Wood boiler fluid ??

Just use 1/3-2/3 antifreeze water mix and shut the pump off when not using the stove.Or drain water out of stove when using.Many guy's just use water in their systems.
 
Up North, that is the only way they install them,with antifreeze mix. It may not happen with extreemly well insulated water lines that go from Outdoor furnace to house, but no one wants to dig out and replace water lines in the middle of winter,plus it also helps lubricate the pump.
Just a word of advise, check out what the price ,if installers price of anti freeze, and see what you can get for a price at the local Oreilly,Napa,etc for a discount price.Around here some of the heating contractors build up their price of antifreeze per gallon more than what you can pay for at a big box store.Can"t say every heater installer is like that, but neighbor had a new Outdoor boiler installed, the contractor wanted an extra $1500.00 for just the antifeeze mixture.Hope it helps. P.S. make sure the water mixture has low iron content in the water,keeps from having build up inside the lines and water passages,just like a vehicle engine. Just a thought.
Regards,
LOU & Victor
 
For the open water systems, it's a pretty spendy antifreeze, but it's what it needs, regular antifreeze will boil off through the vent/ other issues and not do you any good.

Menards and other chain stores suppliers sell it, so as mentioned, check around. Mix it to different freeze points just like car antifreeze, depends where you are/ how cold it gets.

--->Paul
 
I think they just use plumbing anti-freeze that is way cheaper than automotive anti-freeze and way safer. I believe it's non toxic.
 
If by plumbing antifreeze you mean propylene glycol, that's what we're required to use in jobsite hydronic heating systems. Conventional ethylene glycol, (the green stuff used in automotive applications), is prohibited.

Propylene glycol is much more expensive than ethylene glycol. We buy it in 55 gallon drums and our cost is about $800 per drum, or $14.54 per gallon. Contractors have told us that when they've purchased it in smaller quantities for their own ground-thaw/concrete-curing machines from a plumbing supply or boiler servicing dealer, they often get charged upwards of $23 per gallon.

Propylene glycol is usually completely clear, some of it may have a slight yellow tint. When a propylene glycol/water mix is tested to see what temperature it will protect a system to, a hydrometer specifically for propylene glycol should be used. An ethylene glycol hydrometer won't be accurate. Alternatively, a refractometer can be used for testing.
 
I have reg. anti freeze in mine. It is the stuff that is the new one that is suppose to be the green type. I got it from a place that leases water pumps and when they came back off a lease they changed all the fluids in them. They gave me 2 55 gal drums of the used anti freeze. I have been using it for 6 years now and have only added water to the dtove once in this time. I check it once a year and I have not seen any rust in the system at all.I burn this furnace year around as we use a lot of hot water.
 
(quoted from post at 20:18:55 01/16/12) Up North, that is the only way they install them,with antifreeze mix.

I'm much further north than you and most everybody with OWB's that I know runs straight water with the manufactures additives to control PH and such, no anti-freeze.

If you plan on leaving during the winter I've heard of people using the pink RV anti-freeze mixed in their boilers.
 
Not aware of many around these parts running anything but water and anti corrosion chemicals as do I. There is an efficiency penalty when you run antifreeze, comes to me like 30% less efficient? No experiance with it just what I have read. My plans if I were ever go away mid- winter are simply open drain valve plus drain the lines down at least to below grade. 175 gallons of water and $10 worth of chemical puts me back on line.
 
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