VOLTAGE (starter)

[DMC]

OK, the starter is out and does not work. how do I know if it is a 12 volt starter (it is a 12 volt system) or a 6 volt.
it is a-- 'Delco Remy / 1107852 / 8 B 25'
this is the only information on the starter.
anyone have an outlet for a new starter?

 

[Richard L]

12 volt became normal in 1955 on TO 35's at s/n 161250 if yours is higher than that number it "should" be a 12 Volt starter.

 

[Bruce(OR)]

Seems A?C does not like having a 110V motor plugged into 220V. It tends to catch fire.
D/C actually doesn"t mind quite as much. 6V just spins twice as fast. You can rewind it if your so inclined, but a properly maintained engine will be just as happy with a 6v starter.
Been running a 6V for a few years now. Still working.

 

[Richard L]

As Bruce says take it to a automotive starter, generator, rebuilder and save yourself some money and have them rebuild it. When that starter is rebuilt (if it needs it) you will still have the original equipment on the tractor. The repair place can tell you what voltage it is and what needs to be done to get it working again. Possibly there is nothing wrong with the starter. Much cheaper that way. Keep the forum informed.

 

[DMC]

name plate:

TO-35
#SGF I7I983 (171983)
another site says it is a 1957
should be 12 volt

 

[phil(va)]

Are you saying you have tried it on the bench hooked to a known good 12 volt battery and it does not work that way with no load on it? If so, as the others said, just take it to a good auto electrical shop. They work on starters for tractors and forklifts and all kinda of machinery and will find out quickly what the problem is. One thing that often happens is the connection on top gets broken inside the case because the bottom nut isn't held when the top nut is tightened. Nice to see you jiggled and cussed enough to get it off the tractor...lol.

 

[Richard L]

Yes it is well past the 161250 s/n and past the 1955 year so I would say it is for sure a 12 volt.

 

[DMC]

Yes, I bench tested, making sure of good ground.
used both my large charger and a good battery, but neither would run the starter. I am of the mind as you mentioned the post is not making contact. However am not sure why the post would be separated other then use I have not moved the cable on the starter since I've owned it.
I will take it to a shop in the next few days (soon as I find one) I live in the sticks, so this initself could be a challenge.
Will keep you posted.

 

[phil(va)]

If it's the post connection inside the case, it might have been loose before, and you hit a bump and made it come all the way loose. As I said, they often get weak when people tighten the top nut without holding the underside nut, which allows the bolt to turn inside the case and tears it away from the connection inside. If you are like me and not so great with repair on starters and gennys, it will be worth it to find a good shop even though you have to travel.

 

[DMC]

Found a shop... actually pretty local, I was surprised. Not sure of the problem yet, but he also bench tested and agreed, there is a problem, LOL. Will update when something more is known.

Thanks.