Which model Fluke Multimeter?

Don't have a multimeter at this time and have never used one. But I need to get one to use around the place for general use. Which model would you recommend?

Tim in Montana
 
I'll probably get flamed for this, but I'd say save your money and buy a half-dozen of those cheap Harbor Freight multimeters. I got one for use at my vacation home and it's so handy I got a couple for use at home.
 
Not gonna directly flame fred. I have some HF
stuff. Some of it has been good some not so much.
For me I wouldn't touch a HF multi meter with a
ten foot pole.

Now in answer to your question. Really depends on
what you are gonna do with it. I have maybe a
dozen of these and don't have a fluke. Couple of
snap on/blue points, some craftsman and various
other brands on down to one in the category of a
HF at my wifes house in India. Between my dad and
I we picked alot of them up at pawnshops.

Are you working on electronics projects? If so
you should get something decent that meets the
specs you need. If you are diagnosing a 12v
system you can lots of times just use a testlight.
With jumper leads a testlight will even function
as a continuity checker. Of course if you need to
check stuff like fuel guage senders and other
variable circuits once again you need a multi
meter.

Now if you are working on higher voltage stuff
like house or shop circuits may I suggest a Wiggy
or the like. I think square D makes the genuine
wiggy, there are other brands also. When working
on this type of electrical I usually reach for a
wiggy and or clamp on ampmeter. Wiggy is just
more handy than a V/O meter and you need a special
attachment to read up in the area most circuits
run.

For a first unit I would suggest looking at
Craftsman. Would also suggest getting one that
will read Capacitance if this is the only meter
you are likely to own. I rarely use that feature
but nothing else will do if that is what you will
need.

JM2CW

jt
 
Probably depends a bit on what you're doing with it...
I use an UltraPro (NAPA) meter that's made by Fluke for automotive applications and it has some specific automotive features such as dwell and a couple other little things like a tach... that I use occasionally... but still like to have... and IIRC, they were not available in a Fluke ~branded~ meter. This one also has data logging features that I use when I'm stuck working alone on some things... so I can capture min/max/mean values. Especially usefull in flasher circuits...

That said.... if you don't need that stuff than probably any cheap 50 buck jobbie will do for average use. Just don't expect pinpoint accuracy...
In all honesty, if you've never used a meter before... you probably don't have a need for a good Fluke. They're the top end when it comes to meters.


Rod
 
I have an auto-ranging Fluke. It is some what slow producing the readout. I like the HF cheape meters. They usually don't last long when used in a rough environment.The displays will stop showing the complete numbers. There are coupons for a free meter in some magazines right now. I think Successful Farming had a coupon and Popular science. You can often download a coupon online from one of the consumer coupon deal groups.
 
I've had a Fluke 77 for over 20 years. It does about everything I ever need. It's also been terribly abused (dropped, drowned, run over, baked, frozen) and just keeps on working. All it's ever needed is a fresh battery and new test leads every few years.

I also now have an 87 III. It adds several handy features like true RMS capability, min/max memory, a higher resolution (and faster) bar graph display, a display backlight, Hz function (can double as a tachometer), etc. Nice stuff to have, but not really necessary for a basic DVM.

However I too have one of those cheap Harbor Freight DVM's in my toolbox. (Purchased it for $1 a couple years ago at a yard sale). It works fine for routine voltage, current and resistance tests. But when I need better accuracy - and for personal safety when working with higher voltages - I always use one of the Flukes.
 
If you are not locked in on a Fluke, I have a friend who is an electrician and he let me borrow his Ideal 61-702 Multimeter. I figured if it was good enough for him it ought to be good enough for me. I found one on ebay with a carrying case that looked brand new for $70 and it lists for over $200. I have a couple of lab type VOM"s (Simpson and Triplett) but the Ideal is handier to use and carry.

(P.S. Where are you in Montana? I"m in the Mission Valley.)
 
I have a high end Fluke multimeter that I use about twice each year. When you need a very accurate voltage or resistance reading they are the best.
However in everyday farm equipment repair you rarely need that kind of accuracy. Also I have found on general repairs that an analogy meter with a needle is more useful than a digital one. You will get changing reading due to bad wires/grounds/etc. that make the digital ones not show a reading. You can see the trend on the needle moving and start diagnosing your problems on the analogy meter. An example is a bad voltage regulator on an alternator. The voltage can swing wildly up and down five volts or more an the digital will not give you any type of reading but the analogy will show a swinging needle that you can see the highs and lows on.

As far as brand, I have bought the last two at Radio Shack. I have a cheaper one ($19) that I carry in my pickup glove box, it gets used the most. Seems I am always needing one when I did not think I would. Grain bin fuses, bad tail light grounds etc. The better one that I keep in my shop tool box cost about $50. It has much better leads and is more accurate. A big advantage to these two being from Radio Shack, is that the local one has replacement leads on hand at a reasonable price. You will fry the ends off on old starters and etc.

So if I was just starting to do equipment repair or even simple electronic repairs I would start out with a economical analog multimeter. That way you can learn how to use one and see how good of one you need at a reasonable startup cost.
 
I have an HF digital VOM I bought a couple of years ago, and it's done everything I've asked of it. Voltage readings, resistance in plug wires, etc.

Now, speaking in generalities, I became acquainted with VOM's when I got into avionics in the Marine Corps in 1954, been using them ever since, and one thing I've never figured out. Why do so many VOM's have voltage scales of 1 to 10, 1 to 100, 1 to 1,000, etc, when most voltage readings you take are around 12DC, 110AC, 220AC, etc?

Same with resistance. Some don't have a scale lower than 1-20 K ohms. Not much good when you're trying to figure out if a ground wire is a solid connection like it should be, or maybe has a small resistance.
 
