Wow! What A Rush!!

[Allan in NE]

Okay,

Don't hollar at me about my "make-shift" ignition switch and my "temporary" fuel supply......hey, it works out here in the boonies. :>)

Had to fix a loose connection at the starter field terminal, hooked the juice to the pump, hit the starter and it didn't rotate 1/2 a turn before it was running.

Rpms flared for about 10 seconds while it worked out some air in the system and then it just settled down and ran like a Gleaner. Let 'er run for about half an hour.

I'm tellin' ya, that sucker sounds good! Brokenwrench was right; that was nothing short of an old fashioned, blood pumping RUSH!

Never did offer to smoke. Can ya buy Gleaner tractors? :>)

Allan

 

[Anonymous-0]

Congratulations - you were about due for some good fortune.

 

[Sloroll]

The old sow cleaned up pretty good too!

 

[Anonymous-0]

I'm writing this knowing that we are many miles apart. Maybe you'll have to trade those red tractors in on orange ones. Ok, calm down, just kidding.

 

[Merlin in Rushford]

Hello, Allan!
Looks good...probably sounds even better! I used to work for Cummins/Onan in St. Paul, Minnesota as a Field Service Generator technician. A lot of the older (i.e. 1970's-1980's) Onan generator sets used Allis-Chalmers engines. Very smooth, and very dependable. The only problem I recall was that the fly-weight damper ring in the Roosa-Master pump would begin to wear-out, and little black flakes of neoprene would clog-up the fuel return line restrictor orifice on top of the pump housing. The engine would run erratically, then stall. Take a moment to pull the fitting, and check for chunks. There is a little glass check-ball inside the fitting. Have fun!
Merlin

 

[Allan in NE]

Oh yeah,

Ran into that little problem with the other machine lat summer in the wheat field.

So, was really looking for it; so far, so good. :>)

Allan

 

[super99]

Ya gotta love it when a plan comes together! Chris

 

[Allan in NE]

Has a "seepy" radiator that the PO had told me about. Awfully darned slow; think maybe a jar of Bar's Leak will cure that hooter.

Bearing on the tailshaft seems to "rumble" (maybe I'm just hearing things); but, gonna replace it and the jackshaft bearing just because.

ANyhoo, the "gamble" is over for now. Next big bridge I gotta cross is that Hydrostatic tranny. Crossing fingers, crossing fingers. :>)

Allan

 

[mike2366]

Looks good and Clean now. Always have liked the 2800 engines. I remember how smooth my Dads 73 F Diesel ran. That was one good old machine.

Good work Allan

 

[Sloroll]

Heck Allan, take the Hydro out of the 70!

 

[Anonymous-0]

Been enjoying the saga, but I'm curious.

Why not take the rad out and get it fixed properly?

That addative stuff ends up blocking the passages and is only a temporary fix at best.

Besides, after that engine is hoisted in place, are you sure you wanna have to change the Rad later? Fix it now and be done with it.

Other than that, it is looking really good.

 

[Brokenwrench]

Had to leave for a while on a parts run, the whole time I was gone I was wondering if you got her going. Man after you cleaned her up, she looks nice. Gonna fit right in behind the old silver bullet.

"One small step for man, one giant leap for guys stuck at work vicariously living thru Allan"

 

[Steven f/AZ]

(quoted from post at 14:01:20 12/05/07)
Never did offer to smoke. Can ya buy Gleaner tractors? :&gt

I believe they were called "Allis Chalmers" -- dunno which tractor would have had an engine similar to what you have, though.

Don't use Bar's Leaks, Silver Seal or any other radiator goop for that matter. Allan, you do us right proud by always fixing things the right way - don't get lazy on something like a simple coolant leak!

 

[farmer boy]

The 185 Allis Chalmers would have a 2800 engine although I wouldn't call it the smoothest running engine in the world but maybe it's just that one tractor. The 2900 on the other hand runs real nice and smooth. Be quite a big releif when it started up.

 

[Hoosier Pete]

Tell ya what, I started turning wrenches for a living back in 67. Haven't done much in the last 7 years but anytime I lit the wick on one I had down it was always a rush. Guess it don't take much to amuse me.

 

[LilFarmer]

Allen,

The Hydro unit is self contained with the exception of the cooling lines that run up to the engine. If these have been unhooked for any length of time, I would suggest unhooking them down at the hydro and flushing them real good with brake cleaner or something similar and then blowing them out with air until dry.

I wouldn't think too much crap would have migrated to the tranny, but a fresh charge of oil wouldn't hurt a thing before you fire it up.

Paul

 

[Allan in NE]

The resivour is still full of oil. Planning on changing the fluid and filter before spinnin' it up.

