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YM1500 WILL NOT RUN

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wayne c-HT

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My YM1500 was doing fine pulling a 4' tiller though it would bog down when I hit hard spots and black smoke would come from the stack. After either rasing the tiller or just getting pas the spot there were sparks that came from the stack. Then it acted like it had a load on it when it did not and shut down. After it cooled down it cranked back up and was OK for about 10minutes and shut down again like it was pulling a heavy load but it was not. Then it would n ot crank back so I pulled it home with the truck. I tried but it would not crank that aftrernoon at all. Black smoke came out of the stack but it would not cdrank.
The next day I tried it again and though it was hard to crank it did crank and ran with no smoke from the exhaust altough there was a lot more smoke coming from the "blow by" tube and more oil than before. I shut it off changed the oil and cranked it agian but it only ran for a minute before it bogged down and quit running again. This last time there was alot of black smoke that came from the stack also.
What could be the issue or issues? Is there a good mechanic in the Georgia 30720 area code that I might get to look at it? Not sure about a diesel engine. Could it be the rings only?????
 
Hi Wayne,
Try removing your muffler &amp; see if it still does it. All of your symptoms are classic Yanmar <I><s></s>plugged muffler syndrome<e></e></I>. <E>:D</E>
 
I took the muffler off and cranked it but it only ran for 20 seconds or so with the black smoke pouring out like it is choked till it quit running on it's own. I have removed and blown out the air filter and even tried it without the filter but it would not crank again. It is like it will crank once and then not again till the next day.It is very hard to crank now nothing like it used to. It used to fire right up at no effort.
 
I think you have internal problems with oil coming out, blow by and fire coming out the exhaust. I see no less than pulling the head. <E>:(</E>
 
excessive blow by would come from compression lost through the rings into the crank case (would happen gradually). Have you checked the oil level? Have you made any changes to the tractor recently?
 
What do you mean by "crank"? The starter cranks the engine. Whether it starts or not is another problem. Is the engine seizing when it won't crank, or is it cranking and just won't start?
 
When I say "cranked" I mean it started and ran under it's own power for 20 seconds before gradually choking itself down. Black smoke was coming from ther exhaust while white smoke (more than usual) was coming from the Blow By tube. I have just changed the oil so it is full. The motor is turning easily with the starter so it is not siezed up. It has always had smoke coming from the Blow By tube with a small amount of oil coming out also, but now it seems to be more. Should there be any oil coming out of this tube?
 
Does that mean a ring job or something else.Is there a rebuild pkg. that comes with everything you need or is it a piece by piece order. I am afraid I might not get everything needed. The hour meter only shows 576 hours of which I have put 17 of those on there myself. I haven't had a reply on a mechanic in this area but I am willing to try it myself. I have a manual to go by, but is therE a video or something also. I don't want to do half the job if there is something beyond the rings that needs to be addressed while it is torn down. HELP!!
 
The oil is to the top of the cross hatch markings on the dipstick. I put four quarts in of 20w50 castrol oil.Temps around here are in the 90's right now.Should I drain some of the oil out??? Is that too high on the stick??? It had 10w40 Valvoline prior to this, and that is what was in it when it quit running.
 
Others can't answer the question without knowing the condition of your engine (size and condition of pistons, size of bore, condition of rings, condition of seals, etc). Do you have a manual? The manual gives the acceptable sizes of all the components. Replace the ones that are out of tolerance. It's pretty straight forward.
 
<QUOTE author="Arnold"><s>
</s>excessive blow by would come from compression lost through the rings into the crank case (would happen gradually). Have you checked the oil level? Have you made any changes to the tractor recently?<e>
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/e></QUOTE>
no changes
 
Wayne, seems you have had some blow by for some time but I'm also wondering with the mention of white smoke if you may have blown your head gasket. Is your over flow bottle at the right level and any evidence of oil in water or water in oil? When it was running did you ever notice any bubbles in the over flow bottle or radiator? I would take it slow and easy, don't order any parts till you have torn down and analyzed some. In those 17 hours you have put on the tractor have you added any oil?
 
Did the tractor run OK using 10W40 valvoline? The 20W50 castrol may be causing problems (not sure why but sounds like the only change was the viscosity of the oil). Is there anything else that's changed from when it was running OK and now?
 
