Two breakers share the same neutral

I'll second what John T and Gene said: Most codes allow it (at least, here in Canada they do), but the breakers must be tied together and on opposite legs/poles. Depending on the panel, two breakers side-by-side may or may not be from the same or separate poles. Some panels have every adjacent single breaker slot opposite (i.e. A, B, A, B, ...) so any double breaker will automatically be out-of-phase (or 240V between). But some panels have a different phase map, with two slots in a row the same, then the next two opposite (i.e. A, A, B, B, A, A, B, B, ...). On this second style of panel if you want 240 (or opposite poles) you need to make sure your double breaker (for 240) or tied breakers (for shared neutral) span one of the spots between A & B (rather than A & A or B & B). It should be pretty obvious what you have by looking at the bus bars in your panel.

As John mentions above, they need to be opposite phases to make sure you're not overloading the neutral. And they need to be tied together, because otherwise if you killed one breaker to work on the circuit, the neutral would still be live via current passing through anything that's running on the other breaker (and also to make sure a short that causes a breaker to trip knocks out both breakers, as both would be tied to the short via the neutral).

Two of the houses on our farm have loads of MWBC's and had been fooled around with by goofballs over the years. At one point someone had clearly done things correctly with tied breakers on opposite poles, but goofballery in later years with half-arsed circuit additions and trying to penny-pinch by saving a few feet of wire meant that everything was all bungled up: Every time you killed a circuit to work on it you'd get a shock due to some backfeeding through the neutral from a non-tied breaker or due to some other goofballery. There were also other backfeeding & voltage drop issues. Both houses are now (finally) wired properly (more-or-less). There's still some shared neutrals which I'm not a fan of, but at least they're all wired correctly as per above: Tied breakers and opposite phases.

For any wiring I do, I wouldn't run any shared neutrals. I'd rather just keep things straight forward and have one neutral for each live leg without any sharing concerns. I can see why it'd be convenient for some large commercial projects with long runs. But for residential circuits, I don't really see any reason to share neutrals. Sometimes it makes things convenient, but for a small amount of extra wire and routing work you can avoid it. One of the reasons I don't like it is because if something ever goes awry with your neutral (if it ever broke at some spot between where it's shared and your panel), you effectively have 240V potential between two sides of your 120 circuit that are tied together via the neutral: All the 120V appliances, lights, wiring, etc. on both circuits would suddenly be subject to 240V, which is going to cause some significant damage/melting/fire-hazards.

Of course, due diligence would say to be cautious of anything you read online, abide by local codes, don't assume what I write here (or anyone else writes) is necessarily correct for your situation, etc., etc.
 
Last edited:
As others stated, really common in kitchen circuits, provided the needed two countertop, 20a recepts with wire savings. If it installed on two single pole breakers with a handle tie it usually will trip only one. Of course if you used a common trip two pole breaker all recpts will lose power if one overloads.

I wired a fairly large building, 10ksqft, to be used as an antique mall. Common in those to have multiple dealers in varying booth sizes, and I wanted all to have access to 120v recepts. Saved a large amount of white 12ga doing it this way as it was over 150 wire feet from the panel to the store front.
 
The breakers are on opposite input lines that is the phases are180 degrees apart for a single phase 240 input line. 240 volts between the hots but each only 120 to the neutral. I believe theoretically if both sides have the same load the neutral would have nearly zero current since the currents are 180 degrees out of phase and would cancel out.
You mean like a 120/240 4-wire dryer/ range receptacle?
 
Like any 240 volt appliance that has a neutral to run parts of it at 120 volts. Those should be on a single 240 volt breaker and a trip would kill both phases of the line. Like has been said for separate 120 volt breaker circuits it would be best to run a neutral to each circuit. My humble opinion as well.
 
Well being 110 v circuits, the current in the ground wire is the combination of current in both circuits. If low current usage, no biggie (excluding any code violation). That could be bad for high current applications that may cause the ground wire to overheat and possibly cause a fire.
IF... they are truly out of phase circuits, the neutral will carry NO current or little current. The ground will not carry any current, unless there is a fault some where. The ground is normally not a current carrying conductor in use. The neutral IS normally the return circuit that DOES carry current in normal use.
 
Good Morning John, hope all is well with you. To answer your good question YES I have seen it often.

FYI for others if there's any confusion, as you found indeed the NEC (when I practiced at least) permits and they are used (although I wasn't a fan) what are called MULTI WIRE BRANCH CIRCUITS in which two hot legs (A & B) of 120 VAC each 180 out of phase with the other, share a single common Neutral. If each leg of 120 pulled the same current THE SHARED NEUTRAL CURRENT IS ZERO). If the two 120 legs aren't equal, the Neutral only carries the difference in current.

If two vertically next to each other (in a typical 120/240 Panel) such that they are on opposite phases Single Pole Breakers are tied together, that accomplishes the same as a two pole 240 volt breaker. The voltage of EITHER is 120 VAC to Neutral (but are 180 out of phase) while the Voltage from one breaker to the other is 240 VAC where you would commonly see red to one black to the other to serve a straight 240 volt load.

As noted yes Ive seen two hot legs of 120 that are 180 out of phase with the other share a single common Neutral. Such would be preferred when the loads are resistive as opposed to inductive (see below).

Hope this helps

DISCLAIMER Im long retired and rusty on the latest codes so NO Warranty, when in doubt consult local authority and applicable NEC where appropriate. NOTE I wouldn't be surprised if this practice was no longer NEC approved or there were some exceptions due to the possibility of harmonic currents if the loads were inductive ?????????? Have to check the latest NEC to be safe n sure

John T BSEE, JD
You're doing fine in your old age sir!
 
