856 delco 10si conversion questions

[Farmall m farmer]

I want to put a 10si on it but the original plug was gone and somebody just put spade connectors and they were unhooked so how do I hook it up I found a thread on here but it was confusing to me what is the best way to hook it up pictures would be great

 

[Jim.ME]

The picture below shows where the wires go. The switched excitation wire needs a diode, indicator light, or resistor in it if the power is coming from the same switch terminal as the ignition or a fuel shut off solenoid gets power from. Otherwise, back feed from the alternator to the ignition switch could prevent engine shutdown.

 

[used red MN]

The switched excitation wire needs a diode, indicator light, or resistor in it if the power is coming from the same switch terminal as the ignition or a fuel shut off solenoid gets power from.

(Jim with apologies) You won’t have to worry about this because on those IHs you kill the fuel by moving the throttle left over the detent to the stop position, nothing electrical involved. Connecting the original GEN dash lamp to excite circuit on the 1 terminal gives you a charge/no charge indicator. The site I used with all the IH wiring diagrams got boo-boo’d and hasn’t been fixed to my knowledge so I can’t help you beyond that. The early ones had generators and the later had Delco 10DN alternators, both required a voltage regulator. Your two spaded wires may be for a 10DN and coming from the regulator. The lamp wire goes down to the regulator as well, it’s up under/behind the fuel tank or inside under the dash.

 

[the tractior vet]

The picture below shows where the wires go. The switched excitation wire needs a diode, indicator light, or resistor in it if the power is coming from the same switch terminal as the ignition or a fuel shut off solenoid gets power from. Otherwise, back feed from the alternator to the ignition switch could prevent engine shutdown.


View attachment 156594

 

[the tractior vet]

wrong alt . for a 56 seires tractor that is what was used on the 66 series . The plug goes in from the rear . and the two clors for the wires should be yellow and black . But tonight don't ask me where they go with four fingers of C/R over ice what side the yellow goes left or right . They used the same Alt. that ya found on every Chevy/ GM built back in 68-71 , same alt same reg. Yea i am that flippen old / Fantastic years to be young .

 

[Jim.ME]

wrong alt . for a 56 seires tractor that is what was used on the 66 series . The plug goes in from the rear . and the two clors for the wires should be yellow and black . But tonight don't ask me where they go with four fingers of C/R over ice what side the yellow goes left or right . They used the same Alt. that ya found on every Chevy/ GM built back in 68-71 , same alt same reg. Yea i am that flippen old / Fantastic years to be young .

I realize the I posted a picture of the "wrong" alternator for the tractor, but if you read his first post of the thread, he posted he wanted to put a 10SI on it. I posted a picture of the alternator he asked about.

Did you read and understand his first post, before chastising me for the wrong alternator? Perhaps "four fingers of C/R over ice" affected your understanding of the post.

 

[matthies]

But won't he have to do something with the wires at the regulator if this has an external one ? I know some of the delcos that plugged in the back before the top plug ones were internally regulated but far and few. thanks

 

[used red MN]

But won't he have to do something with the wires at the regulator if this has an external one ? I know some of the delcos that plugged in the back before the top plug ones were internally regulated but far and few. thanks

Not sure who’s reply your addressing. Jim’s reply 2 does inform the OP what is needed for the connections for a 10si install. I added in reply 3 that only a keyed source for the excite circuit (terminal 1) works and does not require an anti-feed back device. Whether the OP’s existing wires (or at least the required excite circuit) are plug and play would be up to the OP. If he is replacing an original 10DN, yes he would need to change the wiring from stock.

 

[Jim.ME]

But won't he have to do something with the wires at the regulator if this has an external one ? I know some of the delcos that plugged in the back before the top plug ones were internally regulated but far and few. thanks

If the original was a 10DN (externally regulated with the plug straight in the back) the plug and wiring would be different. I answered the question of where the wires go on a 10SI with a picture. Without the info of what alternator is being replaced it is hard to say if wiring changes are needed or not.

 

[Farmall m farmer]

I used the existing exciting wire that comes from the dummy light and it’s hooked to the number 1 terminal than made a jumper wire between the battery lug on the back of alternator to the number two on the alternator and it works fine and hooked up the ground

 

[used red MN]

I used the existing exciting wire that comes from the dummy light and it’s hooked to the number 1 terminal than made a jumper wire between the battery lug on the back of alternator to the number two on the alternator and it works fine and hooked up the ground

Excellent work! It appears in the end that C/R has nothing to do with this thread.