Have you eliminated bad fuel as a problem? If it used to start and run good, and you have only put 17 hours on it, something has come up fairly suddenly. Black smoke could easily be a fuel/injector problem. It's awfully hard to troubleshoot a disassembled engine.
 
Have you eliminated bad fuel as a problem? If it used to start and run good, and you have only put 17 hours on it, something has come up fairly suddenly. Black smoke could easily be a fuel/injector problem. It's awfully hard to troubleshoot a disassembled engine.
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There is no oil in the coolant nor water in the oil. I have filled the tank with fresh diesel , took the bowl off and wiped it dry, fuel filter was clean and no evidence of water in the fuel. Reassembled and bled the fuel line @ the injector pump with the full tank of fresh fuel. I let it flow long enough to purge the old fuel out of the line.Not sure on the fuel injector.
I want to say to everyone who has replied a very big THANK YOU for being patient. I am very much a novice at this and your patience is greatly appreciated. What may seem straight forward to you pros is a little intimidating to me. Again thanks to everyone. Keep the suggestions coming.
 
Replaced the fuel in the tank with fresh fuel. I have purged the fuel line and checked the filter wiped out the bowl and bled the injector pump inlet free of air.Not sure if the injectors are working.
 
Did the tractor run OK using 10W40 valvoline? The 20W50 castrol may be causing problems (not sure why but sounds like the only change was the viscosity of the oil). Is there anything else that's changed from when it was running OK and now?
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It quit running with the Valvoline in it.But it was running fine up until this point.I changed the oil,hydralic fluid, and fuel filter @562 hours right after I purchased it and everything was working fine..
 
Wayne, seems you have had some blow by for some time but I'm also wondering with the mention of white smoke if you may have blown your head gasket. Is your over flow bottle at the right level and any evidence of oil in water or water in oil? When it was running did you ever notice any bubbles in the over flow bottle or radiator? I would take it slow and easy, don't order any parts till you have torn down and analyzed some. In those 17 hours you have put on the tractor have you added any oil?
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Haven't added any oil and there is no water in the oil nor oil in the coolant. SWould the head gasket make the blow by smoke and oil more noticeable?
 
Have you eliminated bad fuel as a problem? If it used to start and run good, and you have only put 17 hours on it, something has come up fairly suddenly. Black smoke could easily be a fuel/injector problem. It's awfully hard to troubleshoot a disassembled engine.
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TYhe above reply was from waynec . It went through as guest. sorry!
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The mention on an earlier post about white smoke and oil and more of it coming out the vent tube just doesn't sound like anything but blow by to me. It sounds to me your oil level is fine and even tho a good brand of oil made specifically for diesels might be better I don't think your oil change is the problem. I'll encourage you here to keep waiting on some more suggestions as long as they are coming in. These guys are pretty sharp on here. I hope it ends up being minor but I'm stuck on internal right now.
 
If it ran OK with the 10w40 oil and had problems with 20w50, I'm thinking it was something that happened at the same time you were changing the oil. The 20w50 oil itself shouldn't cause those symptoms. sometimes it takes awhile to clear the air out of the fuel lines. will it re-start? if it runs, does it sound like it's trying to run smoother or rougher over time?
 
If it were mine I would rent, buy, beg, borrow, or steal a compression tester, (Aaron has the Yanmar <s>[url=http://www.hoyetractor.com/...ct_Code=CTA&amp;Category_Code=]</s>adapter<e></e>[/URL], and probably the whole tester), looking for about 500psi compression. While you have the injector out, re-install it upside down in the fitting, crank the engine over looking for a cone shaped spray pattern, anything else is a bad injector, (or pump). With low compression in just 1 cylinder, if good valves and HG, it's overhaul time.
 
<QUOTE author="Arnold"><s>
</s>If it ran OK with the 10w40 oil and had problems with 20w50, I'm thinking it was something that happened at the same time you were changing the oil. The 20w50 oil itself shouldn't cause those symptoms. sometimes it takes awhile to clear the air out of the fuel lines. will it re-start? if it runs, does it sound like it's trying to run smoother or rougher over time?<e>
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I have not been able to get it running again. It turns over easily with the compression release on but when I flip it off I get black smoke out the exhaust and it doesn,t turn over well like it has plenty of compression but will not start.I thought about trying to pull it off to start it but I am affraid that might do further damage.
 
