Two stage clutch setup

tugman

Member
58 861d I disassembled the clutch due to bad oil saturation from po , clutch was in great shape other than all the oil ( Trans. & engine oil ).
Had the clutch plates re-lined locally and degreased everything else, there were reference punch marks on the plates so I reassembled it in order.
Trick was setting the fingers at a correct height or as close to that ( whatever that magic number is).
Assuming that it was set correctly before and with very little if any signs of wear I just reassembled it, clutch shop did give me some pointers on setting the fingers up.
Next I bolted it up to the flywheel then leveled the flywheel and used the alignment tool to get the plates aligned with each other.
I set the new release bearing on the first three fingers and checked for level I adjusted two of the bolts and then measured down to the pto fingers from the top surface of the release bearing and adjusted one bolt.
Using c clamps I compressed the drive fingers down and the drive clutch released just above the pto fingers, did the same with the pto fingers and it released about halfway down.
So as far as I know the two stage clutch is ready for installation after I have the engine together, the steering column is removed and hopefully should be able to see what the clutch is doing when the engine is mated up.
One thing the clutch shop said is to raise the adjustment bolts up about 1/16 of a inch to accommodate for any wear or machining that was done previously.
So I'll see how it all works out, two bolts to hold the engine tight to the transmission and check the clutch operation....
Leveling seemed like the best way to go without having the factory setup jig.
 
One thing to check closely is the bolts holding the clutch assembly to the flywheel. I had one tractor where they were visibly stretched. They are a little special and not hardware store available.
 


You can "predict" where the fingers and release bearing will be WRT each other by measuring back from the mating surface of the motor to the surface of the fingers, and back from the mating surface of the bell housing to the release bearing surface when extended. They make special tools for doing this but with a little creativity and ruler and straight edges and an extra hand you can get it done. Then you will know exactly how the release bearing will come up against the fingers before actually bringing the two halves together.
 
(reply to post at 21:10:14 11/30/21)
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mvphoto85347.jpg

I thought the square heads were a nice addition
 
Showcrop thank you for your reply, I am planning on doing that : )
I've been reading lots of old posts on the 2 stage clutches, I will post a follow up once I get the two halfs together.
Thanks again
 
that's quite the assembly of bolts - scary -

Parts book calls for "Bolt 5/16-18 x .72 Hex head" (plus a lock washer) so be careful with the length. I find it hard to believe the bolts you took out did not either bottom out or interfere with something. I don't recall if the flywheel holes are blind or thru.
 

They are actually 1 3/8 " long , I think the ones you're referring to are for n series and naa single stage.
I only say that cause I brought the wrong parts book to work with me : )...
The bolt holes are blind but deep.
 

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