Tune up items

Anonymous-0

Well-known Member
Hi Guys,
Recently I replaced plugs, points, and distributer cap. My Front mount 6volt 9N is still groaning as I try and start it. It will start, but reluctantly. I know 12 volt system would help, but tuned properly 6 volt system should start up right away correct?

As winter approaches here in MN I'm concerned a reluctant starting tractor in October will tell me to take a hike in January.

Any one have some additional tips and pointers for getting my 9N to start more eagerly?

Thanks,
PTG
 
Make sure you have the correct size battery cables, that all connections are clean and tight to include the area where the stater mounts. Also check your timing.

Rick (in that forsaken frozen wasteland call Mn too)
 
make sure that your battery is charged well. make sure you have good spark. make sure that fuel isn't restricted...check by letting it 'flow' out the bottom of the carb for good bit. hey, Bruce do you have your standard reply ready? others with details?
mine was groaning last year and i replaced starter, cleaned off all elec connections, new plugs, points, condenser, coil, cap, rotor, cleaned carb.....but all that i probably needed to do was get the battery charged up.
 
I will check battery charge and connections and post back later. I will also double check timing again.

PTG
 
If you stick to 6v and points it will start in cold MN weather. So says a Texan! Anyhow, I use for exhibit A from Ed S. of IL starting a frontmount at about 0 degrees last winter.

Here would be my checklist for what you want:

Make sure the motor oil is not too thick. 15-40 or even a thinner winter variety. I have used JD oil this year and I think it is a special blend Rotella from Shell, and I have been impressed. Of course a Texas summer is 180* from a MN winter. Outside of a rec. from one the fellows here, I would drop by the JD tractor dealer and ask them what they recommend for their machinery. It should work just fine for your cold winters in your 8n

How old is your 6v battery? Have it tested at JD or some place that can test 6vs and if weak, replace with a JD 6v, a Decca East Penn 6v Gr 1, or if you want to spend the money, one of those Optima batteries. They are pricey.

Get a good set of points, condenser, and rotor from NAPA, New Holland, or Standard Ignition Blue Streak. Part numbers to follow at the end. (Do not buy Tisco tune-up kit.)

Spark plugs H-12 (512 on box) from Champion or AL437 from Autolite. NAPA or any parts house can fix you up easily.

Your resistor and coil works--or it don't--if it works and it sounds like it does, ride the horse until it quits.

Clean you connections. All from the generator to the voltage regulator, to the battery to the top of the coil, and any junctions in between. If you are mechanically adept enough, and you have a couple of nuts for the long bolts, remove the starter and take a wire wheel on an angle grinder and buff the surface where your starter meets the block. That is a grounding point. Don't yank the starter out all the way without the nuts on the bolts. The starter will come apart in your hands otherwise; not good.

Check your anti-freeze and if you cannot remember the last time you changed it go get you some 50/50 or mix it yourself with a stronger concentration. I like JD anti-freeze, but the NAPA house brand is good too, and so is, in all likelihood the Tractor Supply Traveler house brand. In the same vein, do you have a thermostat in the upper radiator hose? If not, probably worth putting one in. Pointy end facing the radiator; you will need a zip tie or hose clamp to hold it in place. The thermostat is optional if you don't have time or money.

If your hydraulic/transmission fluid is the old GL1 90w mineral oil, the hydraulics will work--slowly. In MN, I would probably use the MC 134-D rated universal hydraulic fluid from TSC or New Holland.

Finally, give the girl a good greasing.

I imagine others will offer more or different recommendations, but those are my thoughts. Now the parts list

Points:
NAPA #CS35
Standard Ignition Blue Streak #FD-6769X (Premium)
Condensor:
NAPA #FA200
Standard Ignition #FD-71
Rotor:
NAPA #FA300
Standard Ignition #FD-104
 
A 12v conversion will be of great help if it has poor compression; see my response below to RDH for doing a compression check.

If the engine has good compression (above 90) it will start & run just fine on 6v IF you have everything in good working order.

So, start checking both fuel & spark.

First, check for fuel. Get a can & put it under the carb. Remove the bolt in the bottom of the carb; as long as the fuel is turned on, you should see gas flowing out of the carb. Let it run for at least 30 seconds. If it’s a dribble, or runs for 5 seconds & stops, or none at all, you have solved half the problem: it’s fuel related. See tip # 45. If gas flows well out of the carb & only stops when you turn it off at the sediment bowl, chances are very good it’s not a fuel problem.

Next, make sure you are getting good spark.

Check out tips 27, 41 & 42. A 6v system is very unforgiving of small battery cables & poor grounds.

Lastly, do check the timing. If you've never done that on a frontmount, post back.
50 Tips
 
PTG,

Make sure all you electrical connections are "clean, bright, and tight". As someone below said, make sure the ground between the starter and block is good. A 6 volt system is less forgiving of dirty connections than a 12 volt system. If your wiring is old, you might consider a new wiring harness. This gives you the chance to make sure every connection is good and that no wires are internally corroded.

Good luck,
Danny
 
Just a thought.. Have you ever had your starter apart? i had another tractor (not Ford) one time that was real slow turning over. had the starter rebuilt and the guy said it was pretty gunked up inside. Put it back on with new bat,big cables, and away she went.. not saying this is your problem but you may want to check it out..
 
Just a thought.. Have you ever had your starter apart? i had another tractor (not Ford) one time that was real slow turning over. had the starter rebuilt and the guy said it was pretty gunked up inside. Put it back on with new bat,big cables, and away she went.. not saying this is your problem but you may want to check it out..
 
my 48 6v starts up fine at 15 below since the tune up. i do put the trickle charger on the batt and go easy on the choke. to little choke is easy to fix, to much is a pain
 
Just to encourage you that it is possible, my "48 started at -15 last winter on 6V system- the way it was designed to and it"s no beauty contest winner, either. I leave it outside under a tarp to keep the snow (or rain) off. I DON"T use starting fluid, I DO use the old Ford 90W gear oil in the tranny and 10W30 year-round in engine. I replaced the points and plugs 4 years ago with the dread TSC junk but I carefully set the timing and I have no problems. There is an art to starting in the cold though, to avoid flooding. I also block the clutch out while it sits because my shaft seal leaks but I only let it run a minute or two that way when it is very cold "til I know it"ll keep idling in neutral.

fwiw
kevin (in iowa)
 
Afterthought: In addition to the points and plugs I replaced the coil and rotor -also from TSC. The bad coil is what prompted the whole electrical tune up in the first place.

kevin
 
As others have said make sure your stater is in good condition and you have properly thick bat cables. I also managed to shoehorn in an oversize heavy duty truck 6V battery, that helps a lot when it gets really cold.
 
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