tranny lube

the TE 20 came from the factory with GL-1 mineral oil. However over the years many improvements have been made in the oils and now many owners are using 15W30 or 15W40 (not diesel) in the transmission, hydraulics and rear end. The fill hole for all 3 are on top of the transmission the big nut to the left of the gearshift. If the inside does not have sludge build up in it it will hold six gallons you should only put four gallons in then wait a few minutes then put in the last two gallons very slowly as there is a small hole that the oil has to flow through to get into the rear end. With the tractor on level ground you can take one of the bottom bolts out of either the left or right side of the inspection side covers. when the oil just starts to drip out of that hole it has the correct amount of oil in there. When the oil starts to drip out check your oil dip stick to see if it shows it is full, you may or may not have the correct dip stick.
 
I would stay with gl-1 90wt.
that is the oil that was designed for your tractor.

there are bronze bearings in the transmission that must have this type oil for proper lube,

the newer oils will not properly lube these bronze bearings

new tractors do not have bronze bearing in the trans, so they use a different type oil.

your tractor trans will run awhile on the newer oils, but long term i would use gl-1

why would you want to take a chance,
napa has the gl-1 at a reasonable price.
 
90W gear oil is the same viscosity as 40W motor oil. Also - the reason why GL1 is often mentioned is not because of lack of lube. GL1 gives less wear protection, not more. That's because it lacks the EP (extreme pressure) additives that sometimes can corrode yellow metal (brass, copper, etc.).

Many newer GL5 transmission oils now are yellow-metal safe and GL5 give better wear protection then the old GL1. GL1 is also a "no-longer-verified" API rating so anybody can call their oil GL1.

If you really want GL1 - Tractor Supply sells it as "SAE 90W Ford Transmission oil." Also, non-degergent 40W motor oil is often the same thing as 90W GL1 gear oil.
 
If you use 15W/30 Multi-grade low detergent oil (as
in a petrol engine not diesel) it will stay fluid at
low temperatures unlike the GL1 type oil. It also
has better lubricating
qualities....John(UK)[email protected]
 

old texan,

do your own goggle research on GL-1 oil

note: many of these newer oils have EP additives
your old trans is full of yellow metal, now do you really want to pour an oil in your trans that is going to be corrosive to your yellow metal.

believe me, yellow metal is important to you and your old tractor transmission, it's not the hyd system that you are going to ruin, its your transmission.

but, its your transmission, you put any oil you want to into it.

my note is just a heads up!!!!!!
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It is extremely important to note that EP additives are corrosive to yellow metals such as copper or brass in bushings and synchronizers. GL1 is the class of gear oils that does not* contain any EP additives.

gl-1 oil has worked fine for 50+ years why change.

Good luck with that new fangle oil,
 
You ask "gl-1 oil has worked fine for 50+ years why change."

I can think of at least three reasons:

#1. The API standard of GL1 is no longer monitored or verified. 50 years ago it was.

#2. Many modern GL4 and GL5 oils are yellow metal safe. This too has changed in 50 years.

#3. EP oil gives better wear protection as found with GL4 and GL5 oil.
 
If you use 15W/30 Multi-grade oil it will remain fluid at low temperatures and is a better lubricating oil than the original GL1 type. They would not specify GL1 oil now if the tractor was still in production as there are much better oils, they used that because there was nothing else 60 years ago..John(UK)[email protected]
 
So, does anyone know of any modern GL-5's which are advertised as yellow metal safe? Have any manufacturers gone on record as saying their GL-5 oils are safe with our tractors?
 
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