<QUOTE author="Norm"><s>
</s>If it were mine I would rent, buy, beg, borrow, or steal a compression tester, (Aaron has the Yanmar <s>[url=http://www.hoyetractor.com/...ct_Code=CTA&amp;Category_Code=]</s>adapter<e></e>[/URL], and probably the whole tester), looking for about 500psi compression. While you have the injector out, re-install it upside down in the fitting, crank the engine over looking for a cone shaped spray pattern, anything else is a bad injector, (or pump). With low compression in just 1 cylinder, if good valves and HG, it's overhaul time.<e>
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When you say Aaron has compression tester do you mean for sale? I may pull and check the injectors as you suggest tomorrow just to see if the are performing as you stated.
 
<QUOTE author="wayne c"><s>
</s><QUOTE author="Norm"><s>
</s>If it were mine I would rent, buy, beg, borrow, or steal a compression tester, (Aaron has the Yanmar <s>[url=http://www.hoyetractor.com/...ct_Code=CTA&amp;Category_Code=]</s>adapter<e></e>[/URL], and probably the whole tester), looking for about 500psi compression. While you have the injector out, re-install it upside down in the fitting, crank the engine over looking for a cone shaped spray pattern, anything else is a bad injector, (or pump). With low compression in just 1 cylinder, if good valves and HG, it's overhaul time.<e>
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/e></QUOTE>

He used to sell them, but I don't find them listed now, just the Yanmar adapter. Ask him. If the engine won't turn over fast enough to start, that's a whole 'nuther problem.
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You can make your own puller using pieces of aluminum and an all thread rod. There is a picture of the puller in the manual. Don't believe the sleeves have a waterproof paint. The antifreeze should protect the sleeve from corrosion.
 
How do you get the injectors out if they are tight. The one on the left came out just by twisting it back &amp; forth with a wrench. I checked spray pattern and it was good. The other one will not come out that way. As a matter of fact the top unscrewed while I was trying to twist it back and forth. Is there an injector puller or is that something I can make?
 
We made a remover that basically screws into the base of the injector and pulls it out. This is the only way we have found to remove them without damaging them. We should have more back in stock in about a week. Our lathe broke down so we had to stop selling our pullers and compression testers for a while until we could get more made.
 
<QUOTE author="Aaron"><s>
</s>We made a remover that basically screws into the base of the injector and pulls it out. This is the only way we have found to remove them without damaging them. We should have more back in stock in about a week. Our lathe broke down so we had to stop selling our pullers and compression testers for a while until we could get more made.<e>
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How do I order these items??
 
I have read of several guys that have removed stuck injectors by just loosening the retaining nuts and blowing them loose with compression, but I was criticised mercilessly on another forum for even mentioning it. Never found out what the objection was, but it makes sense to me.
 
<QUOTE author="Norm"><s>
</s>I have read of several guys that have removed stuck injectors by just loosening the retaining nuts and blowing them loose with compression, but I was criticised mercilessly on another forum for even mentioning it. Never found out what the objection was, but it makes sense to me.<e>
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You mean losen the nuts and turn the motor over to blow it out?
 
<QUOTE author="wayne c"><s>
</s><QUOTE author="Norm"><s>
</s>I have read of several guys that have removed stuck injectors by just loosening the retaining nuts and blowing them loose with compression, but I was criticised mercilessly on another forum for even mentioning it. Never found out what the objection was, but it makes sense to me.<e>
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yep
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<QUOTE author="Norm"><s>
</s><QUOTE author="wayne c"><s>
</s><QUOTE author="Norm"><s>
</s>I have read of several guys that have removed stuck injectors by just loosening the retaining nuts and blowing them loose with compression, but I was criticised mercilessly on another forum for even mentioning it. Never found out what the objection was, but it makes sense to me.<e>
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/e></QUOTE>

yep<e>
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It did not work.
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<QUOTE author="Norm"><s>
</s>No need to go further until you can test compression on the 1 cylinder.<e>
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Is there anything I have to do to the head before replacing it on the block after the piston job? Does it have to be milled?? Any pointers on what not to do when removing everything? I am thinking like you said it is the compression on #1 cylinder. I loosened the injector on #2 Cylinder and it popped right out when I turned the motor over as was stated in a previous answer.
 
