New Shop Build

For doing vehicle restorations you need the equivalent of a 3 bay garage in clear space.

Vito
 
These replies with suggestions really is awesome! Just what I was looking for.....everybody giving suggestions and brainstorming. Here is a quick sketch I am working on now and not finished with. The size of the building can't change unfortunately. I'm noticing that as I lay things out, it is filling up fast; so space saving and storage ideas are a priority. I have a 1974 3/4 ton IH 200 pickup LWB that I mocked up as worst case to see if it could be parked in there at some point. Most likely use that garage space for small projects and "clean" area workbench work but will have a garage door so space is multi-use. No designation for office/desk yet.View attachment 96309View attachment 96310
the way you drew that up with the garage across the front the second level above that would be exellent. I think you could get away with 16 ft ceiling if you are not a tall person.
 
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the way you drew that up with the garage across the front the second level above that would be exellent. I think you could get away with 16 ft ceiling if you are not a tall person.
My thoughts too but given that I’m in a neighborhood , it’s a wood post structure and will have 9 ft tall walls. Hoping for a little attic storage over that area but it might be tight
 
These replies with suggestions really is awesome! Just what I was looking for.....everybody giving suggestions and brainstorming. Here is a quick sketch I am working on now and not finished with. The size of the building can't change unfortunately. I'm noticing that as I lay things out, it is filling up fast; so space saving and storage ideas are a priority. I have a 1974 3/4 ton IH 200 pickup LWB that I mocked up as worst case to see if it could be parked in there at some point. Most likely use that garage space for small projects and "clean" area workbench work but will have a garage door so space is multi-use. No designation for office/desk yet.View attachment 96309View attachment 96310
Great planning ..... personally I would trim 6" off the workbench and make it two feet deep. The deeper it is the better the chance of it ending up as another shelf for "stuff" ...... the problem being the shelf in this case takes up valuable floor space. Just my $0.02 ....
 
Mezzanine
Think you’ll find the building too small with a separate car room

Assuming 10 ft tall inside I’d go with a 14 ft wide by 9 high door on the 25 foot side and a 8x7 door on the 35 ft side and a regular door so you don’t let out the heat or cool air. Insulation helps with heat/ac

For the divider I’d just hand a tarp separating the car area if you have too. You can adjust and build a wall later if you really need it
 
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I would skip the partition wall and consider a sliding curtain mounted on the ceiling that you could partition off only when you need it. It would allow for a much more open space. Also put locking rollers on the desk and other items to move out of the way. If you were doing something that was making dust and debris you could wheel the desk over to the other bay and pull the curtain closed.
 
I would build it with 14 to 15 ft walls and put in a second floor. The property taxes are based on square footage not cubic feet.
I planned on plenty of ventilation. Eve vents and ridge vents.
Windows all the way down both sides for plenty of natural light.
I built workbenches the full length on both sides. With 2 shelves above the work benches.
10 X10 overhead door.
Keep the second floor a secret?
 
My thoughts too but given that I’m in a neighborhood , it’s a wood post structure and will have 9 ft tall walls. Hoping for a little attic storage over that area but it might be tight
that would be tight. Might have to figure out a lift system to have shelves on cables and pullies to just let down when needed with power winch to return to the ceiling. not sure why 9ft walls would be the max but different areas have different rules. If you had a walk way that you could let down for you to walk on with attic shelves mounted to both sides you could get at the stuff. I have a 3 ft crawl space under my house that I thought would be good for storage. Problem is getting in there. I have a 10X20 basement under a 30X60 house. the only part of the crawl space I use is the 3 ft in on the 3 sides of the basement area. to far to reach further and crawling in there is not an option when we get older.
 
Put a grinder on a stand that you can move it around. Frees up valuable wall and bench space. A cuttoff saw /table along a wall. Set so a 20 stick can be cut. Welding table on wheels. Make sure to make up some grinding curtains.Put the welder close to the outside door so you can weld outside if needed.If you dont already have one,you're gonna want a large roll around tool box.As said,a small room built on to the side for the office will save valuable shop space.
 