Likewise while it was NOT my design (NOT a fan of MWBC in residential) I have seen MWBC's used in kitchen duplex receptacles where it was common to plug two high power kitchen appliances such as a toaster, crockpot or coffee maker etc., into either side of a duplex receptacle AND BOTH WORK without overloading a 20 Amp Branch Circuit. Of course, the receptacles line side connector tab would be removed on the hot side while kept in place to achieve a single shared Neutral. As stated, the Grounded Conductor (aka Neutral) is designed to carry normal return current while the Bare/Green Equipment GroundING Conductor (aka Ground) is to only carry fault current.

This is neat, I've been gone a year and I see things haven't changed, anytime an electrical question is asked there are more lay as well as professional responses (some relevant some not) than any other topics lol lots of fine people here trying to help

Best wishes to everyone here

John T
 
I went to my sisters older house today to replace a wall plug for her and saw something I have never seen before.
In the electric box they had 2 single pole 20 amp breakers next to each other that had a piece between them to where if you turned off one breaker you had to turn off both breakers.
Looking at it I could see they had a 12/3 wire going to the breakers. The black wire was hooked to one breaker and the red wire was hooked to the second breaker. They both seemed to be sharing the same neutral white wire.
At first I thought someone was using 2 single pole breakers to supply a 220 volt plug but they were hooked to 110 wall outlets.
So I googled it and found that it was legal for 2 single pole breakers next to one another to share a single neutral white wire.

Has anyone ever seen this before???
Are both of these breakers and supplied from the same bus bar ?
Or is each breaker on a separate bus bar ? If so , each half of the duplex receptacle can be supplying a 16amp load . Current on the neutral will be zero amps.
 
Last edited:
Like any 240 volt appliance that has a neutral to run parts of it at 120 volts. Those should be on a single 240 volt breaker and a trip would kill both phases of the line. Like has been said for separate 120 volt breaker circuits it would be best to run a neutral to each circuit. My humble opinion as well.
You mean both lines of that phase . There is only one phase with single phase power .
 
That's the way the inspector suggested I wire my kitchen receptacles in the home we built in 77, worked fine. Top and bottom plugs were on separate breakers, shared neutral. Our garage at our current home was also wired that way.
Nothing wrong with it IF no one rearranges the breakers and IF the neutral is never compromised. I think they should still be tied together so if one trips they both trip.
 
Well being 110 v circuits, the current in the ground wire is the combination of current in both circuits. If low current usage, no biggie (excluding any code violation). That could be bad for high current applications that may cause the ground wire to overheat and possibly cause a fire.
It's not a ground wire, it's a neutral, read John T's post above.
 
Well being 110 v circuits, the current in the ground wire is the combination of current in both circuits. If low current usage, no biggie (excluding any code violation). That could be bad for high current applications that may cause the ground wire to overheat and possibly cause a fire.
Ground wire ?
 
It's not a ground wire, it's a neutral, read John T's post above.
Russ, that's EXACTLY TRUE thanks. What many laymen might call GROUND may likely, subject to its use, in professional circles be referred to as the "Equipment GroundING Conductor" and indeed its purpose is to ONLY carry FAULT CURRENT. Neutral is a GrounDED Conductor which carries normal non fault return current back to the source. Theres also EARTH GROUNDING such as when the transformers center tap Neutral is connected to a proper "Grounding Electrode" such as a rod driven into mother earth. IE its a Grounded Conductor.................

PS In order for the EGC to do its job and clear the fault, the system MUST have a BONDED Neutral versus a Floating such as how some portable Gensets are factory configured............

PS Theres yet another "Ground" Such as a "Grounding Electrode Conductor" like the No 4 bare copper wire from the transformers Neutral down the pole to a Grounding Electrode lol..............



Best wishes thanks for your post

John T
 
Last edited:
Nothing wrong with it IF no one rearranges the breakers and IF the neutral is never compromised. I think they should still be tied together so if one trips they both trip.
I agree David. Not only they should be but they MUST. Ive seen two single pole breakers right next to each either vertically with a wire between tying them together or a two pole breaker no tie needed of course.......... I didnt like them in residences where Billy Bob or Bubba who wired their garage over a case of beer had no understanding of MWBC's

John T
 
Calling a neutral a ground is like calling a water heater a hot water heater.
Did they just miss speak or do they really have the terminology wrong in their head.
But it does give the internet police a chance to chime in.

But thanks for the discussion. I have never seen MWBC before so I learned something new.
 
Calling a neutral a ground is like calling a water heater a hot water heater.
Did they just miss speak or do they really have the terminology wrong in their head.
But it does give the internet police a chance to chime in.

But thanks for the discussion. I have never seen MWBC before so I learned something new.
Neutral current flowing through the ground system has caused serious problems in the livestock industry .
 
Ok, I apologize. I "mis-spoke" (you mean I lied) when I called the Neutral wire the Ground wire even though they are both tied to the same bus bar. Not that I don't know the difference in the function of both neutral and ground wiring, my tongue just got tangled up in my 84 year old teeth.....and it's probably going to get worse over time.
 
Yesterday's Tractor Forums

We sell tractor parts! We have the parts you need to repair your tractor - the right parts. Our low prices and years of research make us your best choice when you need parts. Shop Online Today.

Back
Top