Not having a head problem would indicate your head is probably OK. After you clean it up real good use an accurate straight edge across the head and a feeler gage checking for warp. If you have a manual it will show how to do this. Straight down each side and then angled across both directions. 220 manual calls for .001" new and up to .004" used. If it exceeds this or you see any possible problem with valves or seats you would want to take it to a head shop. May not be necessary but I like to put my push rods back in the same position they came out. I'm pretty particular in placing parts in an order to aid in reassembly. Some take pictures as they proceed. You can do it without a manual but if this is your first head job I would advise a manual for you.
 
I would take the head to a machine shop.Not telling you how to Do your Donkey but there is alot more to checking out the head than just cleaning it up and checking to see of it's warped. For example you could have a carbon buildup on the Valves that won't let them seat properly. Worn Valves or Valve Guides ETC. that you would have to disassemble it to clean or replace. They would most likely Vat it to remove any build up in the PORTS Intake or Exhaust that you can't get to most likely.And check to make sure it's not cracked. Well worth the extra peace of mind knowing you won't have any problems with the Top End. <E>:wink:</E>

Carey
 
OK I just recieved your injector removal kit #IP-4450. Is there suppose to be something besides a slidehammer with a threaded end that makes up this kit. If not it does not fit my injectors. The threads are too large to screw into the top of the injector. I didn't know if since it is a kit if there were various adapters that are suppose to come with it. I took the top off the injector and removed the spring but the remover will not screw into the injector because it is too large. HELP PLEASE!!!!!!!!!
 
OK I just recieved your injector removal kit #IP-4450. Is there suppose to be something besides a slidehammer with a threaded end that makes up this kit. If not it does not fit my injectors. The threads are too large to screw into the top of the injector. I didn't know if since it is a kit if there were various adapters that are suppose to come with it. I took the top off the injector and removed the spring but the remover will not screw into the injector because it is too large. HELP PLEASE!!!!!!!!!
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Never mind I figured it out. By removing the retainer studs I could get the lower half unscrewed.The remover works well in that part. I know what everyone is thinking "what a dumb#$#@. Live and learn I guess.
 
<E>:lol:</E> Welp I have a good feeling what you said to yourself after it came out.I seen your post about it. I didn't have a clue about it either
 
Sorry for the late reply. There should have been an instruction sheet included with the kit. Was it not in there? Glad you got it figured out.
 
Sorry for the late reply. There should have been an instruction sheet included with the kit. Was it not in there? Glad you got it figured out.
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No. There was nothing with it.It was just rolled up in lots of brown paper with the other items I ordered. At least the other guys made me feel a little better by not knowing also. After I studied the break down photo in the manual I came to the conclusion that I had to somehow get the lower half off but the studs were in the way.I got them out by locking the two nuts together on the top of the studs and backing them out with a socket.
I thought maybe it was like a toothbrush that I should know what to do with it. Anyway it worked well and I got the stubborn injector removed and it seems to test out allright.Now that I have removed it, it also will pop out simply by turning the motor over. Any updates on when the compression adapters will be available? I still have one on back order and would like to check it out prior to rebuilding so that I would have a before and after comparison on the compression. I have about decided it has to be done but would like to make sure prior to the expense and effort. I have learned alot in the last several weeks. Thanks to everyone who has replied with either information or encouragement.
 
We are not sure what to do about out compression testers. The lathe finally broke that we use to turn the adapters down and I just cant justify buying another one just for that one purpose. I have the tester "blanks" ready but they just need to be turned down a little to fit the specific tractors. If you have a friend with a lathe then we would be happy to sell the kit to you &amp; you could finish them. Just an option.
 
I just took off the valve cover and noticed there was a lot of crusty like black material around the #2 cylinder valves. It was only on that side. I washed it out with WD40 so it wasn't like stuckor burned on. also noticed the last valve seemed loose compared to the other three. Anything wierd about this?? After adjusting the valve I put it back together and it cranked and ran for a long time. I actually had to shuit it off myself. It still doesn't idle up likeit did so I am still looking at a ring job I quess. There was still smoke and oil coming from thr "blow by" tube, but not as much as before so the valve may have had something to do about that.
 
