Yanmar 336d

[mrbuckslayer-HT]

How can I tell what year my Yanmar 336 d was made ?

 

[SDgray-HT]

Looks like the year spread for that model was 1980-91,a pretty long run. If those are like a ym1500,the serial#=year isn't really known,you may have to look for date codes on original components or a casting date on cast iron parts-my 1500 had casting date of 75.8.9 on chassis and all the major electrical parts and the hydralic pump had 1975 date codes.It has been reported the wheels sometimes have a date stamp but i didn't find that on my 1500.

 

[alan-HT]

Only Yanmar knows, and I doubt they're very communicative but you could try asking them. Few tractors, except for recent and/or costly ones, go by years rather than by models. Especially Yanmars.

Why do you ask?

 

[mrbuckslayer-HT]

Serial # is 00108...............Does that help ?

 

[winston-HT]

<QUOTE author="mrbuckslayer"><s>

</s>Serial # is 00108...............Does that help ?<e>

/e></QUOTE>
I would guess that to be a 1980 model.

 

[DaveinCT-HT]

i heard that the rear bolt patter will differ from earlier models to later models,not sure if its true but early models had a wide bolt pattern....

 

[mrbuckslayer-HT]

Ok , thanks for all the info.............I was told by the previous owner that it was a 1981 model. I was just checking to see if that was accurate.........Also, has anyone rebuilt the front axles seals on one of these ? Both sides are leaking from the lower pivot points. Is it hard to do ? I have an original Yanmar service manual and I am very mechanically inclined but I just like to know what I'm getting into before I start......... Also, One wheel has lots of play in it when I raise it off the ground too .... The play seems to be coming from the final drive area though, not the same place where the seals are leaking........... And one last thing ,for now , LOL............ when I bought this tractor someone has changed the seat and this model sits way too far forward and there is no way to move it back without major mods to bolt plate because it is all the way back against the hump......... Any recommendations on a brand or model of seat to replace this with that will fit the tractor correctly ?

 

[winston-HT]

Assuming you are talking about the knuckle seals leaking. Here is a good article. http://www.hoyetractor.com/Yanmar_knuckle_seal.htm They are not that difficult. I have replace both of mine plus some of the bearings on my 2002d. Here is a thread on it that might help a little. <LINK_TEXT text="http://www.tractor...-2002d-4-wheel-drive-spindle.html</LINK_TEXT>

<LINK_TEXT text="http://www.hoyetra...e=SEAT&amp;Category_Code=336SEATS</LINK_TEXT>

 

[alan-HT]

If the leak's not bad you could switch to a heavier gear oil like 140. Otherwise, took me two days for the first and two hours for the other wheel.

 

[mrbuckslayer-HT]

I was just wondering if there were any special hints or tips anyone could give me before I start on changing the seals and diagnosing the wobble ?......Any special tools needed ?............ I have an original service manual and I am confidant in being able to tackle it............ .......... the seals on both sides ,lower are leaking.......... Not a LOT ,but definitely enough to leave a stain/small puddle each time it sits in one place........ Its probably about 4 oz leakage ...........

 

[Barry-HT]

You probably have the old style front axle (same as my JD1050) and plan on buying the repair collars that fix the wear on the lower spindle housing (HAS-6064) also get the special seals that go with them. They get grooves worn in them,and just new seals won't fix the leak. Guess how I know <E></E>
You probably need a few new bearings,I don't remember needing any special tools other than a seal driver kit.I am going to try one of the Harbor Freight driver sets next time-real hard to find something the right size to drive the seals in because they go in backwards and all you have is the thin lip to drive them in. When you take apart the outer housing,take all the bolts out,and there are a couple of threaded holes to screw bolts into to push the whole works out of the housing.There are a bunch of shims that hook over 2 bolts at a time,and 2-4 shims to each pack,and they are different thicknesses.Try not to let them all fall out and get mixed up,or you will have to mic them and figure out which ones go together so they are all the same thickness.

 

[alan-HT]

Expect things to be twice as heavy as they look, and to need various kinds of jacks.