Can you give me any tips on how to change out that tail shaft bearing? Does the hog's head need to come off the engine or can I just yank that pulley affair clear at the back?

Thanks,

Allan

 

[LilFarmer]

Boy Allen, I don't recall ever changing one of those bearings and without a parts breakdown I couldn't be sure.

Just going by the way other engineering was done at the time, I would think you would have to remove the "hogshead" and there is either a snap ring or retainer plate on the inside. Can't be sure though.

Maybe I can find some info tomorrow or maybe someone else here knows.

Paul

 

[37 chief]

Been waiting to hear the news. I wouldn't be afraid to use the stop leak on the rad. leak one bit. My GMC Sufari van had a small leak at the head to manifold corner. Used one tube Aluma seal, and no more leak. If I am not mistaken GM lists stop leak pellets as a repair item so, it can't be that bad on the system. Stan

 

[Allan in NE]

Oh heck yeah,

I hear ya, been using the stuff since forever and
never, ever had a bad experience.

This thing is more of a "damp" than leaking anyway. :>)

Allan

 

[fixerupper]

It's always a rush no matter how many times you do it. It really cleaned up nice too. I'll bet you start her up again tomorrow "just to do it".

I put a junkyard engine in a neighbor's pickup once, but we started her up on the shop floor first. I think it was a Chevy 327 if I remember right. We filled the block with water and he held his finger over the oil gauge port. I forget what we did for fuel.
The shop was kind of noisy for a minute or so before we shut it down. The next day when he was at work he told some co-workers about it and they told him an engine wouldn't run if it wasn't in the vehicle. Little did they know!

I've done it numerous times since then on rebuilt engines that are going to sit for quite awhile before going into a restoration project. It gives me a high every time they roar to life.

Jim

 

[sd pete]

I never did it on a F. On my M the hogs head had to come off to replace the bearings. Does the hydro have the flex plate on the fly wheel? Mine was gear and I changed it out at the same time. But its been many years ago and with a failing memory it hard to recall the details. I do remember a 560 and f 10 loader came in handy to bring that heavy thing down to earth level. I brought mine into the dealer"s shop as it needed to be pressed together. The M 2 was a big improvement with out that big heavy hogs head.

 

[paul]

My old International grain truck had the mechanial fuel pump go out, dad had the mechanic put an electric pump in.

The electric pump died on me at the grain elevator. I barely got it off the scale & out of the way.

Borrowed a friend's boat fuel tank, hooked the hose onto the carb, bungie corded the tank on the hood, & drove it the 5 miles home. On a state highway even.

So, your fuel supply looks fine to me, what's the problem?

--->Paul

 

[Kansas Cockshutt]

Congrats Allen!

I have been watching your posts with great interest and wish you the best of luck. Now if you would only keep the cold air up there and just send down the moisture

 

[Mitch Furness]

Allan what tractor were those motors put into? What HP is it.

Mitch

 

[Mitch Furness]

Q answered by posts below.

 

[Allan in NE]

Engine is rated at 84 horse.

Not really an Allis tractor guy, but I "think" they were used in the 180s and 185?

The 190XT had the 2900 with the turbo if I have my facts straight.

Allan

 

[Anonymous-0]

Way to go Allan...but you and I both know...you will not be happy until that leak is fixed right.
Go ahead and fix the radiator now while it's on the ground...be a lot easier.

 

[Leland]

I hope you survive this project ,the excitment level could get near fatal .

 

[TripleRange]

Correct you are...301 cu in if I remember right. Grandpa has 2 185s. Both with blown front main seal...a common problem. Also don't care much for the rotamaster fuel pump as the engine speeds can be difficult to keep smooth. But they still run!

 

[Spritzer]

I'm glad for the measure of success and satisfaction you've had thus far, and hope the rest of the project is as productive as the past has been. Been watching this from the beginning, and interesting to see how fellow-enthusiasts can help make this a "success story". I'm a restorer also, but of a different kind.

 

[Retento]

Allan, Ya need to find you a clean little Allis 185 to go with the Gleaner. My cousin had one, it would crank in the winter when nothing else would, could do alot of work on a little bit of fuel. It was just light, had 9L-15's on the front and 23.1-30's on the rear, just needed them all full of ballast.

 

[Bill(Wis)]

I had only one problem with that stuff and it was no big deal but it could have been. Had a 1/4 inch or so hole in a side tank and used (I think) Bars Leak and, Wow, it stopped the leak. I noticed a little later that the engine was running on the hot side. Let it cool down and removed the thermostat which was plugged with what looked like aluminum sand. Engine was OK but given more time? Good idea to examine the thermostat after using that stuff.