Rear weight.

soupkid

Member
Im going to build a 3 pth counter weight for my IH 484.
There just isn't enough weight on the back end.
Im planning on using a 45 gallon drum filled with rocks and cement.
Should I make it 2 pt swinging or 3 pt fixed.
 
You want it to be higher than the bottom of the tractor so it is not the point of limitation when backing over a small ledge like a curb or other samll ledges or plow furrows.
 
Cast some kind of drawbar into it. You will always want to pull something without having to remove and replace the weight. Leave the top empty for several inches, makes a good place to carry chains and miscellaneous tools. Cut a couple drain holes in that , so it won’t fill up with water. Finally, put a short chain or ring, to give a way to lift it with a loader when it isn’t attached to the tractor.

It’s also a good idea to arrange some sort of rigid anchor, so it’s not constantly loading the three point hitch. Chains to the top link mount on the tractor work well.
 
I had my welder put together a 3 pt drawbar with some angle irons to make the 3 pt connections, plus a chunk of 2" tube out the back for a receiver. Then made a box of 2x12's around the whole thing and poured it full of cement. Worked great. I eventually built a box to sit on top of it from 1" rough sawn to hold chains, tools, etc. Worked great. This was for a small 26 hp Kubota.
 
Fabricate a barrel using a regular lower link drawbar and build it for 3 point mounting per SAE specs and dimensions. Put the lower link through the front third of the barrel, not the middle. Don't ask how I know. As previously suggested, put a drawbar through the barrel filled close to the top with concrete (It's about 150 pounds per cubic feet if you want to do some calculations.), leaving 3 inches or so at the top for chains, etc. A receiver to accept a 2" drawbar would serve the same purpose.
 
I make mine out of concrete, 3 pt.
I have to use the loader on my terramite to lift the ballast so I can connect it to my 3 pt.
There is no way I can move 1200 pounds.
I don't have a fast hitch. I don't have a 2 pt swing arm,
Some might want to make a dolly to move it you have concrete floors in your barn.
Think about how you are going to connect it to your tractor.
My kubota weight is less than a 55 gallon drum and I can't move it to line up with my 3 pt without hanging with a chain off the terramite loader.
On page two is the similar question about ballast weights.
A rear ballast will remove weight off the front wheels and front axle.
Adding rear tire weights will not transfer off the front end, only rear ballast can.
 

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I just bought one from an online auction for 40 bucks. Angle iron with concrete. It weight in at 800 lbs. I am going to use it on my wifes 30 hp kubota that has a loader and is a bit light on he rear.
 
Loaded tired never need alignment to hook up and never need unhooking . Never in the way and always ready to go. I like my loaded tires on a loader and am not so sure I don't like them on field tractors since they get a better foot print from the liquid causing the tire to flatten out a bit when on the ground. Unlike an unloaded tire with weights on them. I have close to the same weight on as the loaded tire would be. About 900LBS on an18.4-38 tire loaded would be close to the same weight without the weights on it.
 
3 pt of course.

Don’t quite fill it, leave the top 5-6 inches of the barrel open a handy place to throw a log chain, tools, etc.

Put a several inch pipe in it vertically before filling it, a place to slip a rake or shovel or hoe handle into and take along.

Put a 2 inch receiver out the back. Or any type of hitch. Yes they will make the barrel a bit bigger and back into stuff with it, but man it will be handy to have a hitch available without having to take the barrel off!

Stay chains from the bottom or lower three point arms area up to the tractor upper link so the weight of the barrel is resting on the fixed chains, not on the tractor hydraulics.

Paul
 
Why are you doing this?

Why not use a tractor big enough to do the job without having to hang weight on it and force it to do something it was never designed to do?
 
Properly weighting a tractor fr the task at hand is a normal, expected task.

Look at all the factory wheel weights and suitcase weights and brackets out there.

Have you ever experienced wheel hop? Gets very annoying when doing tillage and the tractor isn’t balanced right!

My 210 hp NH came with thousands of pounds of cast iron on the front of it.

The TW20 has 500 lbs of inner wheel weights on the rear axle.

Tractors are very versatile machines. Put a loader on the front. Put a 3pt implement on the back. Some models come in 2wd or 4wd. Do heavy tillage in black dirt. Mow hay with it. Every task has a different ideal weight needed for both the front and rear axles.

We set up a loader tractor with no weight in front and heavy weights on the back.

I got a 3pt sprayer this year, I have 3 weights up front, added a rock box also and filled with rocks to counterbalance. That tractor is often disc mowing, it also has liquid filled rear tires. For the disc mower both the front weights and the filled tires are needed for stability.

