Voltage Drain Question?

[Jay, Tx]

Now that I have the tractor running like a top, I'm finding I have a pretty good voltage drain. It'll kill the battery overnight. For now, disconnecting the battery is working fine. But no doubt I'm gonna forget to do this one day. Beside the fact it is a PITA (kinda) to do this every time I get off the tractor for any period of time for fear it'll be dead when I get back on.

Am getting a pretty good arc on the terminal when I disconnect and reconnect. Any ideas where to start?

8n, 6v, side mount.


Jay

 

[Anonymous-0]

Go right to the generator cut out.Disconnect either wire when the engine stops.If you cant understand this loosen the fan belt.The generator will be turning when the engine stops..

 

[Dell (WA)]

Jay......didja know there is a "cut-out" inside the 4-terminal squarecan voltage regulator under yer oil pressure gauge??? Unlike watches, the relay doesn't have jeweled bearings and will ultimately wear and catch.

While you could try anutter "re-polarization", (arc-sparking the side-by-side BAT & ARM terminals) you'll probably be better off bighting the bullet and replacing yer squarecan voltage regulator. Don't fergitt to polarize after installation. ......Dell

 

[440roadrunner]

(quoted from post at 15:40:21 06/14/09) Jay......didja know there is a "cut-out" inside the 4-terminal squarecan voltage regulator under yer oil pressure gauge??? Unlike watches, the relay doesn't have jeweled bearings and will ultimately wear and catch.

While you could try anutter "re-polarization", (arc-sparking the side-by-side BAT & ARM terminals) you'll probably be better off bighting the bullet and replacing yer squarecan voltage regulator. Don't fergitt to polarize after installation. ......Dell

AND ONE MORE TIME regulators DO NOT NEED TO BE POLARIZED. What you polarize, when you do so, is the GENERATOR CORE.

I just recently replaced a cut-out relay.....with a diode

and WHY IN HELL do I get this message just trying to post a URL??

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[Dell (WA)]

440........tractorforum is in competition with YT and resulted in being on the YT badword list

I'm tired of explaining that the cut-out relay is magnetically polarity sensitive, otherwize it would NOT disconnect. .......respectfully, Dell

 

[Jay, Tx]

(quoted from post at 15:40:21 06/14/09) Jay......didja know there is a "cut-out" inside the 4-terminal squarecan voltage regulator under yer oil pressure gauge??? Unlike watches, the relay doesn't have jeweled bearings and will ultimately wear and catch.

While you could try anutter "re-polarization", (arc-sparking the side-by-side BAT & ARM terminals) you'll probably be better off bighting the bullet and replacing yer squarecan voltage regulator. Don't fergitt to polarize after installation. ......Dell

Is there a method to checking the volt reg.? It was just replaced last fall. I know this doesn't mean it's not bad. But....

I have a good multi-meter, is there a way to ohm it and check it out?

Amp meter on the tractor show positive charging, up to 20+amps at higher rpm. So I'm thinking polarity is correct? I suspected the regulator might be stuck. But I don't assume anything I don't know about.


Jay

 

[Dunk]

JMHO.

But I have right at 22 years of service, not one problem.

Part No. D110SiPSE6V35, 6 volt Positive Ground Alternator, 35 amp

6 Volt, 35 Amp Delco-Remy 10-SI type POSITIVE GROUND alternator W/Self Exciting internal voltage regulator

Your Price $129.95

Even available in chrome, and 53 amp models.

http://store.alternatorparts.com/alternators6voltpositiveground.aspx

I gave up on gennys and VRs, years ago.

 

[BillM (OH)]

Put you multimeter on ohms - across the Batt & ARM terminals with the engine off, and if you get anything but infinite, your cut out ain't (cuttin' out, that is). Also 20 amp charge on a charged up battery means v-reg is likely not v-reggin' either.

 

[440roadrunner]

(quoted from post at 16:38:52 06/14/09) 440........tractorforum is in competition with YT and resulted in being on the YT badword list

I'm tired of explaining that the cut-out relay is magnetically polarity sensitive, otherwize it would NOT disconnect. .......respectfully, Dell

I'm getting pretty tired of explaining that they are NOT polarity sensitive. IF THEY WERE the residual magnetism would hold them IN and they would not release. All you have to do to understand this simple fact is to consider an AC relay which DOES have core capable of maintaining magnetism. If you try and operate an AC relay on DC, you'll find that you MAGNETIZE (polarize) the core and that it stays engaged!!

Cutout relays have TWO windings, a voltage winding and a current winding. That is the secret as to why they release as they do. When the generator ceases to output current, at some point the battery starts to drain through the generator THROUGH THE SERIES COIL. At this point, the magnetism in the core is falling, and the armature pull is weakening, and the voltage/ shunt winding is no longer energized. As the battery starts to drain through the series winding IN THE OPPOSITE POLARITY from the charge position, this opposing current reverses the magnetism in the core for a short period and actually helps to "kick" the armature/ contacts open.

IF THE CORE of a cutout was such that it would become polarized, THE MAGNETIZING CURRENT OF THE PULL IN WINDINGS WOULD KEEP THE CORE MAGNETIZED and would therefore keep the armature engaged.


I'm sorry to again say this but you need to review the basics of relays Google up on "polarized relays" which should give you some insight. There is no possible way that a relay in a regulator is "polarized" "becomes polarized" or "is polariziable" or any other term you wish to apply.

No automotive publication you will ever find will speak of polarizing the regulator or cutout. The GENERATOR core is what we are worried about.

 

[JMOR]

(quoted from post at 22:33:11 06/14/09) Put you multimeter on ohms - across the Batt & ARM terminals with the engine off, and if you get anything but infinite, your cut out ain't (cuttin' out, that is). Also 20 amp charge on a charged up battery means v-reg is likely not v-reggin' either.

ou surely should have told him that he should make your measurement with wires disconnected from the regulator terminals. Hope his meter lived after being hit with battery voltage.

 

[Jay, Tx]

(quoted from post at 07:04:20 06/15/09)

(quoted from post at 22:33:11 06/14/09) Put you multimeter on ohms - across the Batt & ARM terminals with the engine off, and if you get anything but infinite, your cut out ain't (cuttin' out, that is). Also 20 amp charge on a charged up battery means v-reg is likely not v-reggin' either.

ou surely should have told him that he should make your measurement with wires disconnected from the regulator terminals. Hope his meter lived after being hit with battery voltage.

I appreciate the concern on that one. But I do deal with electricity quite often in my work. And yes, I do know to disconnect power from anything before I ohm it. My meter does have a fuse in it for just such occasions though.

Haven't had a chance to get out and mess with it yet, but will check it out tonight.

I figured there was a way to ohm it out, but not knowing it's internal workings, I wouldn't have known what I was seeing on the meter.

Thanks fellas, I'll post results when I get 'em.


Jay

 

[Dell (WA)]

roady.......ya made my point......."As the battery starts to drain through the series winding IN THE OPPOSITE POLARITY from the charge position, this opposing current reverses the magnetism in the core for a short period and actually helps to "kick" the armature/ contacts open.".......The cut-out ARMATURE (not the core) is initially polarized with the heavy "arc-spark" surge during polarization. And as the battery drains thru the finewire series coil creates an opposing magnetic field that "kicks" the relay armature OPEN.

Thank you for explaining it better? differently? .......respectfully, Dell