Using Ampli-torque in low range

[Alan K]

I have an M5 I plan on using to cut around the yard with a 3pt sickle mower. Im sure 1st will be too fast and am wondering if it hurts the torque to use it in low range for this purpose.

 

[Freddy]

once the trans reachs temperature then it will not hurt a thing. Most of these old tractors had a warning some where to let the trans warm up from use before using low side.

 

[Howard H.]

That's interesting! What does the temperature have to do with it??

Howard

 

[Alan K]

Thanks for the info. I figured that too about letting it warm up. Anyone know generally how long it takes to warm up if your not using it heavy?

 

[SWMolines]

If the oil is too cool, its viscosity may be too high and not allow the rollers or sprags to grip the torque hub.

 

[Anonymous-0]

I believe the operators manual states that the ampli-torque clutch will slip and eventually "burn up" if you don't let the transmission warmup. In high draft applications I always choose a lower gear and run the first 10-15 minutes in direct drive drive before using the low range. I'm not sure it is an issue in low draft situations such as pulling a mower on level terrain.

 

[R.D.F.]

You've raised an interesting question about temperature! Common sense will tell you temp. has virtually nothing to do with this issue. If the tractor is used in Arizona in winter to haul a load of irrigation pipe 2 miles down the road the normal fluid operating temp. will be very different than a similar tractor hauling a load of manure in Wisconsin when it's 20 below zero for 20 minutes, right? The reason for the operating decals and proper operating procedure of a tractor with Ampli-torgue is this. Look at the side of the A/T case, see the fluid level plug? Now look at the position of the A/T in the case. Quite a bit above the fluid level. So, the reason for delay in operating the A/T in low range is so fluid is slung up into and onto the A/T assembly. The damage to spring-roller or sprague assy's is started when they are run dry. Most tractors of that era did not have pressured lube systems so reliance of the "sling your oil" theory was normal. Now this becomes your judgement call, Dale

 

[Ill John]

Dale has the correct diagnosis, actual temperature has nothing to do with it.

 

[Clint Youse MO]

Dont let it free wheel down a hill if you have on you are mowing on as this will also make them go out or burn up

 

[Captainhookerus]

Make sure you have universal transmission hydraulic oil in trans. If not drain at the final drive hole and ampli-torq drain, then fill torq compartment to top check hole and trans compartment to lower check hole. These small plugs are located on rh side around brake pedals.

 

[Alan K]

Hy-tran or something similiar? Lighter weight oil than the 80-90.

 

[Captainhookerus]

Yes sir. hy tran, johndeere 303 equivalent, AC 821
Ken

 

[klw445]

We had a U302 that was completely overhauled in 1978. We only added about 1 gallon of hyd fluid to the gear oil. Pulled a 12" disc and plowed for countless hours... in low range. Never have turned a bolt on it since, and low range works as good now as it did in 1978.

 

[SWMolines]

The clutch that they are cncerned about is the sprag/roller clutch spinning on its hub and burning up. In high range, the sprag over-runs with virtually no load on the sprags or rollers. In low range, the hub wants to spin in opposite direction and the sprags/rollers are forced by springs and their geometry grip and stop the hub from spinning. If the hub spins in low range, the torque does not work and it makes the high pithed whirling sound heard on units that do not fuction in low range.

 

[Freddy]

Wouldn't common sense tell you that the rated oils for the rear end thin with temperature? And higher temperature would cause the viscosity to drop. This would aid in flow of lubrication. Since this tractor rear end relies on gravity and splay for lubrication.