Welding a wheel casting

[36b A]

Anybody have any luck welding these up with 99ni rod ?

 

[Janicholson]

Anybody have any luck welding these up with 99ni rod ?
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Unless it is rare (we do not know what it is on) It would be rar easier to replace it than weld and machine to to be workable. It can be repaired. Jim

 

[used red MN]

Is this off of the H or 400? Either way there are so many of them in salvage yards as Jim says it not worth the trouble. I think the 400 would be the same as an M.

 

[36b A]

Done

 

[caterpillar guy]

They would need preheating like any other casting to weld then after welded let cool real slow like heat in charcoal grill weld then let burn out and cool with lid on. Next day or so then grind down to fit. OR just get another hub casting since there are literally thousands out there. Use new bolts and tighen them well and then keep them tight and it should not happen again.

 

[rustred]

Perfect , that’s pretty straight forward job. It’s not cast. U need the square head bolts from behind , as I see u have lock nuts , might make tightening it a bit of a hassel. Welder and grinder and done.

 

[560Dennis]

Nice ,press ahead

 

[old]

Anybody have any luck welding these up with 99ni rod ?
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Depending on what it is on I may have a good one or 3 laying around

 

[used red MN]

Depending on what it is on I may have a good one or 3 laying around

Absolutely great forum viewing and immersion! In reply 4 he has shown he welded it.

 

[caterpillar guy]

If they are not cast what are they made of then. I didn't think it was cast steel which is different that cast iron. The inside where the bearings go looks like cast iron when I have had them apart in the past and always thought they were cast iron. You can clearly see mold marks and lines from them being poured so just naturally figured they were cast iron.

 

[JIM MN]

You know how to weld! Great job. That will work.

 

[used red MN]

Now, do you or someone near your have a fairly good size tractor and loader or a wheel loader? If so get a heavy iron similar to a chunk of railroad rail, something you can bolt or chain across a rear wheel so it sticks up about 4 ft above the wheel, lock the brake on that wheel. Then flip the tractor on its side and weld up that rear end housing. First drain fluids as needed. May also have to chain or come along a chunk of a log to the front wheel parallel to the tractor to protect the hood and radiator by holding the front wheels off the ground a bit when it is on its side. A chunk of a used utility pole may work across the back wheel as well. Fluid in the rear tires might make this a bit tricky.

 

[36b A]

Now, do you or someone near your have a fairly good size tractor and loader or a wheel loader? If so get a heavy iron similar to a chunk of railroad rail, something you can bolt or chain across a rear wheel so it sticks up about 4 ft above the wheel, lock the brake on that wheel. Then flip the tractor on its side and weld up that rear end housing. First drain fluids as needed. May also have to chain or come along a chunk of a log to the front wheel parallel to the tractor to protect the hood and radiator by holding the front wheels off the ground a bit when it is on its side. A chunk of a used utility pole may work across the back wheel as well. Fluid in the rear tires might make this a bit tricky.

Still try to figure it how I'm going to repair it . It's kind of a U shape and the flap is pretty thin . Hey a bet look at it tonight when we get the 2 point off . I'll start a new post when I get going on that .

 

[Fritz Maurer]

I'd suggest not trying to arc that crack in the rear housing.

The iron might not be the same as the front wheel...cast steel welds a lot nicer with various rods, plus your repair was in the perfect area regarding free expansion.

The rear housing has a lot of various angles to deal with, and if they can't move (confined expansion) as the weld cools, something has to give (the area between your weld and the parent metal).
Nicalloy is not a magic rod that makes everything OK, you still have to deal with the stresses you're going to weld into the metal.

My first choice would be strip the rear housing and turn it upside down in a pit of charcoal and gas weld with cast iron rod....covered with a sheet of steel, to keep the heat in, leaving only enough room to work through.

Or you can tip the tractor on it's side and braze it with a large tip. The large heat pattern of brazing will give some stretch to the surrounding metal as it cools.

You can try arcing it, and you might be successful, but it may crack later when you start stressing the housing in operation.

 

[caterpillar guy]

I'm with Fritz on this best plan would be to strip it and then with it upside down heat it with a fire till hot not red but hot. Then you could weld it either ga or rod or wire and let fire die and casting cool as the fire dies out. Keeping it covered till cool. Some pink insulation around it would be even better for holding the heat from the fire while heating and cooling. This would significantly help with the stress from the weld and relieving it as it cools. Let cool completely then clean it up and reassemble.

 

[36b A]

I'll pull the motor and junk the rest before I do all that . Sold the 10 wheel weights , power steering that leaked bad and the sloppy 2 point hitch plus he bought 8 other various wheel weights 6 of them are sold .

 

[Fritz Maurer]

You went to so much trouble to fix a hub that are a dime a dozen, I figured you were serious. I didn't know you were gonna part it out.

 

[36b A]

I have access to 2 560s in my buddies junk yard are those rear end the same ? Who knows what will happen to it yet .

 

[used red MN]

I have access to 2 560s in my buddies junk yard are those rear end the same ? Who knows what will happen to it yet .

UPDATING WITH THIS REPLY.. Not the same.
This is in reference to his "cracked and froze rear end housing shown in reply 6 in one of his other threads on this project in this link. Earlier thread on F400 This ought to bring on a lot of confusion by those read the opening and reply types.

 

[Ray,IN]

Still try to figure it how I'm going to repair it . It's kind of a U shape and the flap is pretty thin . Hey a bet look at it tonight when we get the 2 point off . I'll start a new post when I get going on that .

Thought you posted you had it fixed in post #4??? Now in post #16 you're parting it out. Your post #19 indicates you're searching for parts, What's up with all that???
I suspect you're just messing with other members.