 

[mrbuckslayer-HT]

Thanks for the info..............This is good info to know...................... I will start on it soon. I did check out the replacement collars and seal kits from Hoye.......... I'm pretty sure I will need those since the guy I bought it from says he replaced the seals once and they just continued to leak, so I'm guessing he just used the standard seals and not new collars......... Does anyone have any ideas about what I should look for as a source of the wheel wobble ?.......... when wheels are raised off the ground one wheel (don't remember which one ,right now) has considerable wobble to it..... seems to be in the outer,or final, drive area inside the hub area

 

[Barry-HT]

I've had to replace outer bearings on both sides of mine(and Seals) more than once. If you are lucky you won't have to replace the expensive inner bearings. The outer bearing and the bottom bearings are the ones that I have had to replace several times.(5000 hours)
My poor tractor spends most of it's time going sidehill on steep hill sides,and it puts alot of stress on the front axle bearings.Don't have an acre of flat ground out of 100 acres.
The outer bearing on the final has 2 seals-1 seal and 1 thinner wiper seal,I've never had to replace the seal wear collar.My whole axle is old style but the inner roller bearing was new style (Hnj-306E $54) so don't order untill you pull the final.All my wobble was caused by the outer bearing .
The whole job is pretty easy,except for the major pain of trying to dig the old seals out and trying to drive the new ones in without damage.

 

[mrbuckslayer-HT]

Ok, thanks again to all.................. By the way, my tractor only has 2100 hrs on it and it is in very good condition for its age (1981)................ The guy I got it from mostly used it to mow with and took care of it well..........It has the "old style" front axle. I will let ya know how it goes when I'm done .... Thanks

 

[DaveinCT-HT]

just an fyi, my early 336d with towers like u describe on yours did not have room for the sleeve repair,if you find the same issue u can get a hold of gary jameson who has a variety of seal sizes and get them to seal up,clean the tube real good, hoye may also have other sizes other than those listed in the parts page,its a very doable job....keep us posted

From CT

 

[Barry-HT]

Dave,
Can you explain a little better "Not enough Room" ? I still have to fix mine,and was going to use the repair collars this time. Are they too small to slip on,or too big to fit in the seal hole ???
Thanks,
Barry

 

[DaveinCT-HT]

they slip on the tube fine once the burrs are clean,there is not enough room for the seal to slip over the sleeve.....the lower housing cast barely clears the sleeve, the seal is just enough(or too much) to not allow the fit, however a replacement seal with a bit smaller(tighter) ID cured mine,which leaked alot...on both sides, it did take a few destroyed speedi sleeves to convince this thick headed enthusiast....I love the speedi sleeves however these on the early tube just dont fit-Funny side note when i had the tube clean and the sleeve on.. the seal fit so nice on that sleeve surface,broke my heart to realize that the lower half with the new seal in would never go over it...........so i cut it off and started over...again
Good luck,keep us posted w what you find in yours

 

[Norm-HT]

I find it very hard to believe that Hoye sells parts that don't work.
<LINK_TEXT text="http://www.hoyetra...E&amp;Category_Code=3364WDEXT-OLD</LINK_TEXT>

 

[mrbuckslayer-HT]

Well I got one side torn apart (right side)....... It was the worst side....... I could actually watch the gear oil run out of the bottom of the final drive. I found out that the main problem was the stub axle bearing had fallen apart and caused the seal to leak bad.... I found a lot of shavings inside the housing.. There is no apparent damage to any of the housings. I am replacing all bearings and seals because the shavings had made their way around to all areas and damaged them too. I also found that the knuckle seal had worn grooves into the pivot housing. I am ordering the repair kit for that too.... Has anyone ever used these repair kits ? The repair sleeve must be pretty thin in order to fit ??? I don't understand how it can seal to the damaged area and not leak ??? I have the old style axle and I noticed that the new style has replaceable collars as part of the design . Are the repair collars I ordered just basically an upgrade to the new style ? On the bright side everything came apart very easily , even the bearings drove off without any problems !!! Man, that's a first for me !! .... OK enough for now , I will keep ya updated as it progresses................ Let me know if ya have any answers or suggestions ............Thanks, Doug

 

[Barry-HT]

