wet sleeve

[Anonymous-0]

im looking for a sleeve with a roughly 4 inch ID, that can be used as a wet sleeve and have an oring groove cut into the bottom if it doesnt already have one.

 

[ken77]

what is the height?

 

[Dblair]

any auto machine shop can order a sleeve for you get the dimensions or let the machinist take the dimensions it's your call. that is if they want to.

 

[Kip-Utah]

Don't know what lenghth you need, but Allis-Chalmers WC,WD,WD45,D17,170,175 gassers all use a common to find 4" inside diameter sleeve that is machined for an o-ring wet application.

 

[buickanddeere]

Application?

 

[Anonymous-0]

(quoted from post at 10:45:06 07/29/09) im looking for a sleeve with a roughly 4 inch ID, that can be used as a wet sleeve and have an oring groove cut into the bottom if it doesnt already have one.

Find a four inch .125 wall thickness repair sleeve . have youre machinist bore the motor .003 under with a flat step to catch the sleeve . drive the sleeves in bore them back true deck it install the head torqued to the block a day or to then remove head and deck engine again for the sleeves will fall a couple of thousandths everytime.

 

[Anonymous-0]

the height of the sleeve now is a hair over 8 1/4 inch from top to bottom. the height from the bottom to the bottom of the lip is 8 1/16 inch. this is an h farmall block that im planning on boring out through the casting and putting a 4 inch ID sleeve into to get a 4 inch bore. what is the OD diameter of an allis sleeve? and at what height is the o ring positioned onto the sleeve?

 

[Anonymous-0]

od is 4.5 i cant remember if thats the outside lip or the sleeve wall i am thinking its the sleeve wall and the step at top is larger . length is 8 3/4 to nine inches long.

 

[Anonymous-0]

(quoted from post at 10:44:14 07/30/09) od is 4.5 i cant remember if thats the outside lip or the sleeve wall i am thinking its the sleeve wall and the step at top is larger . length is 8 3/4 to nine inches long.

orings are 2 inches up from the bottom . I am telling you its alot less troubel to press fit a repair sleeve they run about 55 dollars each.

 

[Anonymous-0]

(quoted from post at 10:47:32 07/30/09)

(quoted from post at 10:44:14 07/30/09) od is 4.5 i cant remember if thats the outside lip or the sleeve wall i am thinking its the sleeve wall and the step at top is larger . length is 8 3/4 to nine inches long.

orings are 2 inches up from the bottom . I am telling you its alot less troubel to press fit a repair sleeve they run about 55 dollars each.

Chances are also that if youre cutting that much into the sides of the block for the sleeves that water ill not be able to pass around the sleeves and in that case i would rather not have any water in the block as to have pockets creating pressure against the sleeves when steaming.

 

[Anonymous-0]

will a repair sleeve with a thickness of .125 last? i assumed that i wouldnt want to go thinner than 3/16 of an inch?

 

[Anonymous-0]

(quoted from post at 16:46:00 07/30/09) will a repair sleeve with a thickness of .125 last? i assumed that i wouldnt want to go thinner than 3/16 of an inch?

yes they last . how many years do you consider lasting . repair sleeves come in two sizes .125 wall thickness and a thin wall sleeve is .093.

 

[puller1]

kendall,as I stated in the earlier post a few days ago when you asked about a 4 in bore in an H.you don't want to go there.Looks like you are using different screen names hoping to hear what you want to hear that it will work. Save yourself a lot of money and have it done right by furnace brazing them in.I have already tried what you are wanting to do & what mlplanky is suggesting about press fitting them.I hard blocked and the cylinders still did not hold up & the deck is so thin it cracked between # 1&2 &3&4.You will have to offset bore the holes to get clearance around the tops of the sleeves at the studs.The deck has no support at all underneath after you bore the slleves all the way out.You can add a center head stud all the way to ther bottom of the block to help strengthen it.There are some out there that are running like you want to try but not likely to last. Go smaller on the bore and add more strokelike 5.75 or 6"

 

[Drew]

I'll second what you said. Furnace brazing is expensive, but when done correctly is ever bit as strong as the original block. I've seen some nice furnace braze jobs, and I've seen some cobbled up repair sleeve crap. Yeah, it may "work" for awhile w/ repair sleeves. But I wonder how long those thin repair sleeves stay round? Pretty hard to make round piston rings seal in an oval shaped hole.