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that would be tight. Might have to figure out a lift system to have shelves on cables and pullies to just let down when needed with power winch to return to the ceiling. not sure why 9ft walls would be the max but different areas have different rules. If you had a walk way that you could let down for you to walk on with attic shelves mounted to both sides you could get at the stuff. I have a 3 ft crawl space under my house that I thought would be good for storage. Problem is getting in there. I have a 10X20 basement under a 30X60 house. the only part of the crawl space I use is the 3 ft in on the 3 sides of the basement area. to far to reach further and crawling in there is not an option when we get older.
good ideas! my posts are that high max.
 
Great planning ..... personally I would trim 6" off the workbench and make it two feet deep. The deeper it is the better the chance of it ending up as another shelf for "stuff" ...... the problem being the shelf in this case takes up valuable floor space. Just my $0.02 ....
Sounds good to me, but my thoughts were to have it that deep to have as a place to reassemble painted parts and work on stuff and have enough room to maneuver it around. Just a guess on the size.
 
Put a grinder on a stand that you can move it around. Frees up valuable wall and bench space. A cuttoff saw /table along a wall. Set so a 20 stick can be cut. Welding table on wheels. Make sure to make up some grinding curtains.Put the welder close to the outside door so you can weld outside if needed.If you dont already have one,you're gonna want a large roll around tool box.As said,a small room built on to the side for the office will save valuable shop space.
Made the decision to do just that. Going to add an 8 x 20 Lean-to room on the long side (right hand front) for office area and closet
 
Forgetabout about the wall divider. Someday it will it be cold and windy and you need to work a vehicle on a creeper you can back in a at angle then you can move around on the floor with out hitting a wall.
 
These replies with suggestions really is awesome! Just what I was looking for.....everybody giving suggestions and brainstorming. Here is a quick sketch I am working on now and not finished with. The size of the building can't change unfortunately. I'm noticing that as I lay things out, it is filling up fast; so space saving and storage ideas are a priority. I have a 1974 3/4 ton IH 200 pickup LWB that I mocked up as worst case to see if it could be parked in there at some point. Most likely use that garage space for small projects and "clean" area workbench work but will have a garage door so space is multi-use. No designation for office/desk yet.View attachment 96309View attachment 96310
Don't see that as working with a bench behind a pickup. First take a foot off of the exterior measurements to allow for the walls gets it to 24'. Measure your truck bumper to hitch and it is likely over 20' and maybe 21' or 22'. Measure the width of the truck mirror to mirror. Measure the width of the truck with doors open to get how much parking space you need on the sides. Size the overhead door so old and half blind people can easily drive in without clipping the mirrors. Adding a foot on each of the mirror width will give you the door size of 9' to 10'. Installing the door with 1.5' to 2.5' of space will allow open truck doors without banging the walls. Practice driving in and out of a garage now and you will want a couple extra feet on front and back to easily clear the door and front wall. You can mark the wall, add a 4x4 wheel stop on floor, and hang a tennis ball from the ceiling to hit the windshield when you have driven in far enough. Your depth perception gets worse with age.

I think you will find you want all 24' of length, a 9' to 10' door, and 2' of wall on left side of garage door with same on the right unless there is no wall there between the other space to comfortably park your truck.

So, no room for work bench which wouldn't have allowed room to stand and work any way with the likelihood that grinder and cutting torch spray would land on the hood of your truck.

My humble 1cent worth. Used to be 2 cents worth before inflation.

Please post back with what your truck measurements are.
 
Forgetabout about the wall divider. Someday it will it be cold and windy and you need to work a vehicle on a creeper you can back in a at angle then you can move around on the floor with out hitting a wall.
I'm still considering not doing that but IDK. Walls can be built last thing.
 
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