Well I tore the engine down Saturday and discovered my problems.
1) The rod bearing was gone off the #2 cylinder. I had to polish up the crankshaft where the rod had scored it.
2) The piston and ring were broken on the #1 cylinder where the #2 ring sits.
I have honed out the cylinder walls which amazingly were not demolished.
I am looking forward to getting it back together.
I knew it was bad when I removed the oil pan and all those metal shavings were in there. It looked like shreded tin foil. Is that normal or could someone riged something up just long enough to sell it?? Also what would have busted the piston on #1 cylinder. Seems odd it would run for the time I had it before it went down like this. Any iideas out there???????????
 
If you haven't you might want to mic the crankshaft to make sure it's ok, sounds like just scratched a little. Once a bearing starts self destructing it can make metal flakes quickly. It is interesting the broken piston is not the same cylinder as the bad rod bearing. Wondering if anybody ever used starting fluid on it. Whole thing is sort of mysterious but I'm glad you have went deep enough to get a good fix.
 
How long have you had the tractor? Buy from private owner, dealer, any warranty, even good will from seller. You are looking at a few hundred $ in parts.
 
If you haven't you might want to mic the crankshaft to make sure it's ok, sounds like just scratched a little. Once a bearing starts self destructing it can make metal flakes quickly. It is interesting the broken piston is not the same cylinder as the bad rod bearing. Wondering if anybody ever used starting fluid on it. Whole thing is sort of mysterious but I'm glad you have went deep enough to get a good fix.
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Do i need to pull the crankshaft and have it milled. Is there anyway I could get it out of round with emory cloth only???
 
How long have you had the tractor? Buy from private owner, dealer, any warranty, even good will from seller. You are looking at a few hundred $ in parts.
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I have had it for 4 months and put 14 hours on it. Bought it from an individual as is so no recourse other than learning how to fix it myself to keep the cost down. If I could have found someone to fix it I probably would have gone that route, but now I am so far into it I don't see backing out now.
 
The crankshaft is probably ok. If you check diminsions with a micrometer you are looking for it to be perfectly round. Crankshafts can obtain a flat spot if run long enough with a bad bearing. Doesn't sound like your situation, just thinking it might be easy to check while you are at the point you are at. A fine emory cloth will not damage your crank. Good idea to polish it a little.
 
The crankshaft is probably ok. If you check diminsions with a micrometer you are looking for it to be perfectly round. Crankshafts can obtain a flat spot if run long enough with a bad bearing. Doesn't sound like your situation, just thinking it might be easy to check while you are at the point you are at. A fine emory cloth will not damage your crank. Good idea to polish it a little.
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The crank shaft measures 1.9575 while the rod measures 2.0665 inside diameter without the bearings. Had to use a digital caliper since I don't have a micrometer.
 
Did you check your crankshaft od at different intervals around the clock to make sure it doesn't have a flat spot. You have a manual which should have your rod journal diameters.
 
"The crank shaft measures 1.9575 while the rod measures 2.0665 inside diameter without the bearings. Had to use a digital caliper since I don't have a micrometer."

You need to include the rod bearings to determine the size of the rod. The manual should give the upper and lower size limits of both the crank and the rod (with bearing).
 
"The crank shaft measures 1.9575 while the rod measures 2.0665 inside diameter without the bearings. Had to use a digital caliper since I don't have a micrometer."

You need to include the rod bearings to determine the size of the rod. The manual should give the upper and lower size limits of both the crank and the rod (with bearing).
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The manual states 2.1246 - 2.1240 std. vaalue with a 2.1224replacement limit. I am only getting 1.9575 that's .1671 less than max and .1649 less than replacement limit. The rod bushing is suppose to 2.1278 - 2.1260 with replacement @ 2.1299. i am getting 2.0665 without the bushings. The information doesn't jive with actuals i'm getting. How hard is it to get the crankshaft out? I read the book instructions and it seems a little intimidating.
 
waynec,
If your measurements are correct, the crank is seriously under-size and needs to be replaced (call the Hoye parts desk and see what's available). How comfortable are you in using calipers? Calipers are not the best tool for measuring the crank and rod diameters but it can be done. Regardless, it's unlikely that you would mis-read the calipers by 0.1649. Chances are the rod diameter is a problem too (can't determine without knowing the diameter w/inserts). As long as the rod isn't beat up, you can put new inserts in and get the right diameter. Is the engine is still in the tractor? To pull the crank you will need to split the tractor and pull the engine (not as hard as it sounds). There are links on this site for guys who've shown how they re-build Yanmar engines (use search box in top right corner). There are videos on YouTube.com on how to do this also.