I’m looking for rear weights for my WorkMaster 75, I can lift the rear end up with the loader, not a good thing. I use the tractor to tow stuff way way too often to go with a 3pt weight, altho that would be an option if I weren’t pulling hay trailers while loading round bales and the like.

It’s normal to weight a tractor to properly balance it for the task.

Paul
 
Why are you doing this?

Why not use a tractor big enough to do the job without having to hang weight on it and force it to do something it was never designed to do?
Adding a rear counterbalance weight on 3pt hitch on tractors that have frt end loaders not only makes lifting heavier weights with FEL much safer BUT the counterbalance also relieves stress applied to front axle & frt tires much more than rear wheel weights &/or liquid ballast in rear tires.
 
Properly weighting a tractor fr the task at hand is a normal, expected task.

Look at all the factory wheel weights and suitcase weights and brackets out there.

Have you ever experienced wheel hop? Gets very annoying when doing tillage and the tractor isn’t balanced right!

My 210 hp NH came with thousands of pounds of cast iron on the front of it.

The TW20 has 500 lbs of inner wheel weights on the rear axle.

Tractors are very versatile machines. Put a loader on the front. Put a 3pt implement on the back. Some models come in 2wd or 4wd. Do heavy tillage in black dirt. Mow hay with it. Every task has a different ideal weight needed for both the front and rear axles.

We set up a loader tractor with no weight in front and heavy weights on the back.

I got a 3pt sprayer this year, I have 3 weights up front, added a rock box also and filled with rocks to counterbalance. That tractor is often disc mowing, it also has liquid filled rear tires. For the disc mower both the front weights and the filled tires are needed for stability.

I’m looking for rear weights for my WorkMaster 75, I can lift the rear end up with the loader, not a good thing. I use the tractor to tow stuff way way too often to go with a 3pt weight, altho that would be an option if I weren’t pulling hay trailers while loading round bales and the like.

It’s normal to weight a tractor to properly balance it for the task.

Paul
I've purchased wheel weights from Lonestar Weights and Castings with good results.
 
Im going to build a 3 pth counter weight for my IH 484.
There just isn't enough weight on the back end.
Im planning on using a 45 gallon drum filled with rocks and cement.
Should I make it 2 pt swinging or 3 pt fixed.
Adding a rear counterbalance weight on 3pt hitch on tractors that have frt end loaders not only makes lifting heavier weights with FEL much safer BUT the counterbalance also relieves stress applied to front axle & frt tires much more than rear wheel weights &/or liquid ballast in rear tires.
Agreed, but I don't see where he says anything about a loader. Adding just water or washer fluid to the rear tires will add 700lbs (900 for CL or Beet Juice) to the rear without adding stress to the rear bearings or changing the center of gravity.
 
Agreed, but I don't see where he says anything about a loader. Adding just water or washer fluid to the rear tires will add 700lbs (900 for CL or Beet Juice) to the rear without adding stress to the rear bearings or changing the center of gravity.
Looking at his past threads, he has recently posted before about having an Allied 394 loader on a 484. The reason he wanted to add weight would have been more meaningful if he had included, he was looking at adding a rear weight because it has a loader on it, at the start of this thread.
 
This is a new post about the 484 with the Allied loader and that he is going to make a counter weight from cement and a barrel for it .That is the reason for not mentioning a loader he already did that in a previous post . IT probably got shuffled down to far to see without hunting for it.
 
Sorry about the loader confusion, tractor has a loader.
As far as loading the tires, cost is the reason.
I was talking to my tire guy and each tire (16.9×28) holds about 44 gallons of fluid and my choices are limited.
Rim guard would be $350-$400 a tire, wwf would be in the $300 range a tire, water is not an option for me.
I can build my counter weight for about $100.
 
Agreed, but I don't see where he says anything about a loader. Adding just water or washer fluid to the rear tires will add 700lbs (900 for CL or Beet Juice) to the rear without adding stress to the rear bearings or changing the center of gravity.
Well what implement would you guess besides a front end loader would require extra weight to keep rear wheels on the ground??????? I just noticed soupkid posted his tractor indeed has a FEL so that mystery is solved.
 
You want to have it set up for both three point hitch for ease of mounting and a drawbar out the back for pulling.
I thought that it would go without saying that you make the holes in the barrel for your cross hitch bar at a height that allows you to set it down on the ground and pick it up again with the lift , but then I saw that it needed to be said.
 
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