Is it single or dual rear? The singles in 55 have very little offset while the duals have about 5". Once you tell me what you have I can give you options. Stu
 
Your solution is to find a set of either of two tubeless one piece wheels produced by the Budd Company beginning in 1956. The wheels are 17.5" x 5.25", have your 6 lug x 7.25" bolt circle, and use the same coined style lug nut mounting. They use either 8-17.5" bias ply or 8R17.5" radials. The part numbers are 71320, the earliest design having six hand holes, or it's replacement having three hand holes, Budd number 79120. These were used by Ford through 1966, and by Dodge, IHC, and Studebaker on their comparable one ton models. No manufacturer uses or produces wheels having this bolt pattern today. I'll try to link below a CL ad for a set now available in the Phoenix area. The pictured wheel in the ad is #71320. You'll want the seller to find the part numbers on the wheels to ensure you are buying the right wheels. The numbers should be stamped into the drop center on the concave side. Stu
F 350 wheels
 
ok thanks
the only other trouble are the steep gears are in it probley in the 5.00 or higher don't very good for the roads now days, a guy could switch out the rear end with a newer one but what would you do for the front
 
This is where you begin to accept that it's an old big truck. Geared for work, not road speed. If you swap in a Dana 60 rear axle to get better road speed you have a mix of bolt patterns. There's no simple fix for changing front hubs that I've read of. I do know of a guy that did the custom machine work to swap 8 x 6.5" hubs onto a 59 F-350 if you decide to do it, it's been done. Then the next challenge will be to gain better brakes to handle the increased road speed. Easier to just put safe wheels on it and accept that it is what it is, just my opinion. Stu
 
if you could find a front axle with disk brakes then you will have better brakes I do know were you are coming from
 
Nice idea, but not that simple. Old trucks like yours have steering components on the outside of the frame while newer drum and disc brake axles have inboard steering. Not a simple matter to get steering geometry to work. Stu
 
motor homes but they are so wide I do no of a couple guys that cut down a straight axle for a 1950 chevy pickups in the 3/4 they put in out of a p

I will do move thinking about it and see what happens im putting a Detroit diesel in it
 

Might be tempting to consider maounting that '55 body onto a newer, more modern frame. I THINK the frame rail width would be the same all the way up to 1972? Up to and including 1964 would still have the straight front axle. After that Ford went to the twin I beam front axle.
 
I thought about that it is a pain to get all the panels line up also I think the older one are not as wide as the newer ones
 
Not compared to custom machine work, Gear Vendors o/d unit, or factoring in your time trying to force the body onto a later frame. Imho.
 
I bought a 48 KB5 dump , dual wheels. The previous owner swapped the diff for higher speed , but now it's 8 bolt. The front is still 17 " split rim 6 bolt like you described on your ford. I have a flat head 6 and I have to take off in low gear not second because the diff is geared to high . The original diff was 2 spd and I prefer to have it all original but it is what it is . I think tires from Coker are still available, but up here there is only one company that will change the split rim .
 
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