Yeeouch ! Machinist's help please

Larry806

Well-known Member
I called to order bushings for a field cultivator , it takes 2 per shank . There are a hard steel bushing .
Out side bushing is 1 inch outside and 3/4 inside
Inside bushing is 3/4 outside and 1/2 inside .
Both are 2 1/4 long .
I need 50 of each . The dealer just told me the outside is over 12.00 and the inside is over 9.00 . a piece.
I would buy lengths and cut it down my self . It has got to be quite a bit cheaper somewhere else ??
 
Try McMaster Carr,they sell bushing material by lengths,what you need is a common size.
 
Hardness is a small quantity problem. A machine shop probably can't carve and heat treat them for the dealer's price.

I didn't seem them jump out of the Shoup catalog, but it might be useful to check Shoup (www.shoupparts.com) or Sloan Express (www.sloanex.com).

Gerald J.
 
This is not harden but I can get the 3/4 by1" for $4.00 a foot and the smaller one for $1.00 a foot.

Just Cold Rolled hardness.

Gary
 

Go to a steel supplier that has Shelby tubing get the appropriate size. Make your cuts. This tubing is soft. So you will have to Heat Treat it. since you need only need a hard surface you can do this in most any farm shop yourself. Use Kasenit you will need to heat these to a red color by any heating means. Apply Kasenit as directed by label quench as directed instant hard to at least RC60.


Hardening process; Cherry Red same as Kasenit
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9tlsq2ESQz0
Kasnit compound
 

Kasenit Hardening: Technical Specifications & Use

Notes:
# Produces a wear surface (surface hardening) on low carbon steel, low alloy steel, iron.
# Non-poisonous, non-explosive.

Application instructions (from Kasenit) for Low Alloy or Low Carbon Steel:
There are two methods of application.
Method A: Heat the work uniformly to a bright red (1650 - 1700 degrees F), remove any scale with a wire brush, dip, roll or sprinkle the Kasenit powder on the component. The powder will melt and adhere to the surface, forming a shell around the work. Reheat to 1650 - 1700 degrees F, hold at this temperature for a few minutes and quench in to clean cold water. This will give the component a completely hard case of uniform character and depth.

Method B: If a deeper case is required, then a container for the compound can be used. A discarded can, lid or tray is suitable for this purpose, but care must be taken to burn off the tin coating before use. Completely cover the component with compound and heat to a bright red (1650 degrees F) for five to thirty minutes, depending upon the depth of case required. Quench only the component in clean, cold water unsing dry tongs for handling.

Rates of Penetration: After heating the component to 1650 F using method B,
# Case depth .005, Time 15 minutes
# Case depth .010, Time 30 minutes
# Case depth .015, Time 40 minutes
# Case depth .020, Time 50-55 minutes

Method for Cast or Tool Steel:
Heat the article to a light yellow. Deposit it in powder and leave it there until its right tempering heat is reached (see list below). Then plunge the metal into clean, cold water. This will bring out the hardness and also prevent cracking.

Heat Tempering List:
# Small cutting or turning tools, cutting edges of knives, planing tools and reamers, small case hardened parts:
Light straw color, 440 F
# Carbon steel milling cutters, large cutting or turning tools, slotting tools and small punches or dies:
Straw color, 460 F
# Drills, small taps, profile cutters, screwing dies and hammers:
Dark straw, 480 F
# Press dies, shears, wood cutting tools:
Orange, 500 F
# Chisels, large punches, pressing dies and cutlery:
Light purple, 525 F
# Saws, drifts, large dies and heavy chisels:
Purple, 540 F
# Springs or portions of tools to be locally tempered to give maximum resilience:
Blue, 560 F
 
Hey Larry,place up in Findlay has steel bushings,1/2X3/4, 2 7/16 long,$2.23 each,3/4X1, 3 1/2 long,$5.70 each,I got the 1/2X3/4 for my FC couple months ago,worked ok,Bob.
 
Remember its a piece of farm machinery that runs in the dirt so don't get to excited about having top grade bushing material. I would look at Black pipe and see if they one that will fit then cut to length I did this on Feed for a NH baler worked great.
An old machinest once told when I was working tree shakers "Its farm machinery don't get to excited about making it perfect."
Walt
 
I rebuilt a old cultivator a couple years ago, for bushings I just used pipe, I am never going to wear it out. Just grease it every time you use it.
 
Benjamin Steel is going to have me 2 lengths in the morning . Sales man said I need to increase my order to get to their 150.00 minimum order . I'll get some angle just to have around .
Thank you all for helping .
 
Aint that the truth! I worked at a machine shop that did farm repair for 4 years and I love when a farmer came in with something.

Lots of sprockets as that was our main product, but we'de get running gears that broke a spindle, draw bars off of tractors, and just abo9ut anything else any normal farmer would fix instead of buy new. I did a lot of stuff for myself too. Just punch out & work on it when I had a chance. It's still some of my favorite things to do is fix farm machinery, even though I don't work there any more.

Good thing I can always go home to get something to work on....

Next project might be a Gehl manure spreader if we buy it.

Donovan from Wisconsin
 
i have rebuilt several of these . i just use black pipe and face it to length in the lathe. it is a piece of farm machinery thats runs in the dirt. keep it greased and it will be fine. where are you located.
 
sounds like you went to a local dealership around here.. where are you from? benjamin steel isnt verry far from me.
 
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