I know there are a lot of pages on this post and some of the questions may have been discussed earlier. Sorry if that is the case.

Arnold
 
Something is wrong in Denmark. That is over 1/8" difference. The 1500 shows .010 and .030 undersized inserts, but not 1/8"! Is the book you have for a 1500 or a close cousin. I would ask Hoye to share the insert size for the 1500.
 
Having thougt about this a little more I am convinced your manual is giving bad info. I don't believe your crank is worn or has been turned over 1/8". Maybe you stated and I missed it, but did you ever check the crank journal for out of round? If it is not out of round I'm thinking there is an insert to fit it. Don't pull that crank until you talk to Hoye.
 
Ok after your input I reverse engineered and measured the good bearing and journal that are OK and working. While my measurements may not be exact they should be consistent since I measured these the same way.
Crank Journal = 1.9745
Rod bearig inside diameter = 1.9625 and this is with the bearings intact.
What do I look for on You Tube to see this video? I don't spend a lot of time on the computer other than this message board and email.
The oilpan gasket I ordered does not match the bolt configuration of my oilpan. The gasket I got was 4 holes on the east/ west sides and 2 holes on the north/ south sides. The eXploded diagram of the 1500 engine block in the Hoye online catalog looks exactly like mine with 4 holes on each side. Is there a clue here??? Does the serial # INDICATE ANYTHING???
 
Ok after your input I reverse engineered and measured the good bearing and journal that are OK and working. While my measurements may not be exact they should be consistent since I measured these the same way.
Crank Journal = 1.9745
Rod bearig inside diameter = 1.9625 and this is with the bearings intact.
What do I look for on You Tube to see this video? I don't spend a lot of time on the computer other than this message board and email.
The oilpan gasket I ordered does not match the bolt configuration of my oilpan. The gasket I got was 4 holes on the east/ west sides and 2 holes on the north/ south sides. The eXploded diagram of the 1500 engine block in the Hoye online catalog looks exactly like mine with 4 holes on each side. Is there a clue here??? Does the serial # INDICATE ANYTHING???
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I am refering to the rebuild video mentioned above.
 
Waynec, I am pretty much confused, maybe you are too. Your first measurement of the bad journal was 1.9575. This last measurement of the good journal was 1.9745. That is a difference of .017". The clearance on your last measured rod bearing of 1.9625" would be .012". That is completely out of specs. Allowed clearance should be between .001" and .003". I'm wondering if you know anyone you could borrow a micrometer from. Another thing you might try without to much expense is to buy some plasti gauge from an auto parts store and check your clearance on the bearings. You need to talk to Hoye about the gasket being wrong. I'm going to look for that video and if I find it I'll be back. Probably will anyway.p
 
Here is a post from Roland a few months ago. He posted videos of his re-build as he went through the process.

quote:Hello I am back I have the Pistons out and Need new Pistons and Cylinders .Pistons have cracks in them I have attached 2 Youtube videos to show my progress http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TV-DwnrIFaA And also this Video http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RtMsAwGMxBQ I will video My progress . Next stop is my machineshop Were I will Check flatness of the Head Check Bore sizes of the connecting Rods Ect .quote.

Once you are in youtube and watching a video it will recommend similar videos on the same subject.
 
Frankly, I never mess with all those measurements. If the surfaces look good, and are round, get new bearings and put it together with "Plastigage". If the gauge shows correct oil tolerances, (.001-.003") or whatever, You are good to go.
 
I Agree Norm. If the Crank Shaft needed repaired or resurfaced otherwise it should be fine. If there was a problem most likely it would be with the Bearings.

Carey
 
<QUOTE author="Norm"><s>
</s>Frankly, I never mess with all those measurements. If the surfaces look good, and are round, get new bearings and put it together with "Plastigage". If the gauge shows correct oil tolerances, (.001-.003") or whatever, You are good to go.<e>
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II guess I can get "'Platigage"' @ a parts store. What exactly do you do with it? Apply it to the bearing and install then take it off to see where it is thick and thin? How does it show the correct tolerances?
 
