerous, but a pain as well. You can get hurt, they are sometimes tough to get right--one link is too loose and the next link is WAY tight. In many instances,you need to wire the handle down. They sometime spin to where it is hard to get the pipe back on to loosen. If needed re-tightened,you then have to unwire the handle, get the pipe back out, re-wire the handle,etc. Plus there are cheap ones that will bend/spread apart at the hinge mechanism.
A good quality ratchet binder is safer and easier to use. Yes, they must be lubricated occasionally. The best thing about them is that when you check them after a few miles,all you have to do is ratchet the handle a little--no fumbling with wire, pipe, and no wild SNAP when taking them off.
Buy good quality chains and binders, and have brakes and lights on your trailer. Re-check the load after a few miles and bumps in the road.
As far as binders: The over-center binders you use a pipe on are not only dangerous, but a pain as well. You can get hurt, they are sometimes tough to get right--one link is too loose and the next link is WAY tight. In many instances,you need to wire the handle down. They sometime spin to where it is hard to get the pipe back on to loosen. If needed re-tightened,you then have to unwire the handle, get the pipe back out, re-wire the handle,etc. Plus there are cheap ones that will bend/spread apart at the hinge mechanism.
A good quality ratchet binder is safer and easier to use. Yes, they must be lubricated occasionally. The best thing about them is that when you check them after a few miles,all you have to do is ratchet the handle a little--no fumbling with wire, pipe, and no wild SNAP when taking them off.
Buy good quality chains and binders, and have brakes and lights on your trailer. Re-check the load after a few miles and bumps in the road.
jim in N M
Member
A TRUE story, A driver in the lumber yard I worked at pulled down on a snapover binder using a pipe. Fell on his butt,noticed the end of the binder was gone. The piece must have flew straight up in the air,couple seconds later it hit him right on top of the head,,,,,eight stiche's............. True story saw it with my own eyes........Jim in N M
sammy the RED
Well-known Member
GRADE 70 TRANSPORT CHAIN
Load ratings for grade 70 chain average 20% higher than grade 43 chain, so a smaller size chain can be used for many jobs. Primarily for load binding in the transportation industry, it is also used extensively on farms, in lumbering, towing and construction. Yellow Dichromate carbon steel.
fixerupper
Well-known Member
When we haul combines we ALWAYS use 70 chains,double wrapped on each end and double chained, one by each wheel.The long trailers we use flex and the combines are riding on big squishy tires, creating a situation where the chains will go slack and then snap tight again if the trucker lets the clutch out a little fast or the brakes are pumped a little quick. Many times we have stopped to check chains, only to find at least one snapped and dragging on the road. We could block them up,but that's just more stuff to keep track of, and securing the blocks so they don't move would take another half hour. These girls are loaded and unloaded all summer long.
Ratchet binders don't seem to hold up unless they're gigantic, so we use the kind of binders that have a loose handle after they snap over. It's kind of hard to explain but I'm sure a few of you have used them. They're expensive and hard to find,but they're just a little safer. The handles are double wired. We never use a pipe to pull them. Binder bars, or whatever the nickname is, are used always. You can control the twisting just a little bit better with them, and if the end of the handle hits something before the binder is snapped over, your buddy can stomp on the binder handle to complete the job.
There's a tramendous amount of energy stored up in those things, as you guys already know, and there's no completely safe way to use them. So far nobody's lost any teeth from a flying binder bar but one guy caught it in the head once. It made an awful sound but he just rubbed his head and kept on working.Jim
Ratchet binders don't seem to hold up unless they're gigantic, so we use the kind of binders that have a loose handle after they snap over. It's kind of hard to explain but I'm sure a few of you have used them. They're expensive and hard to find,but they're just a little safer. The handles are double wired. We never use a pipe to pull them. Binder bars, or whatever the nickname is, are used always. You can control the twisting just a little bit better with them, and if the end of the handle hits something before the binder is snapped over, your buddy can stomp on the binder handle to complete the job.
There's a tramendous amount of energy stored up in those things, as you guys already know, and there's no completely safe way to use them. So far nobody's lost any teeth from a flying binder bar but one guy caught it in the head once. It made an awful sound but he just rubbed his head and kept on working.Jim
As per DOT regulations #"s 393.106(D) & table 393.108. If you were to use #3,30 or 300(all are the same chain, just differnt ways they are aloud to mark them) or unmarked chain. You would have to use a minimum size of 3/8" chain, if you use #4,43 or 430(again,all the same), you would use a mimimum size of 1/4" chain, anjd #7,70,700 a minimum of 1/4" chain. Every link on the chain and the hooks all have to have these markings on them. If any one of the links don"t have the markings on it, the whole chain is rated as #30 or below chain. The binders have to be sized for the chain that they are used on. Using a pipe on a over-center type binder is illegal.
If DOT wants too be a pain, they can have you open the binder (they will let you use a pipe)then reclose(relock)without the use of a pipe. If you can"t, they can give you a ticket for overstressing the chain/binder. Now, when you go to court, you just have to prove that it was"nt overstressed.
If DOT wants too be a pain, they can have you open the binder (they will let you use a pipe)then reclose(relock)without the use of a pipe. If you can"t, they can give you a ticket for overstressing the chain/binder. Now, when you go to court, you just have to prove that it was"nt overstressed.
Allan in NE
Well-known Member
Just don't understand how you folks can live all piled up in a mangled heap of humanity like that.
Does DOT dictate how many sheets and the thickness of the toilet paper too?
Geeeze! What a nightmare.