 

[Anonymous-0]

(quoted from post at 18:57:02 07/30/09) I'll second what you said. Furnace brazing is expensive, but when done correctly is ever bit as strong as the original block. I've seen some nice furnace braze jobs, and I've seen some cobbled up repair sleeve crap. Yeah, it may "work" for awhile w/ repair sleeves. But I wonder how long those thin repair sleeves stay round? Pretty hard to make round piston rings seal in an oval shaped hole.

IS SEVEN TO NINE YEARS A COBBLED JOB. its hard to weld a sleeve in and not have a oval hole for a round piston also . thats why you finish bore both afterwards . if as the guy is saying in the above about a four inch bore is right i dont think a 4.5 od inch wet sleeve is a choice . i have also seen sleeves up against the sides of the next sleeve that they would be no way of welding all the way around also if its a press fit it want leak . know for the rigidity of the deck well thats a promblem inherent to some makes I guess . furnace brazing pretty much makes a block a through away piece also. I guess this is where we agree to disagree.

 

[Anonymous-0]

go to dartons web site under technical advise look at wet sleeves ductile iron they recommend .150 thousandths wall thickness for a diesel with 20 to 1 and 60 lbs of boost. research research . then you know what is a thin wall and what is not for a specific application.

 

[Drew]

Did I say yours was a cobbled up job? No, I didnt. I said I had seen some that were. The furnace brazed blocks I've been around had about 1/4" wall, not near "throw away pieces". If you need to freshen up the bores, there is plenty of material there to do so. The nice part about furnace brazing sleeves in is that the sleeve and deck are fastened together, which dramatically increases the deck strength of the block.

 

[Anonymous-0]

here is the difference if i had a sleeve a 1/4 inch thick then it would have a .100 to.125 overbore from the get go. bigger piston more airflow.

 

[jd b puller]

(quoted from post at 14:45:06 07/29/09) im looking for a sleeve with a roughly 4 inch ID, that can be used as a wet sleeve and have an oring groove cut into the bottom if it doesnt already have one.

I'm not a Farmall guy, but I don't remember hearing of 4" in an H. Experimental stuff isn't for the doityourselfer. If you're that determined to go that big, pay the extra money and have someone like Marlatt or Gary Baker build this thing for you. Or at least talk with them for 5 minutes to see if you're wasting your time. Making it fit and making it work and live are 2 different things.

 

[Anonymous-0]

(quoted from post at 08:31:25 07/31/09)

(quoted from post at 14:45:06 07/29/09) im looking for a sleeve with a roughly 4 inch ID, that can be used as a wet sleeve and have an oring groove cut into the bottom if it doesnt already have one.

I'm not a Farmall guy, but I don't remember hearing of 4" in an H. Experimental stuff isn't for the doityourselfer. If you're that determined to go that big, pay the extra money and have someone like Marlatt or Gary Baker build this thing for you. Or at least talk with them for 5 minutes to see if you're wasting your time. Making it fit and making it work and live are 2 different things.

Ray you have to like a guy that trys something different . after all he is after youre own heart no matter the brand . You see I am just a follower . Ronnie Shipman gets the credit for the first 4 3/4 bore ac 45 took me a while to figure it out.

 

[buickanddeere]

He must have staggered the bores.

 

[dan m]

the 1/8" wall will hold in this application. i would run head up fit in the lower block, and a flange at the deck. the problem i've seen with a straight sleeve in a h block, is the head chamber and gasket doesn't sit on the sleeve all the way around. the deck is weak and leaks where it hangs into the combustion chamber.

 

[buickanddeere]

As previously stated. Furnace brazing the sleeves is the only way to make the block a rigid one piece unit.
Pressed in sleeves may work but it's collection of loose parts flying in close formation.

 

[jd b puller]

Mitch, I also spent a LOT of time and money getting it right. Hard to justify that for a single motor...

 

[Anonymous-0]

Mark Gilmore designed and built the largest H I have ever seen at the time(5 or 6 years ago). He wouldn't tell everything to me but the bore greater than 4". His bore off-sets were not in line but staggered so the center-line of the pistons were not in a line. I don't know how many years it ran that way, but the day I saw it run at Sigourney it ran very well.

My last H ran a repair sleeve setup that sat on a ledge at the bottom. It was a 3.75 bore setup. My machinist had originally insisted on boring the block all the way through the bottom and pressing the sleeves in but the blocks kept splitting on the bottom when the sleeve was pressed in. In the end we set the sleeves on a machined ledge on the bottom of the block and used hardblock up to the bottom of the water jacket cover. I pulled the tractor for 7 years and it never leaked water or had any other issues.

 

[jd b puller]

puller128, give me a call or e-mail, I can help you with your sleeve issue.

919-605-6040