turbos and fuel

[Anonymous-0]

I previously posted that I had a 4240 with a M&W turbo and was wondering what the pyro should run at. I just fixed the heater aand moved the front wheels in and took it out on the road and up the hill by my house to see if the alignment was good and make sure the heater works. I got the pyro to about 1150* then backed out of it and it seemed to run around 900* in road gear goin up the hill. The hill isn't much. It is a steady about 3-4% grade and about a mile long I'm afraid when I start working it hard that the tractor will heat up too fast to really pull good. Is this a common problem or do I have a lemon? Could I turn up the pump for more fuel and maybe let the engine work a little less to do the same work or am I stuck to using the pyro to drive with?

 

[Anonymous-0]

Is the probe pre or post turbo? Pre turbo max temps with AL pistons would be 1300 degrees F. You lose about 300 degrees when measuring post turbo so max with AL pistons would be 1000 degrees F. Steel pistons would be higher. A larger turbo will actually help cool EGT's as will a free flowing intake and exhaust.

 

[Texasmark]

What"s an EGT sir?

On free flowing in and out, I have a nat aspired 404 JD that I put a 4 ft. straight pipe on thinking that free flowing exhaust would help it to run cooler. Glad I have a soundguard cab and earplugs. Grin.

Mark

 

[Anonymous-0]

The probe is pre turbo. As for the pistons, I don't know. Supposedly original, so whatever that is. The turbo is fairly small and they used the factory 4240 intake. I bet If I put a JD intake from a model that was turboed like a 4430 or 4440 that might help. I've seen 4240s that were turboed that ran the other intake. Mine is the only one I've ever seen that ran the 4240 intake with a turbo, and it is straait piped with a good cab.

 

[Anonymous-0]

EGT= Exhaust Gas Temperature

 

[Texasmark]

Thanks, that was quick.

Mark

 

[Texasmark]

I have a '74 4230 which has he nat. aspired 404 with a Roosa Master dist, pump. Puts out 100 pto hp.

I have looked at 4430's and they have a turbo and a very large inline pump. Their pto hp is like 125.

I just assumed that the 4240 was a later model 30 with a little combustion chamber work to get 10 more hp. Am I hearing that it is in fact turbo charged? What engine does it use and what pump?

Thanks,

Mark

 

[RodinNS]

Some things I've observed with a pyro....

1. The first pull of the day will always be hotter. I can't exactly explain it, but the first heat cycle until the engie is warm will run higher EGT's on my Ford. Once the engine is warm that first high peak will settle back a bit. A good reason to warm the engine up gently.

2. I've observed temp's as high as 1150 F in the pipe after the turbo. You're getting that before the turbo.... I figure a 250 degree drop across the turbo, so your numbers sound about normal to me. That 1150 you got is only 900 in the pipe, and I wouldn't worry a bit about that. I get concerned when I see a peak of 1150 in the pipe, and I don't like to pull her any harder on a steady basis then it takes to maintain 1000-1050 in the pipe. Much hotter than that and I usually smell hot aluminum...

3. More fuel will make more heat. Period. There's no way around that that I'm aware of.

4. More turbo might help IF it can make the air charge denser. An intercooler might be of more use....

Rod

 

[Anonymous-0]

I believe that 4240 is a 466 with a small rotary pump. It is turboed with an M&W turbo but was originally naturally aspirated. I talked to the local JD guys and one said that the pyro isn't that critical but the temp gauge is more important. I still think that the pyro is a thing to watch but they also said that the 800-900* pre turbo is about normal. They said that there is no concern whatsoever until atleast 1200 so that told me something. How is a good way to intercool one of those rascals? Never seen that done.

 

[Anonymous-0]

I've been researching intake manifolds and haven't figured out yet which intake will work on my tractor. The one that is there is fine but I think it's restrictive and I think that if I find an intake that is made for a turbo then I can possibly run a little bit more efficiently. I don't know if the 30 series is interchangeable or if I need to stick with the 40 series. I do believe that it would make a difference. I also was wondering if there is any differences I need to note with the plumbing being as it is an M&W turbo rather than a John Deere turbo. Thanks for the help.

 

[Mike M]

There in lays the problem. That setup was not factory engineered to all work together. A factory engine made for a turbo is not the same with just a turbo added.

Take all that aftermarket stuff off and go back to standard. And if that isn't enough power for what you need then trade that tractor off on a bigger model.
It will be cheaper and better in the long run,trust me.