Dang I have no Idea how I managed to just about put the same reply on this one also Crap!!!!!! <E>:roll:</E> Sorry about that????? <E>:oops:</E>
 
Ok I bought a micrometer. the good journal measures 1.940 the bad journal measures 1.9267. The #1 cylinder was loose with a regular bearing so I put a .10 undersized bearing in and it made a good fit to the crank and seems ok. The #2 bearing was still loose with a .10 under size bearing so I may go to a .30 on it. I guess the crank has been turned at sometime or all the numbers I have in the manual are off. Still working on it through the rain showers. I'm sure this makes no sense to everyone including me but I am conmtinuing on. Just wondering if anybody has ever measured a crank like this in a YM 1500 and if they got readings like this?
 
Wayne, I'm plumb perplexed, expect you are more so. That is .013" difference in good and bad journal. We really don't know what new crank is suppose to be. I do know these two things, if your bad journal is out of round a bearing won't last. 2nd thing I know is if you have over .003" clearance on either bearing it won't last. You have not stated whether you checked the bad journal at intervals around the clock to see if it has a flat spot. Also, you need to check clearance with the plasti gauge. You can't just feel it and judge it to be ok.
 
<QUOTE author="winston1"><s>
</s>Wayne, I'm plumb perplexed, expect you are more so. That is .013" difference in good and bad journal. We really don't know what new crank is suppose to be. I do know these two things, if your bad journal is out of round a bearing won't last. 2nd thing I know is if you have over .003" clearance on either bearing it won't last. You have not stated whether you checked the bad journal at intervals around the clock to see if it has a flat spot. Also, you need to check clearance with the plasti gauge. You can't just feel it and judge it to be ok.<e>
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/e></QUOTE>
I got a reply from Aaron and the diameter on the crank pin is 49.95mm to 49.96mm with replacement of49.92.My manual is way off on these values @ 54.036 to 54.050 with replacementy @ 53.91 mm. I thimnk I am goinng to pull the crankshaft and have it worked on @ a machine shop locally to see if it is sink or swim time.
 
Well, according to your measurements Your "bad" journal is about .040" undersized. Hoye only lists .010" and .030" undersized inserts. There may be a .040" out there somewhere. According to your measurements your "good" journal is .027" undersized. Could be possible you missed the measurement .003" and it is actually .030" undersized. I wish I could put my hands on it cause I'm really not helping you, just doing as Carey says, blah blah blah.
 
Does the engine # in your manual match your engine #? Are your old bearings the same thickness as your new ones? Does this look like it might have been a VN recon machine, (with mis-matched engine parts)?
 
Sorry I have not been following this topic for a while. The YM1500 does not have an English service manual. The YM195 is considered to be the closest model with an English manual and is the one we send out. One of the few differences is the crankshaft dimensions but they are off enough that it should not be dangerous.

We were able to find the 49.95mm crank dimensions from a Deere tractor that used that same bearing set so it should be correct.

The oil pan gasket is still a little mystery. We are working on it right now. It looks like after 10+ years of doing this we have just found that some of the older 1500 tractors take a different oil plate &amp; gasket.
 
Is there any trick to getting the drag rod loose from the pitman arm. It says tap both sides of the pitman arm simultainiously and it is suppose to come out??
 
I have the motor completely out and the gear cover off. How do I get the key out of the crankshaft so I can get it out of the motor?? Looks like it might take a small bolt since there are threads in the middle of the key but I am not sure what size or threads to use. Any ideas???

I like to never got the gear cover off due to the govenor on the front of the gear cover being mounted there. I have a mess right now and hope I can get it all back together and running.
 
<QUOTE author="wayne c"><s>
</s>I have the motor completely out and the gear cover off. How do I get the key out of the crankshaft so I can get it out of the motor?? Looks like it might take a small bolt since there are threads in the middle of the key but I am not sure what size or threads to use. Any ideas???

I like to never got the gear cover off due to the govenor on the front of the gear cover being mounted there. I have a mess right now and hope I can get it all back together and running.<e>
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/s>threaded key<e>[/url]</e>[/URL] you are referring to? you should not have to remove a key to remove the crankshaft.
 