I think the new style is machined down for the replacable collars.Davein CT used the repair collars,but had trouble with the seal being too tight (Look up at his post)Did you order the special seals that Hoye says you have to use?
I have yet to fix my leak,but have used repair collars on chevy front harmonic balancers,and I think it came with a red loctite,or some sealer??
Were your outer and lower bearings open? My originals were open,the cages broke,metal everywhere.I got new ones from Ebay,and they were sealed,so I removed the seals,put it back like it was,and they didn't last a year.Next time I left them sealed,and still no problems after 3 years.
Hoye shows a 6211-2RS outer,and 6209-2RS lower,and 2RS means double sealed.I thought running in gear oil,that they shouldn't be sealed(greased) but so far so good.Let me know if the ones they send you are in fact sealed.
All my repairs were done before I knew HOYE existed,and I didn't know repair collars were available-next project after the hay is up.(maybe)

 

[DaveinCT-HT]

you will find the repair sleeve to be rubber lined and a real slick design,the seal is made for the sleeve, by the way hoye was great when i had trouble w mine,we got to the bottom of it but there was no way mine were going to fit. I too had some bad bearings and metal chips upon closer inspection. Glad you found this a relatively easy repair, these are great tractors to work on and I am told they were designed for field repairs as needed.......keep us posted on your progress, you may also want to look at the needle bearing(s)as the only part or that bearing that was left on line was the cage..... <E>:lol:</E>

 

[DaveinCT-HT]

i believe it number 8, pt #HNB 3110

 

[mrbuckslayer-HT]

Well ,I got my parts yesterday and started repairs today....... everything went together very well EXCEPT the repair collar seal......... I damaged it trying to install it... I will order a new one Monday... I also discovered that there is no way that collar is going thru the opening in the housing and I haven't tried to install the collar on the shaft yet either.... I'm a little confused as to how to install it ..It is rubber lined. Do I have to heat the shaft first ? I don't want to damage the replacement collar too.... should it just slip on or maybe tap it on ?............ I wish they had a video of this repair........ BTW, all my new bearings were sealed and I left them that way............ Let me know if anyone has any answers or tips on the installation of the collar and seal

 

[DaveinCT-HT]

you may have the same issue as i had, i made up a plastic seal driver, from a custom turned piece of pvc tubing to drive the collar on and yes they are tough. You might speak w hoye about a smaller (id) seal instead of the collar if you think it wont fit once its together,get an accurate measure of the tube...my experience w the collar is once its on you need to cut it to get it off....keep us posted

 

[Norm-HT]

<QUOTE author="mrbuckslayer"><s>

</s>Well ,I got my parts yesterday and started repairs today....... everything went together very well EXCEPT the repair collar seal......... I damaged it trying to install it... I will order a new one Monday... I also discovered that there is no way that collar is going thru the opening in the housing and I haven't tried to install the collar on the shaft yet either.... I'm a little confused as to how to install it ..It is rubber lined. Do I have to heat the shaft first ? I don't want to damage the replacement collar too.... should it just slip on or maybe tap it on ?............ I wish they had a video of this repair........ BTW, all my new bearings were sealed and I left them that way............ Let me know if anyone has any answers or tips on the installation of the collar and seal<e>

/e></QUOTE>
Normally one would heat to expand or freeze to contract as necessary, parts such as this, for easier installation.

 

[mrbuckslayer-HT]

I got it all back together and it looks great........... I don't know if it leaks because I didn't have enough gear oil to refill it. DUH !!! ....... I had to grind out the opening in the housing a little to allow the new repair collar clearance....I did destroy the first seal trying to install it <E</E> .... that was a costly and time wasting mistake...... No problem tapping the collar onto the spindle though...... Everything is tight and right now !!! I will let ya know if it leaks (doubt it will )......... Now I will move on to the other side ................The other side is leaking just a little around the spindle seal area and I suspect it is in need of a repair collar and new seal..........Will keep you all updated ........... These tractors are really a pleasure to work on

 

[DaveinCT-HT]

Congrats mr buck,post some pics of the next side. Curious about the grinding to get the repair sleeve to fit, i too dmamaged one the first time thru....they are great tractors,you will be pleased once the leaks are gone......

From CT <E></E>