What can I do?

[percy]

Just bought a 1990 3910 Ford tractor with loader,tried to plow driveway, it is useless. Driveway is paved and slightly uphill. I could only push going downhill and then i HAD TO GET A RUN ON TO GET BACK UP THE GRADE. I have no weight on it but have ladder chains. I also noticed that when backing downhill the left back wheel was dragging and not turning,even when I was not braking. Thanks Percy

 

[Larry NCKS]

Is this a hydrostatic drive? I'd guess the first thing you need to do is get the left brake released. Sounds like it's seized on. The second I'd do is check the oil level and freshness in the transmission.

 

[old]

Sounds like you first off have a brake dragging and that will cause you problems like your having. Also the fact you have little or not weight on the rear end is a BIG problem. I use a ford 841 to plow my drive way and I have a loader with a V-plow. My rear tires are full of fluid and I keep a heavy duty heavy back blade on the 3 point along with 6-85lbs suit case weights on the blade and a tractor wheel weight sitting one the center lick area and that helps a lot with out all that weight I would just sit and spin with it I go up a long hill with very little if any problems. Pictures where just posted in tractor talk

 

[rustyj14]

Is this a garden tractor, lawn tractor, light duty farm tractor, or a large farm tractor?
They all have different things that can cause those problems, not always solved by farm folks. Please advise.

 

[percy]

FYI The tires are loaded with calcium cloride. Also this is a 46 HP tractor. The transmission is a standard synchromesh high and low range stick shift. Thanks Percy

 

[old]

Well if that one wheel seems to be locking up that will cause you major problems and will not pull when you need it to because it is dragging that one side and only pulling with one wheel. Find and fix that first also do you have something on the 3 point or are you running with nothing back there that makes a big difference

 

[Ultradog MN]

Did you try using the differential lock?

 

[RodinNS]

Everybody scoffs when I remark that you don't want a loader on any Ford tractor with the light utility (swept back) front axle.
You just found out why.......
Best thing to do in the short term is find the biggest, heaviest impliment you have and mount it on the three point hitch. 1000 pounds would be a good start and handier 2000 will do a lot more. The other thing to do is free up the differential lock pedal at your right heel if it's stuck... and get familiar with using it. You're going to need it, a lot.
Those tractors ~require~ MFWD to be of any use as a loader tractor.

Rod

 

[Anonymous-0]

Are the chains going between the tread bars? How far does the loader bucket stick out. Dave

 

[Firewood]

I think Old is right on, you got a problem somewhere.
At 4500 pounds plus a loader it should do better.

He is also correct that adding some wt on the back will help.
The "ladder" chains are marginal but if you have to plow blacktop they are probably all you can use. So Wt and a fully functional tractor should do the best possible.

 

[Tom in CO]

Sounds like you have a stiky or brake that needs adjusted. You also may need a lot more weight in the back. What size of blade do you have? Try not to let the blade hit the ground. Once the blaed hits the ground a lot of the weight is transferd to the ground and off of the rear tires, which equals less traction. I have a 2600 with a fel, loaded tires with chains and a 8ft. blade. I pull going down hill and with all that weight back there I sometimes loose traction on my steep driveway. So I just go slow and make a lot of runs at it.

 

[Bern]

Hydrostatic? Larry, either you don't know your Fords very well, or you had a brain fart!

 

[RodinNS]

I can't really see those brakes sticking unless the pedal is actually sticking on it's pivot... and you ~should~ notice that.
If you want to check the brakes, get on level bare road, preferably asphalt. Lock the pedals together, get it up in high gear and brake... If it bares left, that brake may be tight. You can also try observing wheel movement in third or forth gear while just starting away... you may notice that wheel lagging slightly behind. Either way... if it is tight, crawl under the left footboard and back the adjustment off some such that the brake rod can retreat into the housing a bit more. Probably no more than 2 full turns of the nut...

Really... I doubt you have a brake problem. What you're seeing is just a phenomina of that differential when it's on poor footing and about to slide... Be carefull.
I really can't see you having a brake problem unless the rear axle has been run without oil for some period of time. It'd also not be uncommon for that tractor to not need brake adjustment for 3-4000 hours.

Rod

 

[Shetland Sheepdog]

Hi Rod, Once again, I'm in agreement with you concerning the brakes! I wonder what the reaction would have been if that wheel had started turning backwards as often happens in that situation! Concerning an earlier post, i would agree that a loader on my 5610 would be [u:6b5f431388]much[/u:6b5f431388] better than on the 3910, but I manage to get by with a little judgement in how I use it! It sure beats the snot out of using a # 14!
Always enjoy reading your posts!
Dave

 

[percy]

Thx for all your help! I got a 45 gal drum,drilled a hole through both sides and put a rod through the holes and fastened this to my 3 pt hitch.Then I filled the drum with gravel which I beat apart with a bar.(Frozen here)What a difference!,I plowed driving up my driveway without spinning a wheel. I don't know what this weighs but this is at least a start!