<QUOTE author="Norm"><s>
</s><QUOTE author="wayne c"><s>
</s>I have the motor completely out and the gear cover off. How do I get the key out of the crankshaft so I can get it out of the motor?? Looks like it might take a small bolt since there are threads in the middle of the key but I am not sure what size or threads to use. Any ideas???

I like to never got the gear cover off due to the govenor on the front of the gear cover being mounted there. I have a mess right now and hope I can get it all back together and running.<e>
Click to expand...
/s>threaded key<e>[/url]</e>[/URL] you are referring to? you should not have to remove a key to remove the crankshaft.<e>
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/e></QUOTE>


It is the one for the fan belt pulley. It is hitting the oil shield washer so the crank will not come out.
 
Well if anybody else ever asks it is an M4 - 70 metric bolt that fits the key. Did a little quessing till I found something that fit. The vise grips did not do a thing. With the bolt it came out with no effort at all. The key for the crank gear is the same setup. I now have the crank shaft out and going to a machine shop to see if they can rebuild or turn it.
 
I have a question that may seem dumb but here goes. When the rod bearings say they are .010 or .030 undersized is that in mm or inches. Would that mean that the std crankshaft is 49.96 mm that it could be turned down to 49.95 or 49.93mm respectively? Trying to figure out if my crank can be turned down or it needs built up. Turning down is much cheaper than building up. What would the minimum diameter be?
 
.010" and .030" is inches. 49.96mm = 1.96692" = standard, .010" undersized = 49.7057mm = 1.95692", .030" undersized = 49.1977mm = 1.93692 = (minimum diameter)
 
any pointers on replacing the front main bearing. The crtankshaft looks fine at the journal but the bearing looks rough to me. Do not want to replace it if not necessary. If it has to be replaced how do I get it out and a new one in without tearing anything up?
 
<QUOTE author="winston"><s>
</s>.010" and .030" is inches. 49.96mm = 1.96692" = standard, .010" undersized = 49.7057mm = 1.95692", .030" undersized = 49.1977mm = 1.93692 = (minimum diameter)<e>
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Thank you for the clairification. I might just make it
 
This post is getting longer and longer so I'm not sure but believe you said you have a manual. The information on removing and installing the main bearing should be in there. I'm guessing there is a puller type tool for removing and installing. I wouldn't doubt with a little southern engineering you could probably improvise a bolt and whatever to do the same. You would need to get the correct sizes from Aaron since your manual is incorrect. You also have a couple of thrust bearings you need to take a close look at. Aaron could probably provide you with correct thrust clearance also. One thing you might consider is taking your block down to the shop that is doing your crankshaft and let them check all your clearances. You have gone a long ways here so you want to make sure you get things back right.
 
<QUOTE author="winston"><s>
</s>This post is getting longer and longer so I'm not sure but believe you said you have a manual. The information on removing and installing the main bearing should be in there. I'm guessing there is a puller type tool for removing and installing. I wouldn't doubt with a little southern engineering you could probably improvise a bolt and whatever to do the same. You would need to get the correct sizes from Aaron since your manual is incorrect. You also have a couple of thrust bearings you need to take a close look at. Aaron could probably provide you with correct thrust clearance also. One thing you might consider is taking your block down to the shop that is doing your crankshaft and let them check all your clearances. You have gone a long ways here so you want to make sure you get things back right.<e>
Click to expand...
/e></QUOTE>

I am taking your advice and taking the block to the shop mainly to get the front and rear main bearings pressed out and replaced. I quess I am not a good southern engineer because I was afraid I would break something trying to get them out. Sorry I ask so many questions but if you're not sure it pays to ask sometimes.I have gotten alot of good tips from you guys from unsticking the injector for removal to removing the pitman arm. Thanks for all yuor help!!!
 
Well I finally got everything back together and I do mean everything. I replaced everything other than the cam shaft and the cylinder sleeves. It cranks with no effort and runs great with ouil pressure around 50psi. I still see faint white smoke from the blowby tube but no oil coming out so I am hoping I am ok. Thanks to everyone for your information and encouragement. Looks like the oil pump was the main culprit withnoil pressure @ 15-20 psi before rebuild.
 
Well congratulations! Glad to hear a success story. Might have been a bad pump but also could have been the excessive clearances. No matter now, great oil pressure.
 
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