Allan
Does DOT dictate how many sheets and the thickness of the toilet paper too?
Geeeze! What a nightmare.
Allan
Anonymous-0
Well-known Member
I am sure glad I don't live where you guys do.
The chain thing is nuts.
When I moved down here I pulled up on the scales with a pickup and a gooseneck...trooper told me to get the h&^% off his scales. They were for commercial trucks. I was wasting his time.
Only time you will see a guy with a pickup pulled over down here is if he is hauling something non-farm related with farm tags...or he is doing something really dumb.
All I do is load it, balance it a little heavy on the truck, strap it and run. Never, ever had a DOT get involved anywhere.
The chain thing is nuts.
When I moved down here I pulled up on the scales with a pickup and a gooseneck...trooper told me to get the h&^% off his scales. They were for commercial trucks. I was wasting his time.
Only time you will see a guy with a pickup pulled over down here is if he is hauling something non-farm related with farm tags...or he is doing something really dumb.
All I do is load it, balance it a little heavy on the truck, strap it and run. Never, ever had a DOT get involved anywhere.
Allan in NE
Well-known Member
That's the way it is here. Ya mind your own kitchen and ya take care of yourself.
Can't even begin to tell ya where the closest scale is unless it would be down there on I-80 maybe?
See those portable scales set up from time to time, but they don't want anything to do with a pickup or a farm truck; they're watchin' the big rigs.
Allan
Can't even begin to tell ya where the closest scale is unless it would be down there on I-80 maybe?
See those portable scales set up from time to time, but they don't want anything to do with a pickup or a farm truck; they're watchin' the big rigs.
Allan
sammy the RED
Well-known Member
Bill46, Why don't you fill in your location so we all know where "[color=blue:0aa2939d2f]Down Here[/color:0aa2939d2f]" is ?
Thanks.
SparepartsTN
Member
Larry,
A lot of good information coming your way! I spent many years hauling new and used equipment(plus whatever else would fit on my stepdeck trailer), all over the U.S. and much of Canada. I think Scotty came closest to a comprehensive answer, although I would add this: one chain on each corner of tractor with the other end of each hooked to the opposite side of trailer at an angle. You can hook them either under the tractor in a "X" pattern or in front and in back of the tractor to prevent forward, rearward and sideways movement. Example: hook one end on the left side axle and the other end to the trailer on the opposite side 2 or 3 feet in front or back of the tire. That allows some vertical movement to help prevent chain damage, I never had any equipment move or damaged the tie down equipment. The snap over type binder will work fine with rubber tire equipment since you can guage the tension by how much the tire compresses, however the handles do swivel into an awkward position if the chain is twisted when you bind it down(Skidhauler knows what he is talking about). The ratchet binders are a little slower to work with, but much safer and you can more accrurately adjust them on a hard object without doing the "half link" trick with the chains. To open them just hook one end on the trailer side rail, hold the other hook and spin the handle; there is a hole at the base of the handle to oil the ratchet pawl and put some Never-sieze on the threaded rods and they will work fine.
Harbor Freight Tools just sent a sale flyer that has 5/16-20 ft. grade 70 chain for $25. each with hooks, and 9200 lb. ratching binders for $20. each.
Find your local truck tire dealer, they may have used rubber rim liners(used with tubes) to give you, cut them into 2 foot lengthes to put between the chains and equipment so you won"t damage the paint.
Whatever you do, be safe.
Warren
A lot of good information coming your way! I spent many years hauling new and used equipment(plus whatever else would fit on my stepdeck trailer), all over the U.S. and much of Canada. I think Scotty came closest to a comprehensive answer, although I would add this: one chain on each corner of tractor with the other end of each hooked to the opposite side of trailer at an angle. You can hook them either under the tractor in a "X" pattern or in front and in back of the tractor to prevent forward, rearward and sideways movement. Example: hook one end on the left side axle and the other end to the trailer on the opposite side 2 or 3 feet in front or back of the tire. That allows some vertical movement to help prevent chain damage, I never had any equipment move or damaged the tie down equipment. The snap over type binder will work fine with rubber tire equipment since you can guage the tension by how much the tire compresses, however the handles do swivel into an awkward position if the chain is twisted when you bind it down(Skidhauler knows what he is talking about). The ratchet binders are a little slower to work with, but much safer and you can more accrurately adjust them on a hard object without doing the "half link" trick with the chains. To open them just hook one end on the trailer side rail, hold the other hook and spin the handle; there is a hole at the base of the handle to oil the ratchet pawl and put some Never-sieze on the threaded rods and they will work fine.
Harbor Freight Tools just sent a sale flyer that has 5/16-20 ft. grade 70 chain for $25. each with hooks, and 9200 lb. ratching binders for $20. each.
Find your local truck tire dealer, they may have used rubber rim liners(used with tubes) to give you, cut them into 2 foot lengthes to put between the chains and equipment so you won"t damage the paint.
Whatever you do, be safe.
Warren
I have things figured out now. Want to thank all who commented here. .. Seem to be some difference of opinion on some. So I hope I have not caused any one to be upset with another over me wanting to know this knowledge. Thank you all.
As for where I live.. I am down at Lake of Ozarks here in Missouri on the north west side.
As for where I live.. I am down at Lake of Ozarks here in Missouri on the north west side.
Clint Youse MO
Member
Larry at the LAke you could drive up to Eldon, MO They have a New Holland Dealer, Crown Power they keep chain or all there stores did three years ago when I worked for them Ask for Steve in Parts good guy should fix you up on the chain
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