What would you do

Anonymous-0

Well-known Member
I have an 860 Ford tractor and this spring when I was plowing I blew a head gasket. We had the head shaved and the new gasket put on and tighten down at the correct torque in correct order. After we finished we started the engine and ran it about 15 minutes and re-torqued. I noticed that there were tiny bubbles coming from around the gasket.I have been running the tractor two hours a week and the bubbles are still there. I don't seem to be losing any water and the temp and oil pressure is fine. Would you re-do or run it as is.
 
You say 'at the correct torque' and retorqued after 15 min running.

I am wondering if this engine is wet lined and liner(s) was (were) low.

Has the torque wrench been checked for accuracy (they usually go low if they are wrong)?

How did you retorque?

Were cylinder head bolts and cylinder threads scrupulously clean?

Was service manual followed or gasket manufacturer recommendations?

Regards, RAB
 
Used or new fasteners used? Did you chase the block threads with a tap and de-burr the top thread?
Has an engine oil analysis detected anti-freeze in the lube oil?
 
Have the torque wrench checked for proper cal.or borrow one thats been checked and re torque the head. I hope this works. Have a good weekend all.Regards, John
 

I had a tractor with an 855 Cummins in it that would do that while idling, but stop when you put it under a load. I ran it several years like that, but kept a close eye on the water and oil to make sure they weren't getting contaminated or mixing...

HH
 
Torqued at about 65 and ran it about 20 minutes and retorqued at 70, it bubbled, Then we torqued at 75. Still bubbled.I think the head had been shaved before and now one push rod barley hits the valve cover. Probably need another head.
 
I got the gasket at a local Ford dealership and a man who works at NAPA said that this has happened before and the napa gaskets solved that problem. don't know?
 
If the head has been planed several times, is it possible that the head bolts are bottoming in the holes, thus giving you a false torque reading?
 
Presumably a gas engine? Can't say from what you tell us whether it has been done 'correctly', or if is recoverable or not. Just not enough information.
In addition to the extra points made above by B&D (and others?), I would say that if exhaust gases are passing the fire rings you will likely, in the long term, to need another skim - either the block or the head. Reference the push rod - put shims under the pedestals to correct the valve gear alignment. Another likely pssibility is an hydraulic lock under you head bolts.
RAB
 
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