turn up the fuel screw

[Anonymous-0]

I was posting a few months back on the Roosa master fuel screw and was working on the tractor to day and remembered about my posts. I was told that there was a fuel screw under the top cover of the pump. Is this the 3 screw cover on the very top of the pump? By the way the tractor is a 4240 M&W turbo kit. I was reading some books on those pumps and they mentioned a fuel pressure screw and a fuel mediation valve, do these play a part too?

 

[Bob]

<img src = "http://i167.photobucket.com/albums/u125/27Grainfield/ROOSA3-1.jpg">

The "HOLD MY BEER AND WATCH THIS" method of setting the max fuel screw is shown in the above photo.

(If the leaf spring has been shimmed, the screw can't be turned CW to set up the max fuel rate.)


<img src = "http://i167.photobucket.com/albums/u125/27Grainfield/ROOSA1.jpg">

<img src = "http://i167.photobucket.com/albums/u125/27Grainfield/ROOSA2.jpg">

The proper, correct, precision bench method of setting the max fuel screw is shown in the photos above.

 

[Anonymous-0]

So you have to turn the pump to the proper place to get the screw and the hole to line up? Also is this just the leaf spring adjustment? or the inlet orifice? and one more thing, if the pump is turned up, is it necessary to adjust the pressure or will it remain consistent?

 

[Anonymous-0]

The 4240 uses a DM four roller/plunger pump.It will have two leaf springs. If you shade tree the setting, try to get the same amount of turn on both screws.

As far as the inlet to the plungers there is plenty of capacity without any modification. When you tighten the screw in the leaf spring, it expands the end of the leaf spring, and allows the plungers to come out farther, thus more charge behind the plungers.

Properly setting the roller dimension, on the DM pump, is done with a special fixture dial indicator. Can require select fit of rollers and shoes.

I didn't realize M&W supplied a kit for the 4240, but if it ls like the older kits, new wider springs came with the kit.

I think you have enough transfer pressure to fully charge the plungers.

 

[Anonymous-0]

The pump appears to be wired shut still and the M&W manual doesn't mention anything of the injector pump. How do U know if there is shims under the leaf springs? how are those dealt with? how far should the springs be tightened down for 10-20 horse? thanks for the help.

 

[Anonymous-0]

also, how hard is the screw to turn? Do I need a set of ratchet drive allens or will a normal L shape work?

 

[Anonymous-0]

I have no advice to give you in regards to turning up the pump but I would definitely suggest installing a pyrometer..........and to monitor it CLOSELY when operating the tractor under loaded conditions............it might save a hole in a piston..........

 

[Anonymous-0]

The tractor has a good pyro and the injectors, filters, belts, radiator and fan are all in good shape. I am a tinkerer and enjoy tuning on everything I own from my dirtbikes to my dodge diesel truck. I know the previous owner didn't ever turn it up and that accounts for about the last 15 years I don't even know if I will turn it up being as I am at 6000 ft above sea level and egts run hot up here all the time anyway. I will run the tractor and see if the power is sufficient but it might get turned down. I also have a 1070 case that is the same HP as the JD (before the turbo kit) and that tractor has a shade more power for plowing anyway but the JD pulls OK. I think the JD might get dynoed if I feel the need but I bet it's not much over the stock 110. M&W recommended 136 hp with the turbo kit. I know I'm nowhere close to that.

 

[LarrySTN]

The screw will turn rather stiff. 1/8 turn will be a good start, though most of those pumps had shimms that prevented much "turn-up".

 

[LarrySTN]

The screw will turn rather stiff. 1/8 turn will be a good start, though most of those pumps had shimms that prevented much "turn-up".

 

[Anonymous-0]

thanks for the input. How do I know if there are shims or not? if there aren't, is it easy to go too far? and if there are shims, how hard are they to remove? I want to know where the pump is set, not let the shims tell me where it is set.

 

[LarrySTN]

1/8 turn should give you about the 135 hp you are looking for. Don't get carried away with lots of power if you intend to work the tractor hard. You don't want more power than you can easily keep cool. Your 4240 also is not intercooled to help keep intake charge much cooler. Your 4240 should be good for 150 hp without serious trouble but the limiting factor is usually having enough radiator. Back to the shims...if your pump has shims it will be impossible to turn the screw past the point of contact with the shims. The pump has to be disassembled to remove the shims.

 

[Anonymous-0]

Thanks. How hard is the pump to tear down and reseal and remove the shims? 1/8 turn is good for 135 horse, huh. I know of a farmer around here that turboed a 4240 then put the 4440 pump on it and it would run a 3 row corn chopper in good corn. It would overheat but they did it and that tractor lasted about 9000 hours till they traded it in. still ran fine was just wore out. The farmer said that the tractor was 200 horse at one time then it got pinched down to the 160-180 horse range for most of it's years. He told me that my tractor would make thet much power with that rotary pump if it was turned up. That farmer had another 4240 that he turboed and left the small pump on it and he said it wasn't a problem to see 150-160 out of it all day long. My neighbor also has a turboed 4240 with a 4440 pump and head and that tractor was 160 when it was converted without any turning up then it was turned down to about 125-130 to avoid a heating problem. I think mine is about 115-120 judging by the way pulls but it smokes none and hasn't heated yet so I think I will adjust it and see where it stands then. I onsy need the power in the spring when plowing and ripping demand it after that it doesn't matter.

