Welded block

RandyM

Member
Looked at a running IH404 lo-boy today and nearly made a deal on it. It had an hydraulic whine which concerned me but I finally passed on it because of a weld in the block, behind the carb, that I nearly missed seeing.

So now Im second guessing and wondering if I should have made the deal. Thoughts on buying a running tractor with a welded block?
 
I have an F-20 with a welded block in that same spot. Has run for several years.
It all depends on how good the welder is at welding cast.
 
Probably done to to repair a crack from
freezing. Actually pretty common.If
properly done(not leaking),you have
nothing to worry about.I would buy it.
 
If it was fixed right, don't leak, and
doesn't affect it mechanically, I
wouldn't have much of a concern or be
afraid of it, if buying to use.
But something to keep in mind is, it
may hurt the re-sale value of it in
the future when you go to sell it. You
will then be the one saying (oh it's
OK) and convincing buyers (like
yourself) that it's alright. And it
could impose a problem, especially if
you sink a bunch of money into it such
as new paint, new tires, and so on.
 
Pretty common to find tractors from the 30's through 50's with a welded block due to coolent freezing. Also very common to find IH tractors H through 450 with a
weld under the rear end where the bull gears are.

When I was a freshman in high school I wanted an antique tractor to drive in the local parade. Looked at several tractors for sale. Dad found something wrong
with all of them.
Went to a local consignment auction and found a newly painted 1941 Case SC. I bought it for $500 came with a JD #5 sickle mower. Had the tractor for about a
week when dad noticed the block was welded in a letter I pattern. If dad had seen that before the auction it would have been a stay away from that one.
It's now 33 years later. I still have the SC and the weld has not caused any problems.

I sold the sickle mower for $30. Ten years later I saw it at an auction sold for $50. Then about another ten years it showed up again at an auction and sold for
$75-80. Still had the home made Case brackets on it.
 
I bought a non running W30 way back in the 90's that was in real tough shape and when I got it ready to try starting it I put water into the radiator and found it running onto my shoes - block was cracked
behind the carb. Being a rookie tractor mechanic I didn't see it at the time I bought it. I didn't want to spend money on welding not knowing if I could get the tractor running so I ground it smooth and sealed
it with JB weld. Its never leaked a drop of water in all these years. Probably helps its not a pressurized cooling system.
 
We had a Ford 640 with a huge weld on
the block. We worked that tractor hard
for 5 years. Sold it to a friend who is
still using it. I would buy it no
worries
 

My M has a patch welded on the block behind the governor. I figure that at some point in its life, a connecting rod exited stage left. Whomever did the welding did a good job. There are no oil leaks.
 
The 404 used a C-135 block. This block was derived from the same block as a Farmall A.

This block has a water passage behind the carburetor and is known for freezing and breaking at that spot. Many thousands of them have been repaired and go on to decades of further service without problems. If the block was welded properly, by somebody that knew what he was doing, I would have no qualms about the tractor. I've even seen some that were fixed using RTV Silicone and Bondo that held up.

The question is: Was it a good weld repair? If it was, I wouldn't be afraid of it.
You have to look at it and decide that for yourself.
 
We have a super C with welded block lasted 50 years . Older these tractors get the more chance cracks will develop. Repair done correctly
should last as long as they are maintained
 
Id like to thank everyone for their input.

Im leaning towards contacting them to see if we can work out a deal but Im busy the next few days and the tractor is 2 hours away.

Im hoping to use it to brush hog (5-ft) and to run a pto wood chipper. Which brings me to a second question - the chipper weighs 750-800#. My F230 can lift it without much effort, so Im guessing the 3-point on the 404 shouldnt have a problem with it. Am I being optimistic?
 
Dennis, the Cub pto rotates opposite and I believe at 1800 rpm. There were 404 utilities badged as lo-boys with smaller rear tires and maybe one or two other changes. The pto though is standard 540 rpm clutch driven like the C/SuperC/230 tractors.
 
i have repaired a couple of them ground the crack out some and the area then used rubber cement with the sun shinning making the block warm let it cure for a couple of days and they havent leaked for several yrs two of them you need to look hard to even see the patch as i roughed it up looking like the cast then painted. these were done on Bs with no cracks between cycls one had been welded and was a real mess
 
I have a H that is welded under the rear end but I never knew why. Guess it had water in it and froze at some point?
 
Not welded, but this Farmall A has been repaired for the 15 years I've owned it with not problems.
cvphoto117339.jpg


cvphoto117340.jpg
 
the repair may be totally functional but the tractor is NOT a premium tractor so its not worth premium dollars. If and when you go to sell such a tractor you will find many buyers walk away from it. ( if you were given the choice between 2 tractors identical but one was repaired which one are you going to buy)
Lowball the guy or find one that doesn't have a repaired block. There are 1000s of tractors for sale
 
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