 

[Duner Wi]

But won't he have to do something with the wires at the regulator if this has an external one ? I know some of the delcos that plugged in the back before the top plug ones were internally regulated but far and few. thanks

Yes he would have to do something at the regulator if removed alternator was a 10DN which has an external regulator. It is fun watching answers to questions that are economical with pertinent information.

 

[Farmall m farmer]

The removed alternator was a 10dn what do I have to do at the voltage regulator exactly? Do I unplug the plug going to it?

 

[Jim.ME]

It would have been helpful if you said you were changing from a 10DN to start with, I would have included more info. You can unplug the regulator to eliminate the regulator, but you need to change some wiring as well.

How many wires at the regulator plug. Picture of the regulator with plug and wires?

The indicator light wire should be on the 4th terminal (far right) it now needs to connect to the wire going to the #1 terminal of the 10SI to excite it.

You need to make a jumper to go between the #2 spade on the 10SI and the alternator battery post. The # 3 terminal wire on the regulator should be coming from a power source, tape it up so it can't short out. The regulator F (first on the left) and #1 wires can be removed.

 

[Duner Wi]

Number 3 is remote sense wire and goes to terminal 2 . By jumping from Bat + on alternator to terminal 2 you do away with h a feature of remote sense. You are sensing at the alternator and not the optimum which is close to the battery. Delco service litature bears this out. Faster replenishment of not fully charged battery and longer battery life in fleet service.

 

[the tractior vet]

I want to put a 10si on it but the original plug was gone and somebody just put spade connectors and they were unhooked so how do I hook it up I found a thread on here but it was confusing to me what is the best way to hook it up pictures would be great

the wiring harness used on the 66 series tractor verses are way different since the 56 series uses the external reg. and 66 uses and internal reg. . So with out setting down and looking in my bookto see where and How to Mickey MOUSE it with out ending up shorting out and having a fire or sending the alt into full field i am not getting into this . I replace with what came on them and if it needs a new plug then i install a replacement with the correct wire ends . much easier faster . and sinc3e i have not done one in two years i forget what color wire goes where . And to be correct this means i need to go out to the truck and get the book out and see what color goes where . this is where the problem comes in for the past three weeks now i have not been able to walk vary well with out something to hold on to or bounce off of . So Walking out to the truck is not and option at this time. . one org wire is yellow and the other is either black or brown. Blue is the main feed . Some use a black wire as a ground to alt case . you can get new plugs as i carry both stiles on the truck . I get the ones that are just blank bare plugs with out pig tails so i can maintain wire color and use the good heavy duty wire ends.

 

[Jim.ME]

Number 3 is remote sense wire and goes to terminal 2 . By jumping from Bat + on alternator to terminal 2 you do away with h a feature of remote sense. You are sensing at the alternator and not the optimum which is close to the battery. Delco service litature bears this out. Faster replenishment of not fully charged battery and longer battery life in fleet service.

# 2 was the remote sensing between the regulator and the 10DN alternator. #3 was a power wire to the regulator. #3 can be joined to the #2 wire at the regulator and the #2 wire end from the 10DN can go to the #2 spade terminal of the 10SI alternator for sensing, if one wants. It is not ideal but common practice on simple tractor system conversions is to use the jumper between the alternator battery post and the #2 spade. Either works and I agree the closer to the battery voltage is being sensed it can be a more accurate check of the system.




In post #10 reported he had the excite wire hooked up to the #1 terminal and had made a jumper between the #2 spade and battery post and it works fine.

 

[Duner Wi]

My question would be why intentionally have 10si be less efficient than the factory installed 10dn.
I can understand a 6 volt conversion to 12 volts negative ground getting tractor to charge better than with 6 volt We have a charging system that works. That is all we want. He has the wire right there ,hook it to terminal 2 and be done with it. I have 3 10dn in service, they work with original Delco points regulators ,one has new and improved electronic external regulator that works too. Less performance if it is adequate is somewhat understandable, I myself like longer battery life as Delco litature points out in fleet application. I recently got 22 years out of battery with 10si properly wired. Batteries don't seem to be getting less expensive so I like as long a service life as possible. Everyone knows remote sense from Battery+ to terminal 2 works . They don't seem to know or care it is not the best source of senseing voltage according to Delco Service litature for best performance and longer battery life.