 

[LarrySTN]

We had a 4240 in our shop, the customer wanted it turboed. The RoosaMaster failed a few years after we installed turbo. We install 4440 pump. His son turned it all the way up and scorched the engine. We rebuilt the engine and tested at the "turned up" power....240hp! We set it back to 160 with strict orders NOT to turn up. It has lasted several years that way. The RoosaMaster is not really hard to disassemble and put back together. What you need is a very good break-down so you can see what you need to do.

 

[dieseldoc]

MY 4440 runs 230 hp on dyno with just the fuel turned up and a 3LM turbo. It does not overheat I have a good radiator and an aftercooler. I pull a gehl 1275 chopper with a 3row head and a kernel proccesor and never have any trouble and it uses a third less fuel then my 4955.It has got 9800 hours and motor has never been touched except for valve adjustments and a injector or two. Dont let anyone bs you those 466 engines will take alot of hp as long as you are sensible with them. By the way I dont run pyrometers in any of my tractors. I would go find a bosch A pump and install that instead of the roosamaster. They are better pumps and it only takes 5 minutes to adjust the fuel screw. Turn it up and have fun.

 

[DONMYEIL]

I would not even think of setting the fuel screw without a dial indicator and a micrometer . you cant believe how just a nudge will change the diminsions. I used to swap rollers and shoes around to get the rollers even. Uneven rollers will cause the cam to wear and chip as well.

 

[Anonymous-0]

I think I can figure it out. I was recommended the bosch pump is this a feasible upgrade? New pump, injector lines, fuel lines, and all for an easier turn up. The Roosa turns up easily it looks like but I don't want to add an after cooler if i can help it and I'm not sure how much air that M&W is capable of moving but i would hate to overspool the turbo and grenade the compressor housing. That one post said that you could chip the cam in the fuel pump if the fuel screw was turned up too far due to the plungers no longer lining up or something is this a serious risk or an unlucky fatality? I understand those little pumps pretty good and don't see how setting the leaf springs out further could do anything but allow a higher volume of fuel into the cylinders at a lugged point in RPM. I am just curious is all. Thanks for all of the input.

 

[LarrySTN]

The inline pumps are higher quality pumps, but unless you are looking for lots of power the Roosa pump will be suffecient. They are not a bad pump. It is highly unlikely that you will have any trouble with the Roosa pump at 160hp or even more. When you start pushing more than 150 - 160 hp you should seriously look at adding an intercooler. What some people don't understand also is, the 4240 uses smaller wrist pins than the 4440 and up. So if you want longevity don't go crazy with the power screw. If you need more than 160 buy a larger tractor. The Deere 466 is one of the very best engines built in that era.
While the 4240 has a 466 the 4440 especially 4640 and 4840 engines are built for more power with heavier parts.

 

[dieseldoc]

An aftercooler is easy to add .just go get one at junk yard and in 30 minutes labor you are done. I probably have one lying around. Also I have some A pumps an I think I still have a good P pump if you want to get really radical with it. Another thing I dont care what anybody says you can never have to much power.

 

[Anonymous-0]

I totally agree that an after cooler would be a good mod. Only thing is that with that M&W turbo the intake is still at the front of the intake manifold so some plumbing would be in order to get that after cooler on since (I believe) all of the after coolers are plumbed to the center of the intake. How much cooler do you typically see the engine run with an after cooler versus no after cooler? Also, are those little M&W turbos good for very much? I feel like our old 1070 case at 107 hp always had enough for me and I thought that this 4240 with a turbo would run that old case into the ground but that isn't the case here. the JD probably has as much power as that case but it won't lug as well. If I'm plowing and the plow hits a tight spot that case will lug down a bit then smoke a little black and pull through it but the JD needs a gear down then it'll make it through it. I think I need about 10-15 more horse and I'll be just fine. Thanks a ton for all of the great advice. It has already helped me some and made me a lot more comfortable with my new tractor.

 

[dieseldoc]

The aftercooler really wont cool the engine temp very much if at all but it will cool exhaust temp by 200 to 300 degrees wich is enough to save a piston meltdown. The only experiance i have had with an M&w turbo was on a 4020.We put it on took it to the field came back home and pulled it off.didnt make enough boost for me so back to the junkyard for some parts.Ended up with a schweitzer turbo and a little hood triming. then it had plenty of boost. But I am what you would call a power farmer and maybey for you the m&w and the roosamaster is good enough for the hp you want.

 

[Anonymous-0]

Power farmer, huh! I like that. That is pretty good I guess I'm not a power farmer but I like to tinker and If the M&W doesn't cut it then I might wind up doing something like that so I can move a little more air. Where would a good place be to find an after cooler and What do I need for the install? What coolant lines get routed into the cooler? And what turbo would work better than the baby M&W?

 

[dieseldoc]

Worthington ag parts for after cooler. It just bolts on were your intake manifold goes.so only thing you would need is new gaskets. Aftercooler has two coolant lines one on bottom front that goes just below it to a plug in block and the other goes from back of cooler up to back of water manifold. I would reccomend a scweitzer 3LM they are good chargers and reasonably priced.