Forgot to mention: I also have an ancient analog DVM (a Simpson 260) I use for old generator-equipped equipment.

It works better than the digital meters - especially the cheap ones - with the electrical "noise" present generator/regulator charging systems.
 
What's "general use"?

Fluke makes very good multimeters, but quite frankly there are some cheap DMMs on the market that will probably satisfy your needs for a LOT less money.

How many digits of resolution do you need? 3-1/2 digits is pretty common, meaning the display will handle 000 through 1999. (In other words, if your measuring 1 volt it will display 1.000, but if you're measuring 3 volts it will display 3.00. The "half" digit is the leading "1".) Most folks will be happy with even a 2-1/2 digit DMM. Many of the more expensive multimeters have 4-1/2 digit displays, which you probably don't need.

Do you need True RMS (root-mean square) AC voltage capability? Most meters use peak-averaging to measure AC, which is perfectly fine for line power but is inaccurate for non-sinusoidal waveforms, such as those generated by inverter generators. This is a case where if don't know what it is, you probably don't need it.

Frequency capability can be very useful. That's the one feature I miss on my meter.

The Fluke 77 has been the mainstay of their line for about 30 years. I've had mine for about 20 years and it has worked flawlessly despite a lot of abuse. The current version, the 77 Series IV, includes frequency and capacitance measurements, features I wish mine had. It doesn't do TRMS, but it's probably the best choice for 99 percent of us. Expect to pay over 200 bucks for one.
Fluke 77 Series IV
 
Depends. I keep a $20.00 discount analog
multimeter around for those times a digital meter
won't measure. Due to noise or an oscillating
signal.
 
I have several meters including Fluke 77. Sometimes
you just have to have analog meter- if you are just starting out get a less costly meter and learn. Get a better meter when needed.

Jack345 Swan Lake,Mt
 
(quoted from post at 22:33:14 05/01/11) Don't have a multimeter at this time and have never used one. But I need to get one to use around the place for general use. Which model would you recommend?

Tim in Montana
Fluke 77 IMO. I've had 2 for close to 30 years. One is in my shop, the other in my electrical tool kit. On one, I finally changed the battery about 10 yrs ago. Don't use them every day, but they're reliable and they HAVE been dropped, tossed into tool boxes, left on overnight outside (though not in the rain or snow). I've also bought the cheapie multimeters for my daughters (along with other basic tools). Not they'd know how to use one but when I've gone to their dorm rooms or apartments, seems like there's always some problem they want me to fix. Beats lugging around all my toolboxes. The cheapies are good for basic electrical tests (shorts, voltage, etc)
 

I want to thank everyone for their 2 cents worth of advise. I've always heard that "If your going to be a cat, be a wildcat". I went on ebay an bought a Fluke 87. It is alot more than I will ever need, but I'm a wildcat.

Tim in Montana
 
You'll be very happy with the 87. The main thing the 87 provides over the 77 is True RMS. Not essential, but nice to have. Peak-averaging meters assume a perfectly clean sine wave, where peak voltage is 1.414 times the rms voltage. But if you're measuring a square wave, Vpk and Vrms are the same, resulting in a huge measurement error.

I believe the 87 is a 4-1/2 digit multimeter, which for most purposes is of no advantage over 3-1/2 digit meters. But again it's nice to have the extra precision, along with the extra accuracy of the 87.
 
(quoted from post at 05:18:15 05/03/11) You'll be very happy with the 87. The main thing the 87 provides over the 77 is True RMS. Not essential, but nice to have. Peak-averaging meters assume a perfectly clean sine wave, where peak voltage is 1.414 times the rms voltage. But if you're measuring a square wave, Vpk and Vrms are the same, resulting in a huge measurement error.

I believe the 87 is a 4-1/2 digit multimeter, which for most purposes is of no advantage over 3-1/2 digit meters. But again it's nice to have the extra precision, along with the extra accuracy of the 87.

1st time and even many experienced digital meter operators either don't know or need to be reminded of the old "range' adjustment trick. That is to dial back the amount of digits to one or none on the right side of the display's decimal. If the signal has noise or tends to oscillate.
 
I have always used a Fluke 77IV. Rugged little thing and takes water and diesel pretty well.I used to have a 260 but got tired of lugging that thing around. Gets heavy when you are hanging off a ladder.
 
You are getting many excellent comments on this subject.
Many brands of DVM's will provide accuracy, repeatability, and possibly longevity similar to a Fluke, but as far as I know of, not better than a Fluke. If you buy a Fluke, you won't have to wish you bought a better quality DVM.
But, as several have already explained, it depends on whether you want or need absolute accuracy, relative accuracy, or test light accuracy.
Its hard to beat a DVM that is small enough to fit
in your shirt pocket if you need relative accuracy, but don't expect it to set any records for accuracy and repeatability. A Fluke 189 or equivalent is expensive, bulky, and harder to carry around or climb with unless you need its accuracy. A good rule of thumb is don't carry a
DVM that you can't afford to drop on the job that
you are on. Your responses have given you some good information to consider, now you only need to satisfy the man in the mirror.
 
Guess I'm late here but I have a few. Need an analog and some cheapie HF ones scattered around so they are handy. Best thing for checking a motor or A/C compressor to see how many amps they are pulling is a clampon ammeter. Motor starts pulling too many amps, you can identify the problem.
 
I'm a GM/Ford dealer tech and bought a Fluke 87-5 because that is what GM recommended. The good thing about the series 5 is it's lifetime guaranteed.
 
I have an old Fluke model 73 I think it is. Used it for 30 years or so and still going strong.
 
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